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Quick question. Anybody ever hooked up the positive cable of their winch to the 175 amp maxi fuse terminal to get the 12 volts to run it? I was thinking that this would be a good spot to "tap" but I'm no electrical guru by any stretch of the imagination.

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Not a good idea IMO. That fuse feeds the under hood fuse block. You blow it your motors dead.

Unless your connecting to the battery side, but that's still not great unless you upgrade the lead from the battery to help with the extra load while winching. Your really better off going straight to the battery using a marine type breaker similar to what I've got.Posted Image

 

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Thansk for the response. I'd planned on going to the battery side like you stated. The only difference I see between your breaker setup and the fuse in the truck is one's able to be reset and act like an isolator. Why would it need a larger cable to the fuse?

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Just keep in mind,amps draw of a warn 8k under full load straight pull could be over 430 amps. Keeping it as a separate system is recommended.

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What VANR said. A winch is a huge current hog. Even running without a load they pull a lot of current. A series wound DC motor is just that way. One thing that cant be stressed enough is ALL of your wire for one needs to be of good quality and all connections solid. If you connect to the battery side of that fuse, you put that short light duty cable between it and the battery into the winching circuit. Trust me, you WILL melt it the first time you pull hard with any winch over 2klbs. And like I said above, that WILL kill your motor, and all lighting in your rig.

Go to a ranch and home store and purchase some bulk welding wire rated at least 15-20% (min of 10%) over your winch full load current rating and make your primary positive and your ground out of that. And run everything directly from the battery. Ground included. That wire is super tough, flexible, and has a very low resistance (read Higher current capacity) per foot, and you can run a smaller gauge vs normal stranded wire.

Now if your using a warn winch, they usually come with a good circuit breaker of some sort, (some of the cheaper winches come with a pretty shitty one I wouldn't trust) if not, go on amazon and search marine type switch rated circuit breakers. They are weather proof, will protect your truck/equipment, and can be used as a disconnect switch to prevent any accidental activation of your winch should something go wrong.

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I thank you guys for your opinions. I DO NOT want a melt down, that's for sure. So a good quality welding cable would be a good choice for the cables? What gauge wire would you suggest? Now the breaker/isolation switch, what kind of amperage? I see the one is rated at 200 amp. Is that sufficient? The reason I had thought about the maxi-fuse location was because it was convenient and no new battery required. If it helps any I have the Warner 8k winch. I'd just like to keep from screwing anything up when installing the winch.

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wire and breaker size will be determined by the winch model.

Run at least a 1/0 wire you will be safe, 2/0 will be best, but it is a large wire. Most people never use a winch to its full capacity. Breaker looks like should be 300A, 250A minimum.

Mine is smaller because I am running a smaller winch. Mine is 6klb.

Go to this link, will show the breakdown of welding cable ampacity ratings. http://www.directwireusa.com/Resources/WELDING%20CABLE%20GUIDE%202016.pdf

 

Scroll to the bottom of the page, shows performance specs (select the specifications tab) for a ZEON series 8k, not being sure of what yours is specifically.

https://www.warn.com/truck/winches/ZEON_8-s.jsp

Edited by jderekt

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What jderekt said..great link.. My recommendation for wire is 2 awg stranded..again, warn 8k, can surge over 430amp depending how you use it. I have a SBX350 quick disconnect good up to 350 continuous 500 surge along with a direct connect to Battery. I used to have a big surge 400 amp breaker, and didn't like it tripping at inopportune times.. So I tried http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php.

 

https://www.amazon.com/0-GAUGE-CIRCUIT-INDUSTRIAL-GETWIREDUSA-FX313-500A/dp/B01CIZ9SD4

 

I looked at these as well, but again, i have used the heck out of this 8k winch direct wired, for more than 17 years and have never had any problem..

 

Ultimately, direct connect 2/0 awg, good quality connections, soldered, heat shrinked.

 

The problem with circut breakers is that this..The battery is good for 700amp surge, your winch could surge past 500, so long before you kick the breaker, you will know you have let the smoke out..

 

Dang phone

 

if light use, a breaker like picture above will work,

 

Smaller winch is great, you can always double or triple line pull

 

IMHO

Edited by vanr

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Ampacity??? I thought you were making words up! ha ha ha Thanks for the help guys. I'll look the situation over some more before I install the winch. I had it mounted for a fitment check but nothing was hard wired. The winch is a Smittybilt XRC8. I noticed the maxi fuse when I removed the core support for sinking the radiator and thought maybe. That's were that brilliant idea came from. I want to do the installation correctly. Hopefully I'll never have to use the winch but better to have it and not need it, so the saying goes.

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What jderekt said..great link.. My recommendation for wire is 2 awg stranded..again, warn 8k, can surge over 430amp depending how you use it. I have a SBX350 quick disconnect good up to 350 continuous 500 surge along with a direct connect to Battery. I used to have a big surge 400 amp breaker, and didn't like it tripping at inopportune times.. So I tried http://www.vteworld.com/content/electromech/fuse/html/anl/anlfuse.php.

 

https://www.amazon.com/0-GAUGE-CIRCUIT-INDUSTRIAL-GETWIREDUSA-FX313-500A/dp/B01CIZ9SD4

 

I looked at these as well, but again, i have used the heck out of this 8k winch direct wired, for more than 17 years and have never had any problem..

 

Ultimately, direct connect 2/0 awg, good quality connections, soldered, heat shrinked.

 

The problem with circut breakers is that this..The battery is good for 700amp surge, your winch could surge past 500, so long before you kick the breaker, you will know you have let the smoke out..

 

Dang phone

 

if light use, a breaker like picture above will work,

 

Smaller winch is great, you can always double or triple line pull

 

IMHO

Hmmm, liking that breaker.

I should clarify that I run the breaker only for protection from unintended shorts to ground of a power lead. A fuse would be an easier solution and they do open the circuit faster. Both are good solutions. I just like the ease of resetting and done.

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Ampacity??? I thought you were making words up! ha ha ha Thanks for the help guys. I'll look the situation over some more before I install the winch. I had it mounted for a fitment check but nothing was hard wired. The winch is a Smittybilt XRC8. I noticed the maxi fuse when I removed the core support for sinking the radiator and thought maybe. That's were that brilliant idea came from. I want to do the installation correctly. Hopefully I'll never have to use the winch but better to have it and not need it, so the saying goes.

haha! Yep, that's a real word. I am an industrial maintenance electrician by trade working in a large aluminum rolling mill. So I do tend to "over build" a bit.

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You stated that the connection should be soldered Wouldn't an amperage surge tend to un-solder the connection? Maybe a solder and crimp would be better or is the solder enough? I ask because solder is heat sensitive, is it not?

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Exactly solder and crimp. It's about opening the hose..restriction cause heat

Edited by vanr

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If you melt the solder your wire will be toast.

 

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Did either of you do the big three upgrade?

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No

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Yes

 

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Yes

 

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Did it make a difference?

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Yes

 

 

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Did it make a difference?
It did. I also installed an AD244 alternator modded to provide 200 amps.

 

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i also upgraded power production

 

I went with Mr Alternator 200 amp and yellowtop Optima dual post

 

http://www.mralternator.com/alternators/chevygmc.html

I'm running a red top optima dual post. A quality battery is key as well.

 

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I was just going to ask both of you why you went with the optima brands. They're pretty expensive from what I've seen. Are they really worth the difference?

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Not so much anymore..just get a good quality gel cell

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Not so much anymore..just get a good quality gel cell

They were junk for a while. But as I've been told, since Johnson controls bought the brand the quality is back. I had a yellow top that died in just over a year. (Of course warranty was one year) Was looking at different brands to buy, but after talking with a few people I trust I bought the red top I currently have. So we'll see. The warranty is way better at 5 years!

But like VANR says, just buy a good gel (AGM) type as big as you can fit with the best amp hour rating possible. Check with advanced Auto. They have pretty good deals from time to time. I bought my RT for $150 using store discounts, then got a $50 factory rebate after that.

 

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