12 replies to this topic

[cobra4075]

I just installed their 2 inch shackles yesterday. What a pain in the ass. It's was quite a battle getting the old bolts out. But then when I went o intsall the new ones, they didn't fit. I mean the new bolts that came with the new shackles, don't fit into the holes drilled in the shackles. Way to go Fabtech! Because I did not have 9/16 drill bit, I ended up using the stock bolts. I just want to put this out there, so people know it's not as simple as it appears.

[N2O_ZR2]

Odd, I put them on my dad's blazer no problem aside from the bolts being rusted in the old bushings.

[ducksface]

I had to make a bolt run for the aftermarket idler arm upgrade also. It shipped with fine thread grade 5's and one stripped within a mere second of hitting it with the air drill. I switched to 8's [probably overkill but it was 30cents difference] and coarse thread.

[DelawareValleyZ]

yup they turned into a project for me real quick, damn rust, my body lift was seriously easier

[Scr00ge]

I just installed their 2 inch shackles yesterday.  What a pain in the ass.  It's was quite a battle getting the old bolts out.  But then when I went o intsall the new ones, they didn't fit.  I mean the new bolts that came with the new shackles, don't fit into the holes drilled in the shackles.  Way to go Fabtech!  Because I did not have 9/16 drill bit, I ended up using the stock bolts.  I just want to put this out there, so people know it's not as simple as it appears.

The holes in my Fabtech shackles were also to small for the bolts that came with them.  I was like WTF when I tried to install them.  I ended up drilling out the holes on the shackles.

[cknaffle]

I had to make a bolt run for the aftermarket idler arm upgrade also. It shipped with fine thread grade 5's and one stripped within a mere second of hitting it with the air drill. I switched to 8's [probably overkill but it was 30cents difference] and coarse thread.

You switched from fine to coarse thread?

[ducksface]

I had to make a bolt run for the aftermarket idler arm upgrade also. It shipped with fine thread grade 5's and one stripped within a mere second of hitting it with the air drill. I switched to 8's [probably overkill but it was 30cents difference] and coarse thread.

You switched from fine to coarse thread?

What I really did was switch from the grade5 that stripped out readily to what would be common if I had to replace it readily. I would have went with the same in a fine thread but I try to keep things simple in case I have to rob farm equipment or something similar for a part/bolt/nut. I know most of the arguments [both drunken and sober] about fine thread vs coarse thread, but I am unsure of the actual facts. I'm just not caring much in this circumstance except to readily find a nut in an obscure town/farm/wreck if I need one.

It was more a testimony to mooching on the 30 cent grade5 vs grade8 bolt on a $200 hand fabricated part and kit then on fine vs coarse.
Maybe he packed a grade8 nut with it, maybe it was defective, all I know is the kit sucked and needed replaced.

Also while we're on the subject;
California vehicles will have to get rid of the air pump and sling a hose from one opening to the other on the tubes that feed/relieve it on the idler arm upgrade.

[atvspeed4]

I had to make a bolt run for the aftermarket idler arm upgrade also. It shipped with fine thread grade 5's and one stripped within a mere second of hitting it with the air drill. I switched to 8's [probably overkill but it was 30cents difference] and coarse thread.

You switched from fine to coarse thread?

What I really did was switch from the grade5 that stripped out readily to what would be common if I had to replace it readily. I would have went with the same in a fine thread but I try to keep things simple in case I have to rob farm equipment or something similar for a part/bolt/nut. I know most of the arguments [both drunken and sober] about fine thread vs coarse thread, but I am unsure of the actual facts. I'm just not caring much in this circumstance except to readily find a nut in an obscure town/farm/wreck if I need one.

It was more a testimony to mooching on the 30 cent grade5 vs grade8 bolt on a $200 hand fabricated part and kit then on fine vs coarse.
Maybe he packed a grade8 nut with it, maybe it was defective, all I know is the kit sucked and needed replaced.

Also while we're on the subject;
California vehicles will have to get rid of the air pump and sling a hose from one opening to the other on the tubes that feed/relieve it on the idler arm upgrade.

I always find it funny that hobbiest go with grade 8 "because grade 5 is junk" there is a whole science to grade 5 vs grade 8 and fine thread vs course thread. Something as simple as selecting the type of locknut takes a lot of research. Also if the directions were read there are specific torque specs for each piece of hardware in the kit. An air tool should never have been used.

[ducksface]

Didn't read them, mechanic torqued to some spec of some sort. Again it was partly because an air tool stripped that but nothing else that day and partly so I can find a nut on a tractor hull if that's what I have to scrounge on.

I also didn't use metrics for the same reason.

Edited by ducksface, 29 April 2012 - 05:11 PM.

[cknaffle]

the grade5 that stripped out readily

Your fault, not the bolt's, unless you had defective hardwarem. Grade 5 bolts in 9/16" variety don't strip out readily.

[ducksface]

That's why I mentioned potentially defective and that's why I spoke of cheap hardware kits.
At the beginning of this year I was about 10 for 12 on bad kits, misdrilled holes, welds infringing on holes, horrible fitment.
Except for some bargain basement bolts all else went well with the kit.
I didn't strip it on purpose. O replaced it with more common item.
Maybe the grade five was important on a steering component. Maybe it wasn't the final solution. Is there any reason except cost and overkill to not use the grade 8. As a common hobbyiest this is what I know to guage by.

[cobra4075]

I used to work for a fastener company. Grade 5 will bend or give before breaking where as grade 8 will just break. My shackles came with grade 8 fine thread. But the bolts were slightly larger than the holes drilled in the shackles as well as the sleeve inside the bushing. All fine thread lets you do is provide greater torque to the fastener. In my opinion any hardened bolt will work for this application. Unless the stock bolts are rusted, they are a 10.9 and equivilent to a grade 8, they are ok to reuse. The crush nuts that come with them are better than the nylon lock nuts that came with the kit.

[cknaffle]

10.9 is closer to grade 5. 12.9 is closer to grade 8. They are not exact conversions, but you're off a little.

Fine threads are easier to get tight and tend to stay tighter longer. Fine threads are almost always used in critical applications. They are also very rare compared to coarse.

Factory bolts are 14mm, which is very close to 9/16". 9/16" works fine too, but you need to drill the shackles and sleeves out just a touch. All the shackles I made (several hundred) had 9/16" holes in them and I sent 14mm bolts, which gave a little clearance.

Whether fine thread of coarse, you'll have a hard time finding either 14mm or 9/16" at any hardware store anywhere. Its more of a special order item from a place like Fastenal, Grainger, McMaster, MSC, etc. If you're concerned about them failing, carry spares. Even with grade 5, I would not be scared about them failing.

Edited by cknaffle, 30 April 2012 - 08:50 AM.