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How To: Wheel Bearings


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#1 SnowMan

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Posted 10 June 2006 - 04:30 PM

Here is the write up on how to change your wheel bearings.

First off jack up the front of your truck and use jackstands. Take off your tire and then break the 36MM axle nut loose while the brakes are still on the truck. Just have a buddy get in the truck and hold the pedal down.

Next begin removing the caliper by using a 18MM box end wrench. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on the knuckle. Some guys have removed the slider pins, and then went on to remove the other bolts but it's not neccesary.
You may have to have a buddy move the steering wheel to get better access to the bolts. Sorry guys, A ratchet won't fit because of the A-arm. Next tie the calipers with zip ties or something so they don't hang by the brake line.

Next remove the rotor. If it won't budge a little WD40 and a torch will help with its removal. Once the rotor is off you get a good visual of the bearing. Disconnect the ABS sensor wire that is located on the top of the frame (near the frame horn). Also remove the hardware that the ABS wire and brake line that is attached to the a-arm.

Next, Take a block of wood and hold it onto the end of the CV shaft and just hammer the block of wood so the shaft will loosen up on the bearing. Also keep the nut on the end of the shaft while doing this. ( it will insure that you won't damage the threads while hammering)

Next, Look on the back side of the knuckle and you will see 3 18MM bolts that go through the knuckle into the back of the hub bearing. This can be a pain but I was able to get a ratchet on one the the bolts, but for the other 2 it was that trusty 18MM box end wrench to loosen them up.

Next, with all the bolts removed take a hammer and give the bearing a good whack with the hammer. It may take a few times to bust it loose. Also when it does loosen up make sure that the CV shaft don't stay with the bearing as you remove it. It should be fairly easy to remove the bearing off the shaft.
Make sure that the O-ring comes off too. Also the backing plate comes off with the bearing.

After the bearing is off take time to clean up the mouting location on the knuckle for the new bearing. A little wire brush attachment for a drill works perfect. Also clean up the back plate too.

Next install the new o-ring onto the new bearing and put the bearing through the shaft. Dont forget the backing plate. Bolt the bearing onto the knuckle and then throw that 36MM nut onto the CV axle. Then just reinstall everything like in the teardown process.

I know this is long, Maybe it can be condensed down a bit. For the first time for me it was vot very difficult at all. It took me 4 hours with a few breaks, and lunch.
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#2 MWood

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Posted 16 June 2006 - 10:43 PM

Nice write-up man! But i think the official part name for the newer trucks is a hub assembly. No prob.
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#3 Scooterunderwood

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 02:58 AM

instead of finding a buddy to hit the brakes or even putting a screwdriver in the caliper then into the rotor, you can just engage your 4wheel drive to get that 36mm nut off. Ya i think the foward side 18mm bolt was the hardest to get to, but i was surprised how easy it was to change the WBHA.

I forget where i saw the "engage 4 wheel drive" tip at but i'm not the one that gets the credit, its just a valuable tip to know.

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#4 Blackhighrider

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 11:32 AM

QUOTE (Scooterunderwood @ Jun 17 2006, 02:58 AM)
you can just engage your 4wheel drive to get that 36mm nut off.

Dammit.... I didn't even think about that when I took mine off... The simplest things.
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#5 rockininthezr2488

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Posted 17 June 2006 - 04:05 PM

good write up now just add the few extra comments that are left to make the write up a stickified post. LS1MikesTruck.gif or maybe u can just leave it the way it is but it probly would be a little more useful if you had some pictures to go along with the descriptions of what to do and where these items are. biggrin.gif once again good job tho
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#6 Scooterunderwood

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Posted 20 June 2006 - 06:30 AM

I'll be changing my driver side in about 2-4 weeks, I'll try to snap some pics, its from a 97 so it will be a little different from the 98+. here is a photobucket album of the 98+ from the old zr2 site linkage You really dont need to take off the tierod or top castle nut like they do in that album, i think they were servicing something else too.


other than the WBHA, the only real difference between the 94-97 and the 98+ is the pry off the dust shield/abs sensor (94-97) vs. unbolting of the abs sensor (98+)... please correct me if I'm wrong

-scooter
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#7 DefenderBob

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Posted 20 June 2006 - 08:04 AM

QUOTE (Scooterunderwood @ Jun 20 2006, 06:30 AM)
I'll be changing my driver side in about 2-4 weeks, I'll try to snap some pics, its from a 97 so it will be a little different from the 98+. here is a photobucket album of the 98+ from the old zr2 site linkage You really dont need to take off the tierod or top castle nut like they do in that album, i think they were servicing something else too.


other than the WBHA, the only real difference between the 94-97 and the 98+ is the pry off the dust shield/abs sensor (94-97) vs. unbolting of the abs sensor (98+)... please correct me if I'm wrong

-scooter

Sounds about right. Thats my imagestation album! thumup.gif
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#8 Scooterunderwood

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Posted 20 June 2006 - 08:47 PM

QUOTE (Andicious @ Jun 20 2006, 08:04 AM)
....Thats my imagestation album! ....

And thats why I have a policy of not taking credit for other peoples work! lol

-scooter
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#9 N2DEEP

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 04:24 PM

QUOTE (MaidenZR2 @ Jun 10 2006, 04:30 PM)
Here is the write up on how to change your wheel bearings.

First off jack up the front of your truck and use jackstands. Take off your tire and then break the 36MM axle nut loose while the brakes are still on the truck. Just have a buddy get in the truck and hold the pedal down.

Next begin removing the caliper by using a 18MM box end wrench. Remove the two bolts that hold the caliper on the knuckle. Some guys have removed the slider pins, and then went on to remove the other bolts but it's not neccesary.
You may have to have a buddy move the steering wheel to get better access to the bolts. Sorry guys, A ratchet won't fit because of the A-arm. Next tie the calipers with zip ties or something so they don't hang by the brake line.

Next remove the rotor. If it won't budge a little WD40 and a torch will help with its removal. Once the rotor is off you get a good visual of the bearing. Disconnect the ABS sensor wire that is located on the top of the frame (near the frame horn). Also remove the hardware that the ABS wire and brake line that is attached to the a-arm.

Next, Take a block of wood and hold it onto the end of the CV shaft and just hammer the block of wood so the shaft will loosen up on the bearing. Also keep the nut on the end of the shaft while doing this. ( it will insure that you won't damage the threads while hammering)

Next, Look on the back side of the knuckle and you will see 3 18MM bolts that go through the knuckle into the back of the hub bearing. This can be a pain but I was able to get a ratchet on one the the bolts, but for the other 2 it was that trusty 18MM box end wrench to loosen them up.

Next, with all the bolts removed take a hammer and give the bearing a good whack with the hammer. It may take a few times to bust it loose. Also when it does loosen up make sure that the CV shaft don't stay with the bearing as you remove it. It should be fairly easy to remove the bearing off the shaft.
Make sure that the O-ring comes off too. Also the backing plate comes off with the bearing.

After the bearing is off take time to clean up the mouting location on the knuckle for the new bearing. A little wire brush attachment for a drill works perfect. Also clean up the back plate too.

Next install the new o-ring onto the new bearing and put the bearing through the shaft. Dont forget the backing plate. Bolt the bearing onto the knuckle and then throw that 36MM nut onto the CV axle. Then just reinstall everything like in the teardown process.

I know this is long, Maybe it can be condensed down a bit.  For the first time for me it was vot very difficult at all. It took me 4 hours with a few breaks, and lunch.

This write up helped me allot when I did my hubs, but one thing I did different was to loosen and tighten the axle nut while the tire was on and jacked up just enough so the tire will not spin. I think using 4 wheel could create damage somewhere, I know it was a BIG breaker bar I used and you never know ... idunno.gif
Just remove your center cap!
Or you could put a screwdriver in the rotor cooling vents (while brakes are still on)

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#10 DeTeR

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 04:51 PM

QUOTE (N2DEEP @ Jan 9 2007, 04:24 PM)

This write up helped me allot when I did my hubs, but one thing I did different was to loosen and tighten the axle nut while the tire was on and jacked up just enough so the tire will not spin. I think using 4 wheel could create damage somewhere, I know it was a BIG breaker bar I used and you never know ... idunno.gif
Just remove your center cap!
Or you could put a screwdriver in the rotor cooling vents (while brakes are still on)

thats a damn good idea, thanks for posting that!
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#11 N2DEEP

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Posted 24 January 2007 - 10:46 AM

QUOTE (DeTeR @ Jan 9 2007, 04:51 PM)
QUOTE (N2DEEP @ Jan 9 2007, 04:24 PM)

This write up helped me allot when I did my hubs, but one thing I did different was to loosen and tighten the axle nut while the tire was on and jacked up just enough so the tire will not spin. I think using 4 wheel could create damage somewhere, I know it was a BIG breaker bar I used and you never know ... idunno.gif
Just remove your center cap!
Or you could put a screwdriver in the rotor cooling vents (while brakes are still on)

thats a damn good idea, thanks for posting that!

No problem bro, anything to help out a fellow Z'er!
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#12 hsoj168

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Posted 01 February 2007 - 04:18 AM

QUOTE
This write up helped me allot when I did my hubs, but one thing I did different was to loosen and tighten the axle nut while the tire was on and jacked up just enough so the tire will not spin. I think using 4 wheel could create damage somewhere, I know it was a BIG breaker bar I used and you never know ... 
Just remove your center cap!
Or you could put a screwdriver in the rotor cooling vents (while brakes are still on)



I did somethine sort of similar. I just wedged a crow-bar between the studs so it would run into the ground and stop while I loosened/tightend the axle nut. I then just ran the lugnut over the threads again to make sure there wasn't any damage, which seemed to be fine.

I was curious if anyone had a part # for the "hub assembly" and a price as well? I need to replace mine eventually and just wanted a heads up of what I'd be lookin' at. Thanx!

Edit:
Just found these. Anyone know of a better price possibly aftermarket brand?
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#13 jwilzr2

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Posted 06 February 2007 - 12:00 AM

QUOTE (hsoj168 @ Feb 1 2007, 04:18 AM)
QUOTE
This write up helped me allot when I did my hubs, but one thing I did different was to loosen and tighten the axle nut while the tire was on and jacked up just enough so the tire will not spin. I think using 4 wheel could create damage somewhere, I know it was a BIG breaker bar I used and you never know ... 
Just remove your center cap!
Or you could put a screwdriver in the rotor cooling vents (while brakes are still on)



I did somethine sort of similar. I just wedged a crow-bar between the studs so it would run into the ground and stop while I loosened/tightend the axle nut. I then just ran the lugnut over the threads again to make sure there wasn't any damage, which seemed to be fine.

I was curious if anyone had a part # for the "hub assembly" and a price as well? I need to replace mine eventually and just wanted a heads up of what I'd be lookin' at. Thanx!

Edit:
Just found these. Anyone know of a better price possibly aftermarket brand?

Ask Jigg or go to Synergy Offroad. They have hubs that are less than half that price, that's a huge ripoff!!!
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#14 hsoj168

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Posted 07 February 2007 - 05:42 AM

Sweet! Thanx, man! drinkbuds.gif
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#15 war_wulf

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Posted 17 March 2007 - 04:20 PM

Thanks for the Walk through. A crowbar between the spindle and the lil lip on the CV gets it loose from that bearing if its still froze on after the hammer and block of wood.
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#16 TrailTamer

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Posted 01 April 2007 - 01:57 PM

QUOTE (Scooterunderwood @ Jun 17 2006, 02:58 AM)


I forget where i saw the "engage 4 wheel drive" tip at but i'm not the one that gets the credit, its just a valuable tip to know.

-scooter

i tried that way a while ago, i found out that it didnt work without engine running, so i just restart the engine then its locked, weird
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#17 ZR2K

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 08:14 PM

Hey everyone... Prolly a stupid question.... I am planning on getting a set off Jigg, but I was just wondering why the Local Napa here in BC sells the assembly for $317? Is there any difference? I imagine this is a big rip off idunno.gif ... just curious why such a price difference... thanks in advance!

c
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#18 tyhackman15

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Posted 13 June 2007 - 10:34 AM

Does anyone have the torque specs for these bolts?

1. three hub bolts (i think the box said 180ftlbs)

2. Axle bolt

3. Caliper bolts
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#19 mrl170

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 08:39 PM

Can someone explain the 4wd tip a little more in detail? I went and bought a 36mm socket so I could change it but I need a deep socket which I am having a really hard time finding.
When you engage the 4wd do you still have to loosen it with a 36mm or will it come all of the way off?
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#20 tyhackman15

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Posted 10 July 2007 - 09:03 PM

Just break it loose with the tire on the ground.

Then when you need to completely remove it, stick a crowbar through the lugs so it hits the ground and acts as a brace.

This is where i got my Deep Socket
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