90 replies to this topic

[blue_sniper_fox]

*UPDATE* I finally got a chance to work on the diagnosing the problem. My buddy came over to give me a hand on checking the timing and when I cranked it to let him hear what was going on we had a loud pop. Now there is a strong smell of gas in the engine oil.

[Bobbing]

*UPDATE* I finally got a chance to work on the diagnosing the problem. My buddy came over to give me a hand on checking the timing and when I cranked it to let him hear what was going on we had a loud pop. Now there is a strong smell of gas in the engine oil.

Yeah that would be normal for an engine that is misfiring. The fuel is washing down the cylinders into the crankcase.

[blue_sniper_fox]

*UPDATE* I finally got a chance to work on the diagnosing the problem. My buddy came over to give me a hand on checking the timing and when I cranked it to let him hear what was going on we had a loud pop. Now there is a strong smell of gas in the engine oil.

Yeah that would be normal for an engine that is misfiring. The fuel is washing down the cylinders into the crankcase.

Ok alot of people have told me and I've read a few things saying it could be blown rings or valve seals. Everything we looked at for the timing looks good. I'm going to have to do a compression test and see if maybe there is an internal problem.

[Bobbing]

I don't know if you replaced the coil already but I had a day where my truck would not fire up. I was getting spark and could not figure it out. It turned out the coil was not building up enough voltage to ignite the fuel because the secondary windings had failed in the coil.

[blue_sniper_fox]

I don't know if you replaced the coil already but I had a day where my truck would not fire up. I was getting spark and could not figure it out. It turned out the coil was not building up enough voltage to ignite the fuel because the secondary windings had failed in the coil.

hmm could be a possibility, Any way to test the coil to see if that would be the problem or just pick up one and try it like that. The ACDelco ones from Advance Auto are around 62.99 so that is not really a bad price. I may go ahead and pick one up for Sh*ts and giggles and try it anyways. If I get a chance I'l post a video of the truck cranking so you all can hear what it sounds like and maybe be able to give some easier advice that way.

[Bobbing]

I don't know if you replaced the coil already but I had a day where my truck would not fire up. I was getting spark and could not figure it out. It turned out the coil was not building up enough voltage to ignite the fuel because the secondary windings had failed in the coil.

hmm could be a possibility, Any way to test the coil to see if that would be the problem or just pick up one and try it like that. The ACDelco ones from Advance Auto are around 62.99 so that is not really a bad price. I may go ahead and pick one up for Sh*ts and giggles and try it anyways. If I get a chance I'l post a video of the truck cranking so you all can hear what it sounds like and maybe be able to give some easier advice that way.

I use a spark testing tool that has an adjustable gap. It takes the place of a spark plug. You set the gap .060 and then crank the motor to see if it can jump the gap.

[blue_sniper_fox]

I don't know if you replaced the coil already but I had a day where my truck would not fire up. I was getting spark and could not figure it out. It turned out the coil was not building up enough voltage to ignite the fuel because the secondary windings had failed in the coil.

hmm could be a possibility, Any way to test the coil to see if that would be the problem or just pick up one and try it like that. The ACDelco ones from Advance Auto are around 62.99 so that is not really a bad price. I may go ahead and pick one up for Sh*ts and giggles and try it anyways. If I get a chance I'l post a video of the truck cranking so you all can hear what it sounds like and maybe be able to give some easier advice that way.

I use a spark testing tool that has an adjustable gap. It takes the place of a spark plug. You set the gap .060 and then crank the motor to see if it can jump the gap.

I ended up buying a new coil and throwing it on there for the h*ll of it. Also bought a spark plug tester as well and still nothing. I get good fire from all 6 plugs even swapped out the set thinking maybe they went bad for some odd reason. Did a compression test and I'm within the 140-160 mostly staying around 150 after cranking. I've seriously ran out of ideas of what could be wrong with it. I took a video so everyone could hear what she sounds like when its cranking, maybe you could tell something off that.

[Skitch]

Holy shit....this has sure turned into a parts fest.

Maybe get someone to look at it with a fresh outlook and take it one step at a time from the beginning and
don't skip the basics. Don't forget to check electrical connectios for corrosion and the contition of the main engine
ground wire. Sometimes it can look like it's alright but be corroded inside.

Did you see what the fuel pressure is while your trying to crank it? Can't rule out new parts.
Just say the pump builds to 60psi but can't maintain voulme...pressure will drop. A clogger filter could let it build
pressure but not enough volume to run the engine....pressure test would show that.

Hope you get it going soon and really courious what it turns out to be.

You have a pissed off GF or anyone that might of put shit in your tank? Go all CSI on that fucker...LOL

[rustyg]

Sounds like it wants to fire, very curious what it could be at this point as well. Good luck

[blue_sniper_fox]

Holy shit....this has sure turned into a parts fest.

Maybe get someone to look at it with a fresh outlook and take it one step at a time from the beginning and
don't skip the basics. Don't forget to check electrical connectios for corrosion and the contition of the main engine
ground wire. Sometimes it can look like it's alright but be corroded inside.

Did you see what the fuel pressure is while your trying to crank it? Can't rule out new parts.
Just say the pump builds to 60psi but can't maintain voulme...pressure will drop. A clogger filter could let it build
pressure but not enough volume to run the engine....pressure test would show that.

Hope you get it going soon and really courious what it turns out to be.

You have a pissed off GF or anyone that might of put shit in your tank? Go all CSI on that fucker...LOL

Yea 60psi constant when I jump it over at the relay. Also you can hear it pressure up and kick open the injectors when priming for start. The truck used to idle if you fed gas through the intake but now it won't even turn over as you can hear from the video. Once in a while it will try and start and idle for a few seconds after feeding it fuel so IDK. Everything as far as the fuel system is new. I completely drained the tank again, new filter again, and had recently replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the new Injector set up. Also did a compression test yesterday with good compression and spark plugs out of my buddies Z. His were working when we put them in and the P4's I took out of mine started up fine in his.


**New Parts I've Installed**
Bosch Platinum+4 Spark Plugs
ACDelco Distributor Cap
ACDelco Distributor Rotor
ACDelco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
ACDelco Ignition Coil
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
ACDelco Camshaft Position Sensor
ACDelco Fuel Pump
ACDelco Electronic Ignition Control Module
Fuel Filter
ACDelco Central Sequential Multiport Fuel Injector with Fuel Pressure Regulator
Thermostat
ACDelco Mass Air Flow Sensor



**Parts Tested to be good**
Crank Sensor
MAP Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor

**Other Stats**
Fuel Pressure maintains 60psi when jumped over at relay
Compression Test was around 150 when cranking

[blue_sniper_fox]

Sounds like it wants to fire, very curious what it could be at this point as well. Good luck

I'm running out of ideas of what it could be. I'm ready to just pull the motor and drop in something else.

[Bobbing]

If you have adequate fuel pressure and spark, then all I can think of is you have a large vacuum leak or the timing chain has jumped.
Turn the engine by hand a full revolution in the normal direction and slowly stop at TDC as indicated on crank damper.....Then pull distributor cap and observe the rotor as you slowly turn the engine backwards.....stop turning the engine as soon as the distributor rotor begins to move. Then look at the crank damper and read how many degrees the engine rotated before the rotor moved......If its more than 6-8 degrees it means it's time to change the timing chain

[Bobbing]

Do you have an anti theft system in that vehicle?

[blue_sniper_fox]

Do you have an anti theft system in that vehicle?

Yes anti-theft but the light doesn't come on or anything. We also checked the timing before and there wasn't a problem there either. What makes it so difficult to figure out is nothing I am doing is changing my outcome either way. Also the truck ran perfect until I parked it for 2 weeks then went to start it and she spit and sputtered like it was down on power and didn't want to move even at full throttle. I backed up maybe 10ft and it died out and has not ran since.

Edited by blue_sniper_fox, 20 December 2011 - 07:15 PM.

[bubba68ss]

I didn't read the whole thread, but my Jimmy wouldn't start and when I put the plug tester on I was getting crazy flashing.

Replaced cap and rotor with quality parts and started right up.


This is what it looked like

[blue_sniper_fox]

I didn't read the whole thread, but my Jimmy wouldn't start and when I put the plug tester on I was getting crazy flashing.

Replaced cap and rotor with quality parts and started right up.


This is what it looked like

I already replaced the Cap and Rotor with a brand new Delco unit. Also new Delco wires and everything else that has to do with the firing system.

[Bobbing]

Pull the distributor and check the gear for wear and the shaft for worn bushings.

Distributor Replacement

[rockininthezr2488]

Holy shit....this has sure turned into a parts fest.

Maybe get someone to look at it with a fresh outlook and take it one step at a time from the beginning and
don't skip the basics. Don't forget to check electrical connectios for corrosion and the contition of the main engine
ground wire. Sometimes it can look like it's alright but be corroded inside.

Did you see what the fuel pressure is while your trying to crank it? Can't rule out new parts.
Just say the pump builds to 60psi but can't maintain voulme...pressure will drop. A clogger filter could let it build
pressure but not enough volume to run the engine....pressure test would show that.

Hope you get it going soon and really courious what it turns out to be.

You have a pissed off GF or anyone that might of put shit in your tank? Go all CSI on that fucker...LOL

Yea 60psi constant when I jump it over at the relay. Also you can hear it pressure up and kick open the injectors when priming for start. The truck used to idle if you fed gas through the intake but now it won't even turn over as you can hear from the video. Once in a while it will try and start and idle for a few seconds after feeding it fuel so IDK. Everything as far as the fuel system is new. I completely drained the tank again, new filter again, and had recently replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the new Injector set up. Also did a compression test yesterday with good compression and spark plugs out of my buddies Z. His were working when we put them in and the P4's I took out of mine started up fine in his.


**New Parts I've Installed**
Bosch Platinum+4 Spark Plugs
ACDelco Distributor Cap
ACDelco Distributor Rotor
ACDelco Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
ACDelco Ignition Coil
ACDelco Spark Plug Wire Set
ACDelco Camshaft Position Sensor
ACDelco Fuel Pump
ACDelco Electronic Ignition Control Module
Fuel Filter
ACDelco Central Sequential Multiport Fuel Injector with Fuel Pressure Regulator
Thermostat
ACDelco Mass Air Flow Sensor



**Parts Tested to be good**
Crank Sensor
MAP Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor

**Other Stats**
Fuel Pressure maintains 60psi when jumped over at relay
Compression Test was around 150 when cranking

Dude, why didn't you take it to a shop in the first place. You've replaced nearly everything and considering you replaced a couple of things, after replacing what you think is causing the problem, there comes a time to let a/the professional take a look at it. More to come from me. Trying to help. I'm having similar problems, but I've got to read the "articles" I've missed since I last got on here.

[rockininthezr2488]

Nvm. I see Now that you did not actually replace #many parts, just did a swap of them with a buddy to see if any of them were bad. Got it. I'm doing my research now to consider other possible avenues you and I could take.

P.S. My truck actually Starts occasionally. It's being finicky right now and I can't figure out what it is. I did take off a component from my "security system" a few months back, I will say, but I can't see how that would affect the starting on an #intermittent basis.

Are you running a #Lean condition For Sure, blue_sniper_fox, or could it be running on the #Rich side? I ask because that could mean two Completely different things. If you have a richly fuel burned smell in your upper intake AND quite possibly have some (as is often the case with a Rich Fuel Mixture system) slightly-to-completely caked burned fuel in your upper intake, you have a Richly Burning Fuel System. Also, does your truck ever start, and, how long have you been having this problem?

[rockininthezr2488]

Also @Bobbing, I did not create a thread for my trucks problems because I don't see a need for #Competing threads for rather similar issues. If one of us can figure out one of our problems, I'm thinking it could help the other.

Also, regarding timing, I find it HIGHLY unlikely that you, or I, have a timing problem, blue_sniper_fox. Timing issues on these engines are few and far between based off of what I know of this engine, and what I've seen. The 4.3l is a tight, well-built engine with small/slight issues that often surround it, i.e. motor mounts, vacuum leaks, spark problems (normal of many vehicles - maintenance issues -distributor cap, wires, plugs). I will say, I often (as mentioned before) have and do see MANY mechanics talk about how the CPI (fuel management components - injectors, fuel containment cell (which holds fuel between fuel pressure regulator and injectors themselves), and fuel pressure regulator), but RARELY have I actually seen or heard of where someone NEEDED to replace the CPI; often times the CPI gets replaced in a mechanic's bias to blame it on that but rarely does it fix the problem, so much as it is the OTHER item they replace with it at the same time. I want to say vacuum leak, but with a vacuum leak you often see a LEAN condition near the spark plugs, and there is SUCH a fine line in vacuum leaks, that the vacuum leak would be so GREAT to cause the truck to NOT start, but not set a code off at the same time.

My ex-g/f's Ford truck (Explorer sport - truck-edition) had a tiny vacuum leak once that caused it to idle funny and "hesitate" a little if exposed to the right amount of throttle; Yet it didn't prevent the truck from cranking, and, I want to say it caused the truck to send off the MIL/C.E.S. lamp, but, unfortunately I can't recall if the latter half of that is true. I wish I could remember in regards to the CES/MIL lamp but I can't be sure of that as of now.