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Write up on a bravada shaft install?

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take off center cap

loosen hub nut

loosen lug nuts

jack up truck, block wheels and put on stands

remove tire/wheel

remove hub nut

remove brake caliper, and caliper mount, hang caliper with wire

remove rotor

break ball joints loose

pop BJ's off knuckle

swing knuckle forward and hang with wire.

get drain pain under

pull the CV out, you may need to get a block of wood and give it some love taps

remove the outter moun 18mm nut/bolts

remove the 4x4 sensor(I clipped the wires and connected them together so it knows its enguaged)

remove the 15mm bolts holding the tube to the diff

pull out the stub shaft

clean and scrap all the old gasket off

Get the new bravada tube clean also

seal it up(I and other said to use the ultra copper RTV)

torque the diff mount and frame mount to spec

Get the shaft ready by removeing the outter snap ring where the CV will slide on(it need to be done to prevent binding)

put it in and tap till the inner ring in seated

slide the CV back in

get knuckle back in position

torque BJ's to spec

lock tight the hub nut and snug it down

replace brake roter/mount/caliper and torque to spec

put wheel on, torque lug nuts to spec

lower off stands

torque the hub nut to spec

refill the diff

enjoy a more worry free 4x4 system!

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Also go ahead and replace the seal and bearing on the bravada shaft. Both can be bought at the dealer for about 11bucks!

 

And your welcome.

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As far as removing the outer snap ring - I just want to verify, I'll be removing the metal ring on the outer end of the shaft, where the CV will slide on to the shaft, correct?

 

If I remove that snap ring, what holds the CV shaft on?

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Cv cant go anywhere, it is pushed in their about a inch or so.

 

Also all the crap inside the diff their for the 2 piece has to come out. Theirs springs, pins, washers and seals that all have to come. Trust me if you leave the little washer on their you get this annoying ting ting sound when ever you get on it and it spins

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Cv cant go anywhere, it is pushed in their about a inch or so.

 

Also all the crap inside the diff their for the 2 piece has to come out. Theirs springs, pins, washers and seals that all have to come. Trust me if you leave the little washer on their you get this annoying ting ting sound when ever you get on it and it spins

 

Awesome. Any chance you have pictures of said "stuff" to remove? Or is it fairly obvious when I open it up on what all needs to go? I've never pulled the tube out of a front differential on this truck before, so I have no idea what I'm in for.

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Most of the shit is going to fall out.

 

100_5333.jpg

 

Heres some of the shit.

 

You want it looking like this once everything is out, minus the rust of course.

 

100_5279.jpg

Edited by Troublemaker

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Thanks for the pics! I will hopefully be conquering this in 3-4 weeks. I plan on taking lots of pics, and doing a complete write-up with pics for n00bz like myself that have no fucking clue. lol.

 

Thanks guys.

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Need Info.!!! I have been seaching post but havent found it. I need to know the part # for the seal and bearing on the bravada axle tube.

 

Don't have the numbers handy, but the only place I could find the bearing was a dealer... just go in and have them pull up the picture on their computer. Ran me like $10, and I got the seal at o'reilly's.

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Good deal.

 

Could someone explain the benefits of this? Does it do away with the vacuum used to engage the 4wd? I get the whole idea of this but just can't seem to get the reason..

 

 

 

Don't hate, just explain..LOL

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Yes, it completely eliminates the vacuum engagement system and all the unreliability headaches associated with it. As long as your transfer case engages, your 4x4 will work. I was blowing through vacuum diaphragms, and had gotten stuck in light off-roading situations one too many times, so I went ahead with the swap.

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Yes, it completely eliminates the vacuum engagement system and all the unreliability headaches associated with it. As long as your transfer case engages, your 4x4 will work. I was blowing through vacuum diaphragms, and had gotten stuck in light off-roading situations one too many times, so I went ahead with the swap.

The one piece shaft is also alot stronger.

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i have tried to do a search to see what year model bravada shaft to pull from the donar truck. i have a 2000.

97+, you should have the slip in style CVs.

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So, you are using the shaft and tube from the bravada for the passenger side, or both?

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I know that the bravada one piece cv is compatible and the swap has been done 1000 times but isn't it significantly shorter than than the oem zr2 shaft?

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You only use the passenger side tube & shaft. It is exactly the same size as the zr2 two-piece shaft, the cv shafts are longer to make up for our wider stance.

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How would the driver side get engaged then? Doesn't that rely on vacuum also. Or is it a constant like the Bravada?

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You only use the passenger side tube & shaft. It is exactly the same size as the zr2 two-piece shaft, the cv shafts are longer to make up for our wider stance.

This

 

John, do you have a bravada shaft in your 'noma?

Not yet. I have one in a bucket full of bravada diff, but I'm waiting to find a slip-in CV style iron diff case so I can do it all at once. I have a bolt on CV style iron case, but I would rather just stay with the slip in. And I'm not sure if I can convert it.

 

How would the driver side get engaged then? Doesn't that rely on vacuum also. Or is it a constant like the Bravada?

The driver side has a short stubby shaft, kinda like my penis, that connects the cv to the spider gear full time. The passenger side is the only on to disengage.

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You only use the passenger side tube & shaft. It is exactly the same size as the zr2 two-piece shaft, the cv shafts are longer to make up for our wider stance.

This

 

John, do you have a bravada shaft in your 'noma?

Not yet. I have one in a bucket full of bravada diff, but I'm waiting to find a slip-in CV style iron diff case so I can do it all at once. I have a bolt on CV style iron case, but I would rather just stay with the slip in. And I'm not sure if I can convert it.

 

How would the driver side get engaged then? Doesn't that rely on vacuum also. Or is it a constant like the Bravada?

The driver side has a short stubby shaft, kinda like my penis, that connects the cv to the spider gear full time. The passenger side is the only on to disengage.

 

Do you have problems keeping it up to? Or does chelsea have vacuum issues?

 

:D

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You only use the passenger side tube & shaft. It is exactly the same size as the zr2 two-piece shaft, the cv shafts are longer to make up for our wider stance.

This

 

John, do you have a bravada shaft in your 'noma?

Not yet. I have one in a bucket full of bravada diff, but I'm waiting to find a slip-in CV style iron diff case so I can do it all at once. I have a bolt on CV style iron case, but I would rather just stay with the slip in. And I'm not sure if I can convert it.

 

How would the driver side get engaged then? Doesn't that rely on vacuum also. Or is it a constant like the Bravada?

The driver side has a short stubby shaft, kinda like my penis, that connects the cv to the spider gear full time. The passenger side is the only on to disengage.

 

Do you have problems keeping it up to? Or does chelsea have vacuum issues?

 

:D

How about you rub it and find out. :lol:

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