34 replies to this topic

[jwwaldschmidt]

On the radiator debate -

If you're willing to spend some dough, Current Performance sells a VERY nice all-aluminum V8 swap radiator. It's designed for an LSx swap, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work with a 350. Expensive, though.

[6speedblazer]

On the radiator debate -

If you're willing to spend some dough, Current Performance sells a VERY nice all-aluminum V8 swap radiator. It's designed for an LSx swap, but I see no reason why it wouldn't work with a 350. Expensive, though.

[img]http://i273.photobuc...dt/IMAG0127.jpg[img]
[img]http://i273.photobuc...dt/IMAG0126.jpg[img]
[img]http://i273.photobuc...dt/IMAG0125.jpg[img]

they also sell one that has the propper hose locations for a SBC

[LAZYMON]

Good to have the site back up. Very nice rad and fans but OUCH! $815.

So I turned the key the other day and it fired right up. Yeah! Running a little rough though. Hooked up my ODBII connector to my laptop program. I ran through open loop and closed loop and did not get any codes. Idle goes up and down a little but keeps running. Program shows that at idle 600-700 the timing is 15-16. Just not running right, could the dizzy be off one tooth? Thought it would throw a code if that was the case? I know it is not out 180, checked, double and triple checked that.

[LAZYMON]

Cooling. I mounted a couple ten inch fans as pullers. Stock radiator. Clearance is tight but they fit. Drove around a bit and kept cool, fans come on at 185.

Exhaust for now. I cut the stock Y pipe and put a small piece of flexible pipe to join back together and clamped. Cut off flanges on the pipes and used adapters, flex pipe and clamps to connect. I will eventually take it to a muffler shop and get it done right.

No engine codes yet but does not idle well and bogs out somewhat. Not sure what the problem is, thoughts? I stopped by a shop for another opinion, the guy thought everything sounded right but could not tell me why it was idling badly. He wants to put it on his machine and charge me $90.
What else should I look at before paying the man?

[BLACK96regcabHighrider]

Cooling. I mounted a couple ten inch fans as pullers. Stock radiator. Clearance is tight but they fit. Drove around a bit and kept cool, fans come on at 185.

Exhaust for now. I cut the stock Y pipe and put a small piece of flexible pipe to join back together and clamped. Cut off flanges on the pipes and used adapters, flex pipe and clamps to connect. I will eventually take it to a muffler shop and get it done right.

No engine codes yet but does not idle well and bogs out somewhat. Not sure what the problem is, thoughts? I stopped by a shop for another opinion, the guy thought everything sounded right but could not tell me why it was idling badly. He wants to put it on his machine and charge me $90.
What else should I look at before paying the man?

Does it bog down while the engine is cool/warmed up? In gear or does it matter?

I'm assuming your still running an EGR? If so, if it is stuck open or closed it can cause an engine to bog down in gear when you put your foot on the brake.

Not sure if there's a Goodwrench around you, but here Goodwrench charges $40 to diagnose with a Tech II scanner vs the dealer charging $90(1hr labor).

Good luck

[LAZYMON]

Bogs down only at idle, in park or gear, warm or cold. If I am moving and step on it it doesn't, but is lacking some power.
Egr removed and blocked with plate. Nearest dealer is 30 miles away, no one in town has a Tech II.

[LAZYMON]

Paid the man.
He did a case relearn, took apart and cleaned the MAF, had to ovalize the distributor hold down braket hole to get the cam sensor angle to 0, found vacuum leak coming from the connector on the intake manifold to the brake booster, I didn't have it clicked in all the way. But the worst thing he found was there is a a crack in the upper manifold plenum at the rear by distributor. I must be stupid because I never saw this when I had it apart. So now I either need to buy a new plenum or try to fix this one. I was thinking JB Weld might work.
Almost there.

[BLACK96regcabHighrider]

Paid the man.
He did a case relearn, took apart and cleaned the MAF, had to ovalize the distributor hold down braket hole to get the cam sensor angle to 0, found vacuum leak coming from the connector on the intake manifold to the brake booster, I didn't have it clicked in all the way. But the worst thing he found was there is a a crack in the upper manifold plenum at the rear by distributor. I must be stupid because I never saw this when I had it apart. So now I either need to buy a new plenum or try to fix this one. I was thinking JB Weld might work.
Almost there.

Good to hear.
I have no clue what shipping would be to CA, but I could get you a used plenum for next to nothing if you wanted.

[LAZYMON]

Thanks for the offer. I am going to try a repair on it first. Also found brand new one for $50 on ebay including shipping. I drove it home last night and it flew down the road pretty good, even with the intake leak.
Good luck with yours.

[LAZYMON]

I fixed the leak on the manifold and Idles smooth as butter now. Took it for a drive and ran great! Up and over mountain pass without any issues. Temps never got over 195. It feels good to be driving the ZR2 with the 350 in it that should have came from the factory that way.
Next step is get a better Y pipe built, new high flow cat. I will be going by the local muffler place and let them take a look at it and give me a cost.
What is everybody doing for the flexplate cover? I know this was covered but I can't seem to find it now. Seems like it would be easy to make with a piece of aluminum.

[QuickSilverAWD]

Good to have the site back up. Very nice rad and fans but OUCH! $815.

Do one of these radiators with an intrepid fan setup off ebay. You can haggle with the guy and he sells them for like $350 Shipped but I think I offered him $300 Shipped and he took it.
http://www.wwwsuperi...rsion_radiators

http://www.ebay.com/...=item256a94e924

Edited by QuickSilverAWD, 05 January 2012 - 06:46 PM.

[LAZYMON]

Driven about 2000 miles since the swap. First problem I had was with the injector pod pins, a couple were not fully seated causing poor performance, fixed that and it ran great until just the other day. Looked at pod wiring again and it looks ok. Seems to run on all 8 then 6 or 7 then 8 again kind of intermitently. I may try and find a pod that hasn't had the pins pulled in and out of.

Still running the stock modified exhaust. Plans are having a 2.5 Y pipe made, 3" cat, Hooker Aerochamber 3" in dual 2.5 out with tips out the back.

Gas mileage sucks so far, 12mpg around town. Was getting 14.5 with the 4.3.

Worth the swap? YES! But I would not do it unless the 4.3 was bad. Unless you have extra time and money.

[BLACK96regcabHighrider]

Did you look to see if your plug wires are arcing anywhere? Especially the coil wire.

My gas mileage has bumped up a bit after doing a fuel filter swap. I was at 14, last tank was 16mpg mixed city and hwy.

I have an extra v8 pod plug with the wires still in it if you have trouble getting one.

[LAZYMON]

Hey all. I just thought I would give you an update since I did the swap. Other rides are parked for the winter and the ZR2 is coming out to play now.
It is running great! Put a new injector pod in, thanks BLACK96regcabHighrider. Also found burnt number 1 wire under my heat sock causing issues.
I am still running stock exhaust with modified Y. Shops in California won't build me a new Y pipe.

[GreenChevelleSS]

Order a flowmaster Y then take that to a muffler shop then all they have to do is bend pipes to fix and weld.