254 replies to this topic

[OOBER]

It is pretty good. I really need to spend more time with it.

The pilot arc on the plazma part of it quit working a while ago and I haven't been able to figure it out yet. It works if I drag start it though.

The tig works pretty well, but there are so many freakin knobs on the front of it that it takes me 1 hour to remind myself how to work it before I can make a 2" aluminum weld to get a project done.

Haven't had the need to stick weld with it yet.

If I had more money to sink into a welder, I would rather have a separate plazma and tig welder. It takes too long to switch between the two. 20 knobs, 4 line connections, and changing from compressed air to argon or vise versa takes a while. That is part of the reason behind my manifold with valves so I can switch between the two.


I have surfed the forum a couple of times, but it has been a while.

[OOBER]

Since I no longer have school occupying a large part of my limited brain capacity and time. It is amazing what I can get done in a normal day now.

Most of the stuff I worked on was on the house so no fun there.

I did drive the ol' girl around though and decided it is time...for her to go under the knife :evil:

I hate to cut up a classic, but you only live once. Aftermarket sheet metal is readily available :flipoff2:

Came across this sweeeet cage build on a '67 race truck. I only wish I could do as good of a job as he did. Sweet '67

Before pics:

19" to the bottom of the t-case

23.5" to the bottom of the frame under the pax door on 37's (I pulled out the old CrAzYBlAzE pics and the blazer was 24" to the bottom of the frame on 40's with a flat belly)

Hope to lose ~3" at the frame and gain ~3" at the bottom of the t-case.


~39.5 bottom of tailgate


~12.5 from top of axle to bottom of frame

Rides like a brick...check out that leaf pack...


My helper wanted in on some of the action. This shows how many holes and sketchy brackets are on the part of the frame that I want to cut off.


Hopefully if the truck ends up lower, it will have better driveline angles front and rear. I also hope to raise the rear of the t-case to be at least even with the bottom of the frame. The t-case/tranny could go up a good 5-6" and still not contact the bottom of the body.

The exhaust is pretty much has got to go. But, by raising the t-case, the exhaust will be able to route up higher and will fix some of space conflicts.


There is definitely some trimming in order...




Lots of potential here






The plans:

1. Cut off frame a little behind the rear axle :grinpimp:
2. build new rear frame out of 2x4 C or Box (haven't decided yet)
3. Remove rear 14 and put it under the knife (welded tubes,truss,locker, beefed diff cover, new shock mounts)
4. Mount and install Chevy 63's
5. Make some Uber bling flat biller desert racing shackles
6. Sweet bump stops (sweetness depends on budget at the time)
7. Move rear springs up front
8. Throw locked D60 up front
9. Sweet tube/plate rear bumper
10. Reinstall fuel tank under rear frame (since the new frame ID will be wider, the tank will fit up higher)
11. Super bling tank skid plate
12. Ummm, didn't get that far yet

The plan is to lower the truck, give it more flex, make it ride better, and allow me to beat the crap out of it without breaking. Simple huh?

[N2O_ZR2]

What are your plans for the absurd frame flex these trucks have?

That's one thing I'm not sure what to do about on mine.

[OOBER]

What are your plans for the absurd frame flex these trucks have?

That's one thing I'm not sure what to do about on mine.

Not 100% sure yet. I have a general plan though.




Think I'm in over my head? ...naaa



What about now? ...maybe :flipoff2:



Now? ...I think so





Taking a lunch break now. It is getting HOT real fast. I am going to close the garage doors and open the a/c vent while I am making all of the brackets that I should have made before I cut anything off...

The tail end of the frame is going to end up being 2x3" box by 3/16" wall because I have 25ft of it in the garage already. I couldn't believe how much the factory frame flexed when I was beating on it trying to get the spring bolts out (which still aren't out yet).

I knew this day off from work was going to get me into trouble

[jwwaldschmidt]

Awesome work man. You went to Pitt State, correct?

A buddy of mine named Seth recognized your name and your old Blazer, he has a '96-'97 body style Jimmy that he had an IFS lift on, and just recently went to an ORD Leaf swap. He went to Pitt State as well.

Hope I can see this thing in person some day, I love that body style.

[OOBER]

Awesome work man. You went to Pitt State, correct?

A buddy of mine named Seth recognized your name and your old Blazer, he has a '96-'97 body style Jimmy that he had an IFS lift on, and just recently went to an ORD Leaf swap. He went to Pitt State as well.

Hope I can see this thing in person some day, I love that body style.

Ya, I went to Pitt. I remember Seth.

I hope to not mess up the "nostalgia" of the truck. The plan is for it to end up classic yet modernized.




I am WORN OUT!



Relief cuts


Old and new. I will cap the ends off when I build the bumper onto the new frame.


Welded inside and outside.


KISS Method. Simple and light.






If I would have bought premade brackets the springs would already be done, but of course I had to choose the hard way.

I gotta pick up some new u-bolts and stuff. Hopefully I can work on it again sometime soon.

[N2O_ZR2]

What is the reason for not mounting the springs outboard of the frame?

[OOBER]

I am copying the old design that I used to have on the blazer.

By inboarding the springs I can get rid of all of the big factory brackets and I will be able to outboard the shocks.


One thing that I didn't notice that is going to cause me a lot of work is that the wheel well doesn't start at the frame, it starts ~5" outside from the frame. Because of that I will have to do something to the wheelwells. On the blazer, the shocks could go up into the wheelwells because they started right at the frame.

Simple and flexy

[N2O_ZR2]

One thing that I didn't notice that is going to cause me a lot of work is that the wheel well doesn't start at the frame, it starts ~5" outside from the frame. Because of that I will have to do something to the wheelwells.

The 2wd guys mini-tub them all the time, hardly noticeable in the bed if done right. I would imagine if you didn't need the shock tower to be higher than the wheel well it should work.


http://67-72chevytru...ad.php?t=489569

[CrashKnott]

Lookin good OOB! Keep up the good work!!!

[OOBER]

One thing that I didn't notice that is going to cause me a lot of work is that the wheel well doesn't start at the frame, it starts ~5" outside from the frame. Because of that I will have to do something to the wheelwells.

The 2wd guys mini-tub them all the time, hardly noticeable in the bed if done right. I would imagine if you didn't need the shock tower to be higher than the wheel well it should work.


http://67-72chevytru...ad.php?t=489569

Genius!

The problem is... I started cutting on this truck and now I know I won't be able to stop until I have a 500hp rock buggy with a full roll cage, bedcage, suspension seats, 5 point harnesses, 1 tons, lockers, etc.

Ugh, here we go again...

[OOBER]

I think this always happens because I continuously read stuff like this:

http://www.race-deze...odge-30219.html



And this build by Whitetruck on Pirate

http://www.pirate4x4.......7749&page=2



I like both of the above but mine would still have rock sliders. I have to keep reminding myself that I live in Kansas and there are way more trees/rocks/mud than sand.


I still hold true to my original end goal:

I want this to be a DO IT ALL vehicle. Reliable daily driver, drive down the highway, take it to mud drags, go to the dunes, and kill some mustangs (If I don't win the race I will just have to lock the hubs and run over them :flipoff2:)

I may still be a couple of years away from that though....

[jwwaldschmidt]

Yeah, the lack of sand is a

[OOBER]

Got new bushings in the 63's, and am about half done spending entirely too long feathering the ends of the leaves.



I'm curious to see if it helps out at all



~3" lower in the rear and almost out of BGTL. In this pic it is sitting on the 63's but I have not made the front hangers yet.


Still have A LOT more to do but at least it is almost sitting on its own weight.

I am super excited now, it should turn out sweet.

[rennat_2006]

What's the benefit of "feathering" the leaves like you did?

[OOBER]

Hmm, good question.

The leaves have to rub against each other in order to flex. So the theory is that by cutting off the sharp corners and grinding all of the top edges of the leaf smooth, it creates lower friction between the leaves.

I guess I can't really explain it all that well, I have seen it done before and never tried it. Thought I would try something new this go'round.



In addition to that, the leaves were pretty worn and the wear pads at the end of the leaves were shot. I didn't want to go buy new ones so I am following the theme of trying to build everything in house.

[CrashKnott]

I did something similar with a set of of 52's back in the day OOB....seemed to work out well, but I waffled the springs before I could get any benefit from the feathering. I needed an anti-wrap bar more than I needed smooth springs movement.

What's BGTL?

[jwwaldschmidt]

Big Gay Truck Land? That's my guess.

[OOBER]

Big Gay Truck Land? That's my guess.

Yep.



Helped a buddy pick up a 83? fullsize chevy 1 ton flatbed last weekend. Hopefully I can convince him to take it wheeling.




I finally got my refund for the rear locker and immediately spent it on U-bolts/perches/plates front and rear from WFO for the axles.


The rear 14 is in the garage about to get stripped/tubes welded/trussed/locked.

[OOBER]

I did something today! WooHoo

ORB of traction



Leaf spring brackets and reinforcements. The plazma saved A LOT of time on this one.





Not quite as pretty as some, but I would say it will probably work.



Gettin closer...