45 replies to this topic

[jwwaldschmidt]

I would avoid putting a fuel tank in the passenger compartment at all costs.

Find a local fab shop, have them give you an estimate. It won't be cheap.

Post up a few pictures of where the Blazer fuel tank is, and how it is mounted. I'm not familiar with it.

[QuickSilverAWD]

While you are at it, take it to a good drift shop or find someone that rents out a fender roller tool. You could throw some much bigger tires on there now without the flares.

[Hiddenfarce]

About the charcoal canister, (evaporate emissions right?) i took off the two or so inches of excess metal above it and i was going to flip it onto its side and tack weld a mount for it...i was positioning the metal hoses into the body to get them out of the way and the thicker one snapped...(several curse words) so i took the other two hoses off and positioned em in there, all separate from each other. I had no idea what was about to happen, I started her up...ran fine, revved fine, service engine light DID NOT come on. Not sure what to think, anybody think this will mess with MPG and engine? or am i just not going to be able to pass emissions?

Even though those lines are just for evaporation of fuel, the light may not show until a change in temp or usage. The conditions that set that code off may not be present right now but will happen eventually.

I'd do the same thing you were going to do just replace the plastic tubes with fuel line hose. On some models of blazers they replaced those with rubber hose from the factory. That tubing get brittle and breaks very easily and is a common headache. The dealer charges like $200+ for the replacements lines which includes the aluminum lines back to the tank. When mine broke I just replaced it with the canister-side snap connectors from a junkyard donor and some rubber hose to extend the lines since I just needed more length and did not need to relocate the canister. You could just stick the hose on the nipples on the canister and hose clamp it. Just remember each nipple is a different size so make sure they match up. For this part all 4.3 blazers are the same from probably 1995 to 2005, 2 and 4 doors. If the canister nipple broke then just grab the whole thing form the junk yard for a few bucks.

[bradicalZR2]

While you are at it, take it to a good drift shop or find someone that rents out a fender roller tool. You could throw some much bigger tires on there now without the flares.

a fender roller tool? what is that? Oh yeah ive got those 235s on the stock rims for highway/economical...ive got a set of off road rims with some k'ed out 31s...im trying to find some halfway decent 33s off craigslist, do you think 33s would rub? im currently in the process of giving the front end about an inch and a half t bar crank...

[bradicalZR2]

About the charcoal canister, (evaporate emissions right?) i took off the two or so inches of excess metal above it and i was going to flip it onto its side and tack weld a mount for it...i was positioning the metal hoses into the body to get them out of the way and the thicker one snapped...(several curse words) so i took the other two hoses off and positioned em in there, all separate from each other. I had no idea what was about to happen, I started her up...ran fine, revved fine, service engine light DID NOT come on. Not sure what to think, anybody think this will mess with MPG and engine? or am i just not going to be able to pass emissions?

Even though those lines are just for evaporation of fuel, the light may not show until a change in temp or usage. The conditions that set that code off may not be present right now but will happen eventually.

I'd do the same thing you were going to do just replace the plastic tubes with fuel line hose. On some models of blazers they replaced those with rubber hose from the factory. That tubing get brittle and breaks very easily and is a common headache. The dealer charges like $200+ for the replacements lines which includes the aluminum lines back to the tank. When mine broke I just replaced it with the canister-side snap connectors from a junkyard donor and some rubber hose to extend the lines since I just needed more length and did not need to relocate the canister. You could just stick the hose on the nipples on the canister and hose clamp it. Just remember each nipple is a different size so make sure they match up. For this part all 4.3 blazers are the same from probably 1995 to 2005, 2 and 4 doors. If the canister nipple broke then just grab the whole thing form the junk yard for a few bucks.

thank you very much for the info on the evap box...will not having it hurt my engine/power/mpg in any way?

[ducksface]

I had considered doing as you did, but now that I see it I won't be doing it. I'm back to the original plan of a rolled rear pan if the need arises, and custom tube bumper if my tire carrier rips itself off of the truck.
I'm not sure how much angle you gained. Those shackles still hang down quite a bit. I'd be surprised [but I surprise easily] if you gained two degrees, and now you have exposed your tank to a ready puncture. I say this because whatever you bent the rear sheet metal on before will now be up against that tank...or through it.

I'm kind of from the school of 'until I tear it off, no need to take it off'. This varies at times, but that is the general plan.

[QuickSilverAWD]

While you are at it, take it to a good drift shop or find someone that rents out a fender roller tool. You could throw some much bigger tires on there now without the flares.

a fender roller tool? what is that? Oh yeah ive got those 235s on the stock rims for highway/economical...ive got a set of off road rims with some k'ed out 31s...im trying to find some halfway decent 33s off craigslist, do you think 33s would rub? im currently in the process of giving the front end about an inch and a half t bar crank...

Considering what you have already done, I would roll the fenders before I considered cranking the t-bars.

Edited by QuickSilverAWD, 20 September 2011 - 01:39 AM.

[bradicalZR2]

While you are at it, take it to a good drift shop or find someone that rents out a fender roller tool. You could throw some much bigger tires on there now without the flares.

a fender roller tool? what is that? Oh yeah ive got those 235s on the stock rims for highway/economical...ive got a set of off road rims with some k'ed out 31s...im trying to find some halfway decent 33s off craigslist, do you think 33s would rub? im currently in the process of giving the front end about an inch and a half t bar crank...

Considering what you have already done, I would roll the fenders before I considered cranking the t-bars.

Thats a pretty snazzy lil device, i dont have much to roll out tho i grinded all the lip off

[bradicalZR2]

I had considered doing as you did, but now that I see it I won't be doing it. I'm back to the original plan of a rolled rear pan if the need arises, and custom tube bumper if my tire carrier rips itself off of the truck.
I'm not sure how much angle you gained. Those shackles still hang down quite a bit. I'd be surprised [but I surprise easily] if you gained two degrees, and now you have exposed your tank to a ready puncture. I say this because whatever you bent the rear sheet metal on before will now be up against that tank...or through it.

I'm kind of from the school of 'until I tear it off, no need to take it off'. This varies at times, but that is the general plan.

Well your trailer hitch hangs down and out a whole lot, yes i suppose it also serves as a sort of skid plate for the tank but i gained a lot of clearence by taking it all off, ill take some side pictures within the week

[bradicalZR2]

heres the side pic you guys wanted....

 IMG00099_20110922_1813.jpg   456.02K   44 downloads

also heres a pic of my bumper and trailer hitch keeping me from ascending a fins and things slickrock in moab

 223168_2052708961053_1344409273_2407298_5066102_n.jpg   81.41K   63 downloads

[Jamaroon]

thanks for the pic!

[bradicalZR2]

thanks for the pic!

you got it man

[Highrider24/7]

I really like the custom bumper that clemson put up - im going to get a quote on how much this would cost to actautlly do. I love that look!

Edited by Highrider24/7, 06 October 2011 - 12:24 PM.

[sapperb]

I like this trim

I am so dig'n this bumpa....

[bigblockbilly]

I like this trim

I am so dig'n this bumpa....

x2.

I'd like to do this to my Blazer2 with the addition of a split swingout tire carrier, jerrycan, gear mount mount.

Problem is the Blazers lower plastic extends back from the quarter panels like this.

Anyone know if pickup plastic will fit on a Blazer2?

 8308988_1.jpg   57.84K   17 downloads

[N2O_ZR2]

Anyone know if pickup plastic will fit on a Blazer2?

The pickups are all steel, no bumper extensions.

[ReDnekZ]

Anyone know if pickup plastic will fit on a Blazer2?

The pickups are all steel, no bumper extensions.

what about the 94-97s?

[ducksface]

Here's how to do a rolled pan on a Blazer


http://www.orrcomanu...om/ecc_abs.html

I didn't buy this because I want a rolled one without a license frame.

Edited by ducksface, 24 April 2012 - 10:26 PM.

[xtrmes10]

Anyone know if pickup plastic will fit on a Blazer2?

The pickups are all steel, no bumper extensions.

what about the 94-97s?

Nope still steel.

[N2O_ZR2]

Anyone know if pickup plastic will fit on a Blazer2?

The pickups are all steel, no bumper extensions.

what about the 94-97s?

Nope still steel.

Yes and no. They have some pointy plastic endcaps that fit over the corners of the bed.