19 replies to this topic

[mondo8205]

Any suggestions on how to get more stopping power?

[atvspeed4]

Any suggestions on how to get more stopping power?

EBC brake pads! I put them on my 2007 range rover sport with drilled and slotted rotors and it made a huge difference. I think Synergy sells an upgraded kit just for our trucks too.

http://www.shop.syne...e-EBCBRAKES.htm

Edited by atvspeed4, 22 May 2012 - 09:52 AM.

[N2O_ZR2]

Different tires. Our aggressive tread is what limits stopping power, not the brakes.


Pull your ABS fuse then slam on the brakes, you'll find out.

[mondo8205]

I still have the ABS module but I do not have the ABS hubs on the truck anymore. Do you think I still need to pull the fuse?

[N2O_ZR2]

I still have the ABS module but I do not have the ABS hubs on the truck anymore. Do you think I still need to pull the fuse?

I was only saying that so you could see what happens when you have full braking power not limited to traction.

And since you are SFA that doesn't apply. You are probably going to need to post this in the SFA section, since they don't really pay attention to other sections.

[mountain_tamer82]

This is my plan. I'm going to start pulling in parts this fall.

[gsmobile2007]

You could use the booster from a full size suburban. There are threads on this mod, they bolt right in and if your not useing the ABS anyway it may be a very easy install.

Edited by gsmobile2007, 22 May 2012 - 09:22 PM.

[Private_Ops]

This is my plan. I'm going to start pulling in parts this fall.

http://shop.savvyoff...p;categoryId=15

Uses off the shelf parts.

[cknaffle]

Any suggestions on how to get more stopping power?

What is your current setup?

[mondo8205]

Current setup:

Stock booster/master
Still runs through ABS mod(no ABS though)
Jeep TJ disk brakes up front and stock disk in rear

Im going to look into the suburban booster, if I can find the thread for it.

[cknaffle]

With that setup, the LAST thing you want to do is put a larger bore master cylinder on it. Keep that in mind when clueless people start telling you that you need a larger master cylinder. Larger bore = less pressure = less stopping power.

Removing the ABS module is super simple and highly recommended. You just need to run a couple lines and put in a T for the front lines. You have every reason why you SHOULD be doing this and zero reasons why not to.

I would also suggest you add an adjustable proportioning valve inline on the rear line. Wilwood makes one that is like $30. Very easy install too.

I would do both of these before you mess with the booster.

[BLACK96regcabHighrider]

Here's the link, I was just looking into this.
ABS Removal

[mondo8205]

The write up looks good, not to bad. Thanks ill get this start pretty soon!

Chris this pvalve?
http://www.jegs.com/...0-8419/10002/-1

Edited by mondo8205, 23 May 2012 - 09:10 AM.

[BDiefAZ]

It may be possible to adjust the master cylinder pushrod (length) behind the master cylinder for optimal performance.

Does anybody on this forum have experience with this adjustment? I have done it on my Bronco when installing a new brake booster. One caution: it is possible to make the pushrod too long which would preload the pressure of the braking system.

[jwwaldschmidt]

If you're interested in messing with the master cylinder, the 3/4 ton master cylinder upgrade fits the bill. Cheap, direct fit, no reason not to prefer it except for those mentioned previously. I'm not enough of an expert on brakes to know when to use the 3/4 ton M/C and when not to. My truck has it, for a reason I assume.

The biggest gain comes from improved pads & rotors, however. The EBC setup will offer less noise and dust, longer life, and substantially improved stopping distance.

D'oh. Keep forgetting you're SFA. That link above is for stock-height trucks, although if you're interested in an EBC setup, send me a PM with the specifics of your setup, and I'll see what I can find for you through our suppliers.

Edited by jwwaldschmidt, 28 May 2012 - 01:18 AM.

[cknaffle]

If you're interested in messing with the master cylinder, the 3/4 ton master cylinder upgrade fits the bill. Cheap, direct fit, no reason not to prefer it except for those mentioned previously. I'm not enough of an expert on brakes to know when to use the 3/4 ton M/C and when not to. My truck has it, for a reason I assume.

The biggest gain comes from improved pads & rotors, however. The EBC setup will offer less noise and dust, longer life, and substantially improved stopping distance.

D'oh. Keep forgetting you're SFA. That link above is for stock-height trucks, although if you're interested in an EBC setup, send me a PM with the specifics of your setup, and I'll see what I can find for you through our suppliers.

Time for noob to go read up on master cylinder basics. Pressure decreases as bore size increases. A large bore MC with stockish parts would give way less braking power.

[jwwaldschmidt]

So when is it preferred? I assume larger bore means more volume, correct?

[jwwaldschmidt]

For the rest of the class:

If the master cylinder bore size is decreased, the piston has to travel further to move the same amount of fluid.

http://www.automedia...pht20080501gh/1

That doesn't make 100% sense to me, but I've never torn apart a M/C, so I'm just drawing pictures in my head of how I think they work internally. I need to rebuild the one for my Mustang, that would be a good time for me to learn.

[mondo8205]

It may be possible to adjust the master cylinder pushrod (length) behind the master cylinder for optimal performance.

Does anybody on this forum have experience with this adjustment? I have done it on my Bronco when installing a new brake booster. One caution: it is possible to make the pushrod too long which would preload the pressure of the braking system.

Ill also look into this. I might do a combination of this and removing the abs module.

[cknaffle]

Correct - larger bore needed to move more fluid. When you go to large bore pistons or multiple pistons, the stock MC won't have enough travel to keep up, so that's why most people go to a 3/4 ton MC. However, going too big is not good. I forget all the bore sizes now, but I think 1-1/8" is what I have now. Some of them go up to 1-5/16" and I did not have good luck with them. Plenty of pedal, but not enough stopping power. The lack of braking power is even more amplified when very deep axle and tcase gears are installed.