Overhead console?, How do you put it in the pickup? Options

[LayZs27]

I see some guys with it and i really like it. What do you have to do to mount it?

[Farvafire]

I am currently on leave until tuesday, however i have to work on saturday, since i have to work i will be doing my write up on my overhead console that day and hopefully post it on sat night it should be lengthy and into as much detail as i can offer.

I also have a short delux one without the bracket or the compas for sale due to my stupidity. check int he zr2 parts forum

This post has been edited by Farvafire: Aug 8 2006, 08:40 PM

[LayZs27]

i dont really need a compass. but whats the difference between the 2?

[Blackhighrider]

here's mine. So far, I love it. I think the small one would be MUCH less of a PITA to install, for sure. But I do like having all the extra compartments, and it is BRIGHT in there with the extra dome lights!


(IMG:http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/blackhighrider/100_0345.jpg)
(IMG:http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c166/blackhighrider/100_0350.jpg)

[Farvafire]

[Blackhighrider]

An external compass sensor? Dang I didn't know that.

I've seen OHC's without any digital features, just a plastic panel.

Also, I'm pretty sure the ones out of late 90's full size Chevy pickups and Suburbans/Tahoes are the same, if not maybe better. If I'm not mistaken they may not have the "hump" cut out in them, but I"m not sure.

[LayZs27]

I deffinitly want a short one because eventually id like to install a sunroof. i just want the console for sunglases and the 2 lights and switches i could power a sunroof with. i dont need a compass. how do you mount it to the roof? thats what im not understanding because i know no one wants screws sticking out of their roof.

[zee]

Install info

There is a better writeup somewhere, haven't found it yet.

[Farvafire]

Here is the most complete write up i could offer for more pics or info just email me or send me a pm

as far a a console with the lights and the compartment there is a bracket behind the liner that the console attaches to that provides a mounting surface.

Email me and i can send you the full version or if some one can let me know how to post it here so the pics will show up from a microsoft word document


Over Head Console INSTALL
DAVID SPAULDING


1) First choose a console that meets your needs
a) Long OHC
i) Basic; temperature and direction
ii) Deluxe; temperature, direction, mpg, instant mpg, distance left on tank of fuel, amount of fuel used
b) Short OHC
i) Basic; temperature and direction
ii) Deluxe; temperature, direction, mpg, instant mpg, distance left on tank of fuel, amount of fuel used
iii) Sun roof control
c) HomeLink
i) Is available for both
ii) Allows you to operate most remote controlled functions of your home
d) Temperature sensor that will be attached to the hood latch behind the grill
2) Check to ensure that you have all necessary equipment
a) Wire choice of color is not a big deal 100’ should be sufficient
b) Some connectors
i) Blue clamp one ones
ii) Wire to wire round connectors
iii) Terminal connectors
iv) Tape to label the wires
v) Black tape to secure the wires
c) Ensure that you have all the necessary equipment with the console
i) Long
(1) At least 5 screws three for the console and two to secure the wood to the roof
(2) I piece of ¼ in plywood or equivalent
ii) Short
(1) Mounting bracket to secure above the head liner
(2) Compass sensor
(3) 1 screw
d) Other items needed
i) Tape measure
ii) Screw driver flat and Philips
iii) X-acto knife or razor blade
iv) Marker
v) Wire stripper and crimper
vi) Handy friend to help
3) Begin by disassembling your cab
a) Remove the pillar on the driver and passenger side I chose driver side (pry out)
b) Remove the lower dash assembly (screws)
c) Remove the black sound dampener assembly (screws)
d) Remove the upper cover to the latch for the third door (pry out)
e) Remove the back plastic on drivers side back side of cab (pry out)
f) Remove the plastic surrounding the jump seat( screws pry out)
i) There is a screw in the coat hanger
g) Remove the oh shit handle over head
h) Remove the visors
i) You have to pull the clips out where the visor hooks in with a pair of pliers
i) Pull the head liner out the back has two pieces of Velcro holding it in place and the corners where the window is was glued.
i) You will have to rotate it a little in order to get it out and slide it side ways
ii) Mark the center of the liner with a piece of tape it will help get you centered when installing the console
j) Once you pulled it out get the tape measure out and begin measuring
i) There is a small strip of metal just above the wind shield in which you will have to drill into to put the screw into to secure the console. You can go to the dealer and purchase the special clip to go in there or acquire one from a junk yard
ii) You will also have to cut a hole in the liner for the wires to run through ensure that it is in an area that will be covered by the console
k) Mark all your measurements with a piece of tape then size the liner up in side the truck to ensure that you have placed everything as centered as possible
l) For the short console they are supplied with a bracket that is above the liner, once you have the hole lined up to screw into the metal then tape it to the roof and cut for the clips and then reinstall the liner after running your wires
4) With the console out in an area where you have adequate room begin running your wires. If you used one color ensure you use tape at the tip to label it with the color that you connecting to.
a) I used approximately 10 feet of wire I had excess in most cases, the wire for the speed control and the temperature sensor have to be longer so they reach to the engine compartment.
b) The wire connections are as follows
i) Orange and white wires run to the back of the console to the dome light and connect corresponding wires
ii) Black, and black with white ground them I did it with a screw above the liner into the brace with a terminal connector and a screw
iii) Light green with black is the air temperature sensor lead wire the other wire one the sensor is just a ground you can ground it at the latch for the hood
iv) Dark green with white is the Vehicle Speed Sensor
(1) Under hood on the CPU, passenger side, disconnect the black terminal by removing the blue clip, locate pin number three and splice into this wire using a clamp on type of connector.
v) Dark green is the power I ran this to the fues box and installed another fues
vi) Grey wire is the dimmer wire I tied this into the fog light option behind the dash where the light switch is located.
vii) Purple and white is the light wire tied into the same location as the grey wire
viii) Purple wire will be ran under the dash to the trouble code hook up to the other purple wire and spliced in there.
(1) You might have less wires depending on your console
c) Screw your piece of wood to the beam in the center of the cab
d) Place the liner back into the truck and run the wires through the hole you cut
e) Route them behind the indentation for the visors
f) Line up your console and drill through the liner and into the bar above the window
g) Then screw your console into that bar and into the board attached to the roof
h) Run your wires down the drivers side into the dash then hook up the wires corresponding with the above mentioned ensure that you disconnect the positive and negative terminals of your battery before installing and do not under any circumstances tamper with any yellow wires these are for the air bags
i) Test your console and ensure that you all your hard work has paid off if it works begin by reassembling it all

Here is a list of web sites that have pics or information on the install

Album: Ebay Sale
Arisa's Overhead Console Wiring Harness Instructions
Album: Overhead console
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2759239
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189103
s-series.org
http://www.txzr2.com/Midwest/html/txforum/...hp?showtopic=26
ZR2 USA -> Homelink Buttons
ZR2 USA -> Long OHC Installed!
ZR2 USA -> OHC is in the truck.. My new mod
ZR2 USA -> Overhead console
http://www.syty.net/forums//showthread.php?t=18531


Here are documents that I have saved you may find interesting or heplfull

Hey man, I finaly got some time at work to mess around so here it goes, when you go to buy one look for the folowing, long overhead console or short 98 or newer to match computer outputs, homelink is a great option, this is what i am thinking happened to me, i got a 96 which the computer supposidly doesnt match so i purchased a short one which didnt come with the mounting bracket this is important to have if you have the short one. it has the compas on it and it also serves to mount it on the long one you have one screw in the front that you will have to screw into the metal strip under the head liner then you will have to put some kind of board inbetween the headliner and the roof to mount the two screws in the dome light location. what i am doing now is trying to get that external compas, i thought i would try to unsolder the compas on the 96 and replace it on the 2000 that i bought but after closer review i noticed that the pin locations are different betwween the boards. so thats what i am waiting on. the document that i used as a guide said to just bearly pull the headliner down but i took it all out and i am glad i did, it was a pain in the ass but it wasnt hard at all just time consuming. you have to pull all the plastic off starting with the passanger side schroud around the seat two screws then pull the pass shit handle off then the plastic piece from dash up (clips) then same to the drivers side (allclips, just pull it) then pull the black pannel on the underside of the dash out then pull the dash out so you can see all the way up to the fire wall. i only got 6 in of wire so i spliced it all right there in the head liner then ran all the wires down the driver side, most of the wires hook up on that side except for 2 those i ran over to the passanger side and ran them through the hole that the antena wire goest through then i just poped the gromet back in one of the wires was for the temp sensor and the other was for the speed sensor. i will take some pics and send them to you when i get the console back in right now i am waiting for the sensor so i can put it all back together, also i ran 4 extra wires down the passanger side those i dead ended in the area behind the the glove box then i put them in the area wiht the homelink buttons so at a later time i could install some switches up there for things like lights and what not. all in all if i ever get it installed and working right i will be happy but i think that i didnt do enough research before ordering parts and that sort so now i am paying for it in the long run. best advise also is to make sure you are getting a console from the same year as your vehicle for the purpose of the computer. ie 97 older or 98 newer as far as i can also i purchased 2 100 feet of black and red wire i only needed about 25 feet of both there was like six wires i had to run down the drivers side the other 3 i ran back to the dome light one power one something rother match colors then i grounded the black one and black / wite straight to the metal bar in front of the windshield. i am attaching all the stuff that i have for you to read and make your own opinions i work 24 and 72 hour shifts i will be working friday sat and sunday this weekend it should be enough time to look at the info and get some questions i still dont know exactly where the purple wire goes but when i get the new one in i will start plugging it in and figure it out. the brown and grey i believe i put right into the back of the light switch i just made sure that when i turned my lights on the lights on the console worked. make sure that while you are working on the wiring disconnect the pos and the neg batt terminal they say you can set off the air bags, also a warning do not do no do not cut or splice into the yellow wires they are for the airbag system. if you have any other questions pleas ask, also when i ran my wires i put tape on the end of them and wrote the color so when i had the console in and running the wires i knew what color went where, the gap wasnt much so i didnt worry much about it, i had the console installed in the head liner before putting it in that is kind of a bithch to get out of the truck but it will make it with out much damage i had to cut a small hole in the center for the wires to come out and there are two pieces of velcrow that hold the liner in in the back 3-4 in in from the sides, when you are cutting the headliner and pulling it out and in dont get the particles in your eyes, it burns and stings so bad like getting fiberglas in your eye, my eye was read for like 3 hours afterwards and wouldnt stop watering. i know its a lot of information and not in an very good order but it is a bunch of mis combobulated info hopefully it will help. also copy the picture off the forum about the purple wire i started in the ask mike one. please dont heasatate to give me a hollar soon i will make a write up on installing it when i have to work 3 days. i have like 4 saved docs so when you recieve this email let me know and i will send you the rest they are kind of large.



This is info I have gathered to do a overhead blazer console (the long one)











Re: Overhead Blazer Console Install
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Re: Overhead Blazer Console Install
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Re: Overhead Blazer Console Install
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Re: Overhead Blazer Console Install
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Title:Overhead Console Install - 98+ specific

Author:DWCMIke

(written based on 1998 and up s-series trucks only)
Tools needed:
• 7mm ¼ drive socket
• Ratchet or socket/nut driver (looks like a screwdriver handle)
• Philips-head screwdriver
• T-15 Torx screwdriver
• Pliers, preferably needle-nose
• Long, skinny slot-head screwdriver
• Duct tape
• A knife to cut the headliner. I used a Leatherman PST multi-tool. A VERY sharp box-cutter should also work.
Parts needed:
•

Overhead console, seen on the left in the picture. Price on this varies, depends on where you get it from
Bracket, seen here on the right You should ask for this if you get the console from a junkyard, I did and they sent it along. The item is also available from GM and includes the compass sensor. The bracket is part number 15106819 and can be had for under $100 from a couple of online GM parts dealers.
• 2 Screws, GM part number 11515401 (they’re special screws)

•

This harness was specially made for this job, PM me on the site to ask me for contact info for the gentleman (Neal Whitaker) making these. He also sells the GM clip (GM part number 01638575) for above the windshield and the temperature sensor (GM part number 15971127) needed to make that function work. It’s just as easy to get them from him, keeps all the bits in one box. You can also wire this yourself following directions in a PDF found on other sites.
• I used 3-M wire-taps from Digikey to tap wires for the lights.
Getting started:

Before starting, un-do the negative battery cable. Don’t worry about your pre-sets if you have a factory radio, somehow it holds them, but the time goes bye bye.

OK now, on to the actual work, like getting all the parts and tools together wasn’t ENOUGH work.

Remove the dash faceplate, there’s some work involved here:
Take out the hush panel above the driver’s feet. I think there’s 4 screws (all 7mm) to remove. While you’re there, take out the screw on the next black panel over, it’s got to come out anyway in order to take out the next panel up. In all, there are 5 to remove at this step. Disconnect the remote entry brain at this point also, it’s actually attached to this panel. Also, take out the 2 screws holding the OBD connector to this panel, it allows you to slip the connector through and take the panel right out of the truck. I used the bed to store all the stuff I took out.


Next up is the knee bolster trim panel. Picture is with the panel removed. 4 screws and some spring clips and it pops right out. One screw is a little difficult to remove if you have the remote tape deck like I have, I just used a ratchet instead of the nut driver. Make sure the e-brake is set, then release the release cable from the pedal assembly, it should slip out through its hole in the dash, it’ll become clear once you look at it, this area is VERY hard to take a picture of with a simple film camera. This allows you to totally remove this panel for more room. The extra screw removed above allows this panel to come out; this is all clear once you look at the dash.
NOW we get to the surround (tedious, isn’t it?). Taking off the knee bolster trim panel reveals 2 screws, seen in the picture in the previous step. Take those out, take out the lonely screw that’s vertical in the center of the dash pod. Make sure the e-brake is still set, put the key in the “unlock” position, place a foot firmly on the brake, tilt the wheel all the way down and drop the gearshift into “1” (only applies on automatics with column shift). CAREFULLY pull the surround away from the dashboard, be VERY observant of the hazard switch, it WILL break if you’re not careful, the bezel does have a section below the instrument panel, it curves over the column. You’ll meet some resistance along the way, the headlight switch needs to be unplugged (I think there’s 2 plugs here), the 4x4 switch needs the same treatment (I think there’s 2 plugs here) so does the passenger side airbag disable switch. Oh yeah, there’s a harness under the headlight harness that’s plugged into a dummy outlet, that’s for the fog light switch.

left: Drivers foot well removed
right: Dash all apart

Take out the 2 screws holding the radio in and pull it out. There will be a big plug under the fan, the antenna plug and possibly another plug near the antenna one, disconnect all of them.
Remove the trim on the driver’s side of the windshield; you’ll need it off to get the harness through the side of the dash. I also had to move the fuse panel (just one 7mm screw) to get the room for my hands back there. I hope you’re a contortionist, or know one; you practically need to be one to get this harness routed.

Once I got the dash apart, before routing the harness, I plugged in the radio plug parts and plugged the harness into the trip computer part of the console, to make sure it would power up, before going to the trouble of routing the harness. You’ll need to reconnect and then disconnect the battery to do this.

Here's a pic of the wiring tucked behind the radio opening once it was all hooked up. If you have an aftermarket radio, I can see this being a bit of a bottleneck.

I took this opportunity to do a wipe-down of some of the A/C ducting and the insides of the vents. Neal does a terrific job in his PDF (WE NEED THIS HOSTED)
To route the temp. sensor wire through the firewall; I took a long, thin, flat-head screwdriver, taped the terminal on the green wire to it, making sure to totally cover the terminal with the piece of tape so it won’t catch. Push the screwdriver through the big rubber grommet that seals the main harness going through the firewall between the brake pedal and the e-brake pedal. I pushed through above the harness, to make sure I didn’t hit anything I wasn’t supposed to. Un-wrap the tape and route the wire up to the hood latch support where the sensor gets mounted. You can see where the wire comes through in this picture. The ABS module is the silver thing at the bottom, brake booster is to the left.




Here's where the temp. sensor mounts. You have to find your own ground for it. I just crimped a ring terminal onto the wire and drilled a hole to put a screw through. You could also splice a ground wire from the harness.

Once I had the harness routed, I re-assembled the dash. The brake release cable can be a little tricky to reinstall but if you paid VERY close attention to the removal, you should have very little trouble with it, it goes right by some wiring so it may catch on that as you try to get it through. Also make sure that plastic grommet with the groove in it gets hooked back onto its bracket.

Now, to the headliner. Some say to totally remove it. I just pulled down the front half. Take off the passenger side a-pillar molding, it just pulls off like the driver’s side did. Remove the 3 T-15 screws from each of the sun visor hinges. Remove the T-15 screw from each of the inboard sun visor clips and CAREFULLY remove them. These clips look like a one-time use item but can only be bought with the entire visor, at ~$75 each. I used the pliers to get them re-shaped to go back in the hole. It’s like one of those collapsing wall mollies, that pulls in and the sides squeeze out as you tighten the screw. Make sure you re-form the plastic on all 4 sides.

Remove the “Uh oh” handle over the pass. side door, 10mm socket might be the one to do the trick there, there’s some press-fit plugs over the bolts, then just find the socket size that works. Last but not least, pull off the 3rd door latch cover, just simple spring clips, so it pops right off.

I didn’t get a good picture of this, but there’s a square hole just left of center in the rib above the windshield, then an oblong hole just to the right of that, should be centered. The clip goes up into the bigger hole, then slides right, the screw hole in the clip should be inside the oblong hole in the rib and only 2 “fingers” of the clip should be on the bottom of the rib, the rest should be hidden inside.
Use one of the 2 screws you got from GM through the hole in the plastic part of the bracket, not the front hole, but the one farther back. Do your best to center the bracket and find some way to temporarily affix it to the roof. I couldn’t permanently hook it to the roof, but the headliner does a fine job of holding it up. Here's my bracket taped to the roof. You can see my light wiring to the left of it.


Push the headliner up to the bracket, find where the front of the bracket, where the console screws in, hits the headliner and cut that out. For the rest of the cut-out, I cut around the 2 points on the bracket where the clips from the console itself push into the bracket. I used those 3 points as reference and cut out the middle, being careful not to cut where the console wouldn’t cover the hole.

Once the bracket is up and the hole is cut, push the headliner back to the roof and put the sun visors on, but don’t install the inner clips yet. Now, the moment of truth, plug the harness into the console, push the wires into the hole and install it. The second screw you got from GM holds the front of the console up, the rear pushes up into the bracket. It can be hard to push up there once you line it up, but it WILL go. Here mine is, all mounted up.


Hook up your neg. battery cable and turn the key to Run, it should run through its test and you’re good to go. At this point, finish re-installing the headliner parts, put all your tools away and pop open a cold one, unless you want to go for a test ride.

Here's a picture of the finished install.
Yeah, it was a little warm that day.


Written by: MIke Levy
Edited by: Geoff Moore (betterthanyou)
Thanks to Neal Whitaker for his PDF detailing the installation of his harness.




I’m not going to explain how to remove the radio or dash fascia panels. If you are putting in a console I’m going to assume you know how to do this . Make sure to disconnect the battery before starting this project.

The harness has one or two wires (depending on style) that are the reference point. They need to be on the left hand side of the steering column. See picture. These wires are (yellow/data bus & light green/temp sensor)



Pull the console end of the harness up and out of the dash at the windshield pillar beside the existing overhead harness. This may be easier if you loosen the fuse panel & move it out of the way. Route it behind the clips so it won’t rattle & is out of the way. These can be removed with a flat blade.



Pull the drivers side sun visor and route the upper part of the harness behind the sun visors to the center of the truck. Plug that end up to the console & we are ready for the fun part.

Back under the dash. Take the remainder of the harness & fish it under the steering column and back into the dash to the right of the column. It will be easier if you remove the bolts that hold the dash bracket in place. You can see the silver bracket I’m referring to just behind my hand.


It will take a little time & some patience to get it routed and into the center part of the dash. Just go slow, take your time & make sure not to get the wires hooked on anything.

This is the existing radio plug.



Stick a screwdriver between the two plugs & separate them.



We have to pull the green wire out of the white plug & place it into the new harness. To do this you first have to pop up the retaining tab. I use an eyeglass screwdriver to do this.



Now that the tab is up we can release the locking tab on the pin itself. I have a GM tool for doing this but a heavy paperclip will work fine.



Place this wire in the blue female half of the new harness & plug the green wire from the new harness into the existing plug.



Lock both of the plastic tabs on both the blue plug & the white plug and snap the two blue plugs together.



Snap the new harness black plug to the white one in place of the factory one and plug the factory black plug into the back on the new harness.



Tuck the new harness into the area to the right of the heater vents & make sure the antenna lead is out of the way of the radio rear support.



Stuff the radio back in place and crawl under the drivers side of the dash.

Here we will plug the yellow wire into the data bus connector. The connector should be taped the OBDII wiring. Snap the plug open and lock the yellow wire into any one of the vacant spots on the connector.



The light green wire needs to make it’s way to the engine bay. You will have to make a slit with a knife in the main engine/body rubber boot to slide it through. Spray the connector on the end on the wire down with a little WD40 to let it slide better through the boot. You can see it just above the arrow in the picture above and in the picture below.



Route the wire down the side of the truck towards the grill & the in front of the radiator to the center of the grill. Undo the blue clip from the connector with the black wire attached to it. Snap the light green wire into the connector & snap the blue retainer back into place. Find a spot out front to attach the black wire for ground and plug in the air temp sensor to the connector.

Reconnect the battery. Turn the key to the on position & make sure the console powers up.

If you have any questions, would like to order a harness, or host this file on another server please email me at Nwhitaker@AstoneFabricators.com or ArisaLT4@hotmail.com

2004 Copyrights, Permissions, Etc…… All owned by Neal Whitaker

well i finally got the nerve to buy me a long overhead console and install it. i bought everything from Neal (Arisa on zr2.com). i got the one with trip computer and i really like it. tell me what you think. here are a few pics:







if you have any questi
ons justMy current overhead console...





02blue, have you ever taken the driverside a piller off?

When you pop it off you'll see a taped up bundle of wires, carefully pull some of the tape off and you'll find your orange,white and a ground. The other three (Grey) (Purple/White) and (Dark green) get some 14-16 gauge wire at any auto store and start at the radio first.



Get three diffrent colors or it'll be a pain. Ok after you have your wire go ahead and cut a 15 foot peice of each color.




What I did was twist them three together really tight by using a bench and drill and ran them down the passenger side A piller and upto behind the radio. After you have the wires run start stripping them soldering and taping them so you wont get any loose connections.



About the only other wire you need is a long run to go down the driver side A piller all the way to the raditor core and thats where you mount the temp sensor and also can ground that right there. Since I have an alarm I used my existing hole thru my firewall. Look for a gromment under the passenger side dash, thats the radio attenna and you may be able to run the temp wire that way otherwise grab a drill and make a small hole under the driver side dash between the gas pedal and brake pedal.


BEFORE DRILLING! Take a good luck and make sure you are clear of anything, I know a few people did when I worked at CC drilled thru peoples brake booster!

I removed my headliner while installing my OHC, some I belive did not much easier if you take it out.


Lemme get some more pics tommorow during the day.

Finally got a chance to take pictures and post them up here on the forum. I installed an overhead console from a 2001 Bravada and lighted vanity visors from a 2000 Jimmy. I installed a short console made for the sunroof models that includes map lights, temp/multi mode display including mpg, temp/direction, miles until tank is empty, and more. Also it has the homelink function that can control garages, house lights, etc. The visors are the lighted versions with small mirrors that I wired up. Mine originally came with regular visors with no mirrors. Here's the pics:











Since I have map lights in my rearview mirror, I tied the power for the visors into that. For the console I tied 7 out of the 9 wires into the radio. The other 2 wires, VSS and Class 2 serial data bus, I tied into the blue plug at the BCM.

I have a 12 page Word Document file that details every wiring diagram from the BCM to the radio to the little temperature sensor. It also has the variance maps, homelink programming procedures, everything I used to install the thing. If someone can host the file or zip it for me, I can't upload it because I've reached my max for the site. Its a 360k file and I can't attach anymore files.

I've read a lot of threads on here and on ssf. Talked to many people about this. Special thanks to Hucko and rlilth for getting me started on where and what to look for. There are hundreds of threads about installing these consoles but the problem I kept running into was which wires do what. I have the diagrams that are from the GM techline software, the actual program the service techs use at the dealerships. I just need someones help with the file.

Let me know what you guys think. Hopefully this will help someone install these a lot smoother.






After you have reviewed this information and you still have questions please email me and I will be more than happy to give you info and pictures where available. Hope this helps anyone that is looking to install one.
I personally am very happy with this mod all in all it took approximately 4-5 hours to include thinking, I had some hick ups along the way it is important that you choose a console that matches your truck especially the computer by this I mean some time in 96 or 97 they changed the software of the computers and older consoles will most likely not work with a newer one, best bet is to get one out of a newer vehicle, ie blazer bravado envoy, astro van, mini van, truck or such.

[mlevy]

Man, it's been so long since I've been to the site, I no longer have the Z, haven't in a year. Thanks for including my write-up in this post, the pic links might have made the format a little easier to follow. The original article can be found here

Unfortunately, I no longer have an e-mail address for Neil, so the pre-made harness might be hard to find. My contact with him was on zr2.com, that site now points to here.

Sorry to dig up an old thread...

[Ticketmagnet]

[caszr2y]

i need a mounting bracket for th SHORT ohc. any one have one lying around

[mlevy]

Wow, quick search on ebay found this

And this


Both include the console, but for the price, it'd almost be worth it. The bracket can also be gotten from a GM dealer, part number is 15106819, but a quick check at gmpartsdirect.com shows it at over $130.

Wow, partszoneonline.com, with whom I've done business before, shows the part at $88 and change.

This post has been edited by mlevy: Oct 21 2006, 11:18 PM

[swimmer4uus]

Anyone get in touch with Neil and see if he's selling the harness? :Idunno:

[nosaint]

I have a short one. 25 + shipping,...no bracket or sensors

[TonyTheTiger57]

Ok I just bought a ohc and it looks easy for me to do. But I would like to know how to find the OHC with the mpg option on it? Id love to have that.

[HenryJ]

Yet another resource: S-10CREWCAB.COM Fourm - overhead console w/ trip computer

Arisa's Overhead Console Wiring Harness Instructions

[Farvafire]

since you have the console go to a junk yard and walk around and look at all the consoles and find which one has the mode and metric/us conversion button, pop the cover off, and pull out the computer, tell the guys at the front desk its some stupid worthless part you just have to have to complete your rebuild and go home and take your normal temp and direction out the same way and put the new one in, ensure you pull it from a 97 plus chevy/gm/olds vehicle and it will work, mine is out of a gmc van. govy type works good.

[ZR2butters]

any idea if a OHC would fit in my 95' Z??? might have to go to the junk yard this weekend to see if i can find one.how much do they ussaully run and how many hours does it take to install. all i really need is the space and compass and possible the lights. my rear-view mirror already has those :D

[TonyTheTiger57]

I paid 3.00 for mine.