Jump to content
Zr2USA.com
Sign in to follow this  
Blue BlaZeR2 93

Rough country 2 inch install

Recommended Posts

Hey guys ordered the rough country 2 inch and the superlift add a leafs for my new 2001 blazer2. Will be updating later with picks of before and after and thoughts on the lift. 

It's currently all stock and sagging 1-2 inches in the rear and after 206k miles I would say it's expected. It's a 5 speed with the iron front diff which I don't really want to cut but I will not sink $2k into a lift kit for a  vehicle not even worth twice that. 

Overall big plans down the road for a 2 inch BL and 33's but while I'm still driving it everyday it's just getting the rcx 2 inch for now. Also bought it with brand new yokahoma geolander at's I need to wear down. 

 

Phase 2 will I'll come before the end of the year and I will be upgrading the bump stops from a full size and doing the one ton idler and flaming river u-joint along with a front end rebuild only thing bad right now is an upper ball joint and either the rag joint or steering box is sloppy. 

Should have everything here and installed with a lot of pics in the next week or 2.

IMG_0171.JPG

Edited by Blue BlaZeR2 93

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A couple suggestions for you on that suspension kit.

The rear shocks are stiff AF, you may not like them. I'm still running my factory bilsteins in the rear. The front shocks are actually good.

I replaced the bump stops that came with the kit with these: Energy Suspension 9.9117G 1" Tall Flat Head Bump Stop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN7CVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZmAszbX4GD81M

The ones in the kit allow just a little too much drop and can bind up the CV joints and cause wheel to upper A-arm interference at full steering lock. Drags wheel weights off unless your wheels have the weights on the inner dia.

Otherwise it's not a bad kit for the money. I've had zero issues with mine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the heads up I'm expecting a stiff ride the first 6-12 months with the add a leaf and rough country shocks. I had the 2.5 kit on my 05 1500 and it took about 6-8 months for the shocks to "loosen up". Also hoping the extra weight in the rear of the blazer will keep the stiffness down though I may haul a few hundred pounds of something back there for a few months to help wear everything in. 

 

What would be the advangtage of those bump stops you listed over the progressive style mounts from the rear of a full size?

 

also if the shocks are too rough still down the road Supreme Suspensions has listed on their site "longer" bilsteins for a torsion key lift but I'm wondering if they are actually longer or just advertising as that and selling the stock size. Do the z's have longer shocks than a stock s10? If so I'm wondering if they are listing zr2 spec shocks as "longer" ones for their s10 leveling kits.

Edited by Blue BlaZeR2 93

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good, could use some rear wheel spacers. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the kit in today everything looks good, control arms have a couple of small places where the powder coat is trying to chip but not a big deal. Ordered the steering stabilized, shock boots, and their torsion bar tool as well. Still waiting on the superlift add a leafs and when I get off a day off work I can finally start to the lift. 

 

Took the skid plates off the off the front today and power washed the undercarriage and am seriously impressed with how little rust this thing has. All the z's around here are usually rotted and this thing has over 200k and very little rust let alone scale and rot. Started soaking everything in PB blaster. From what I can tell the shackles are the only thing not rubber that actually could used replacing. Also noticed I don't have a hitch, could have swore it had one 🤔 Guess it's a good excuse to buy a new one down the road from a 94-97 after the body lift if I can go that long without needing one.

 

IMG_0187.JPG

Edited by Blue BlaZeR2 93

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/20/2017 at 4:49 PM, Blue BlaZeR2 93 said:

Thanks for the heads up I'm expecting a stiff ride the first 6-12 months with the add a leaf and rough country shocks. I had the 2.5 kit on my 05 1500 and it took about 6-8 months for the shocks to "loosen up". Also hoping the extra weight in the rear of the blazer will keep the stiffness down though I may haul a few hundred pounds of something back there for a few months to help wear everything in. 

 

What would be the advangtage of those bump stops you listed over the progressive style mounts from the rear of a full size?

 

also if the shocks are too rough still down the road Supreme Suspensions has listed on their site "longer" bilsteins for a torsion key lift but I'm wondering if they are actually longer or just advertising as that and selling the stock size. Do the z's have longer shocks than a stock s10? If so I'm wondering if they are listing zr2 spec shocks as "longer" ones for their s10 leveling kits.

Well the fullsize stops are for the lower arms ( If we are talking about the same thing), the ones I am talking about are for the upper arms. The stops in the kit are very thin and allow a lot of suspension droop, its just a bit much.

The shocks that come in the kit are longer. These are the lengths per Rough Country:

ZR2 RC Lift Kit Shock Lengths:
  The front shock is 19.7 extended and 12.4 compressed
  The rear shock is 26 extended and 15.5 compressed
  as measured from the center of each eye

Also, just in case you was to need it: Ball joint in the A-Arms: Moog K6540

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info Jderek I'll have to put those on my list. Went ahead and started the lift tonight but had to stop because I don't have a 35 mm socket. Going to try and pick one up tomorrow along with some locktite. Got the old shocks and control arms out so far and spray painted the frame. Looks decent for not being able to wire wheel it. Torsion bars have been out before I think because they had grease on them and I slid them by hand to get the keys out. 

 

My sway bar end links bolts bolts were seized together. Some one had tried to remove them before because the nuts were gone off both sides. I ended up having to use a sawzall to cut them off. 

 

Starting measurements from fender to floor were 36" on both front fenders and drivers rear was 35" and pass side 34.5"

hopefully the misses will let me work on tomorrow for a few hours and I can get the front lift all done. 

 

Reading all the horror stories about replacing shackles is making me nervous about doing the rear. Also never have done shackles or an add a leaf before only blocks so it will be a learning curve at first.

Edited by Blue BlaZeR2 93

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Add a leafs came in today they are longer than I thought they would be which is a pleasant surprise. Looks like I should be able to put them right under the main leaf. Also picked up a 36 mm socket, some locktite, and new sway bar end links. Hopefully going to be able to start working on it again in a few hours.

 

pic of the leaves 

 

IMG_0188.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today I dropped the lower CA's and pulled the cv shafts and diff. Then cut the diff and put the new bracket on and reinstalled the diff. Dropping that differential was the single most aggravating thing I've done in years. Tried to save myself some work by not dropping the steering linkage but I was a fool. It would have saved me at least an hour and a lot of grief. I also bent the lower bracket out of the way and bending it back without a way to heat it up was tough. Ended have a buddy come over to help me get it back in. I honestly think it's impossible for an average to do that alone. Of course had i dropped the steering it would have been a lot easier. Didn't take any pics and I'm sorry but I was pissed off for 5 hours straight at that thing. I'm probably 7-8 hours total in on this already and still have about 2 more to go on the front no idea how much trouble I will have with the back. I'm not getting in a hurry though either and trying to take my time and not make any mistake or break anything. 

 

Have to to pick up new bands to hold the cv boots on before I go any further and clean up the seating area on the boots and axles. Then I'll finally to get put all the shiny new parts on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I said in my first post that was planned for later on. Can't afford to do everything I want to do to the Z right now so I have to be patient... which is hard. Doesn't look like I'll be working on it today possibly tomorrow night after I get back from taking my daughter to the zoo. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Blue BlaZeR2 93 said:

Yeah I said in my first post that was planned for later on. Can't afford to do everything I want to do to the Z right now so I have to be patient... which is hard. Doesn't look like I'll be working on it today possibly tomorrow night after I get back from taking my daughter to the zoo. 

 

Ah, sry, I just kinda skimmed the thread and must have missed that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's my understanding that the differential bracket improves the cv angles.  Is this just when you have a lift kit installed or does it improve the angles on a stock setup also?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't have to crank the torsion bars to using the diff drop brackets but I would only recommend this is you are getting the whole kit and never planning on a real lift. Doing the diff drops bracket was a lot of hassle for the same cv angles as a 1-1.5 torsion crank while actually having your bars cranked 2-2.5 inches. If you have dreams of a 5 or 6 inch lift skip the rough country lift due to how involved it is for what little you gain. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No lift in my vehicle now or the future.  I was just wondering if the brackets helped in a stock scenario.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 hours ago, eshaw said:

It's my understanding that the differential bracket improves the cv angles.  Is this just when you have a lift kit installed or does it improve the angles on a stock setup also?

It will help with a stock setup if your planning to crank the bars a bit or install new keys and want to keep the CV angles in check. For those that want to use just lift keys, the diff brackets could/would help.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got everything finished up but the skid plates. Going to leave those off until I get new cv shafts in a few weeks both the inner boots are broke on mine. Doing the shackles went about how I expected lt. a lot of cussing and hammering but my bushing were still good and after turning the bolts and beating on them with the nut screwed on they all came free. PB blaster or any lube is a must if you wanna install this kit. The add a leaves went in fairly easy had to cut them down about 2 inches like I saw on another thread because I kept burning up drill bits trying to drill a new center pin hole. Final ride height is just over 38 inches up front and 38 and 37 and 3/4 on the rear fenders from the ground to top center. Everything should settle out I'm hoping within a 1/2 inch. Drove it to get aligned where it's currently at now and was pretty impressed with the ride I expected it to be a lot harsher. Felt kind of boaty over some bumps which is thought was weird but will report back in a few weeks with how it settles out. 

 

Here's a pic of the old vs new shackles and a pic of the shackle on the driver side I mutilated trying to get out before I finally caved and dropped the charcoal box which once again wish I would have just done from the get go

IMG_0191.JPG

IMG_0192.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Snapped a few quick pictures earlier. It doesn't look level but my driveway is everything but flat. Definitely added a nice noticeable amount of lift and overall I'm pretty satisfied with the product. I will note the rough country steering stabilizer was a super nice upgrade from the stock one with 200k+ miles. It firmed up the steering a lot and covered up some slop I was feeling. Really expected a harsher ride from cranking the bars and my previous experience with the cheap RC shocks but it rides about as nice as a stock full size which I think I almost prefer. 

 

IMG_0194.thumb.JPG.93bbcb3c770c7e17fb545d24885751b8.JPG

IMG_0196.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks good and the truck looks really clean.  Are you also planning different wheels and larger tires in the future?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks and yeah after I get married next year and that's all paid for I'm going to do a 2 inch body lift and wheels and tires.

 

other current plans for sure are

Receiver hitch

raptor line whole bottom side and flares

Tinting the windows

new headlights and black bowtie

hunter brush guard, receiver shackles and 20 inch light bar

2 flush mounts led pods in rear bumper

have local machine shop make some bushings for spare tire carrier and raptor line it

buy a bezel and install the double din pioneer I've had forever

front end will be rebuilt before I do 33's with one ton idler and flaming river u joint

Hidden winch mount and undecided winch

bravada shaft and tube if I can ever find one in a junk yard around here

 

 

 

For sure sure to be done before the end of the year will be full tune up, change all fluids, new cv shafts (soon) black bow tie, window tint, flush mounts in rear bumper and receiver shackles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took it out driving in the country yesterday and was not happy with the ride. Was on rough gravel roads and it about rattled my teeth out. On my 05 Silverado I had their leveling kit on I lowered the torsion bars down from 2.75-3 inches of lift to right at 2.5 and it rode 100 times smoother going to try that on the blazer from 2.25-2.5 down to 2 inches. Alignment guy wanted it back sometime this week to see how everything was holding so may be able to tweek it and run it up to his shop. Other than that been happy with kit so far. Might be looking into the "longer" bilsteins from supreme suspension next year when I redo my front end. On pavement it rides okay but I can't handle the ride on rough roads not to mention the interior squeaked bad enough before. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just by looking at the picture in your driveway I can tell you have your t-bars cranked too high!

I have a 2inch Superlift and a 2inch body lift on my Crew Cab ZR2 and I don't have that much space between the top of the tire and the wheelwell.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I got it stock and ended up around 2.25 inches higher than that. Definitely needs to come down to at least 2 inches. If it's anything like my 05 there's a small break over area in the crank that will give me back a lot of ride quality or make it a lot worse. I think I'm already riding that line so when I get a day I'll be able to have it aligned after I'm going to be lowering the front. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.