163 replies to this topic

[Sputnik360]

If there is enough interest in this product, I will be willing to make 10 of them at a time. I will cut it off after the first ten people who are 100% sure that they will purchase one. I'm selling a 10 gauge steel front skid plate. It is bent and welded by me. It replaces the factory front skid plate with absolutely no modifications. It uses the same 6 bolts to hold it on. This eliminates the design flaw from GM that puts our oil filter and oil lines directly above a flimsy composite skid plate. And those of you with body lifts most likely realize that your skid plate now rubs on your oil lines. This replacement skid plate keeps away from the oil lines. It drastically increases strength from the composite and aluminum skid plates while still keeping excess weight at a minimum. These will ship in a primered grey due to my horrible paint skills.









I'm only asking $100 + shipping for each skid plate. If you are 100% sure you will buy one, I will put you on a list. Once that list reaches 10 people, I will accept payments in full before producing and shipping skid plates. If someone on the top 10 backs out, the next person who wants that spot gets it, pending the time of the back-out. If you have any questions please feel free to ask away

Edited by Sputnik360, 22 June 2010 - 06:05 PM.

[ducksface]

YOU NEED TO EITHER MAKE THE CUTS FOR THE WINCH MOUNT, OR PROVIDE A TEMPLATE FOR THE END CONSUMER TO MAKE THE CUTS FOR THE WINCH MOUNT.

Sorry for the screaming. Chris wouldn't modify the mount to fit the skid, so you'll have to modify the skid. Chances are if they had money for the winch mount, they'll have money for this also. Winch mount guys will add about 150% to your buyer pool.

I think I paid $135 or $151 for my factory skid at the dealer... Factory skid was Way more money, Way less skid.

I'd have bought one from you instead of making my own. My mounts alone for my design were $54

Edited by ducksface, 22 June 2010 - 06:36 PM.

[Sputnik360]

YOU NEED TO EITHER MAKE THE CUTS FOR THE WINCH MOUNT, OR PROVIDE A TEMPLATE FOR THE END CONSUMER TO MAKE THE CUTS FOR THE WINCH MOUNT.

Sorry for the screaming. Chris wouldn't modify the mount to fit the skid, so you'll have to modify the skid. Chances are if you had money for the winch mount, you'll have money for this also. Winch mount guys will add about 150% to your buyer pool.

I think I paid $135 or $151 for my factory skid at the dealer... Factory skid was Way more money, Way less skid.

I'd have bought one from you instead of making my own. My mounts alone for my design were $54

I didn't think about that. I don't run a winch on my truck and have no desire to. Can I see pictures of a winch mount installed without the bumper on? I might be able to get something made up.

[beedle4]

1. Did you confirm it fits with stocker bumper on Mr.Brians rig?
2. Maybe find a local guy with hidden winch to test fit, or offer one at cost if they "mod" it to fit, and give you tons of pics/measurements.

[Sputnik360]

It gets a test fit with the Brian-mobile tomorrow

I have an idea to test with the winch mount.

[beedle4]

Good man.

[Sputnik360]

I can't seem to find a picture that shows the trimming needed with a stock skidplate and a hidden winch mount. Help anyone? Or just a picture without a bumper on.

Edited by Sputnik360, 22 June 2010 - 10:00 PM.

[hunterzr2]

Dammit you have to much good stuff and I dont have enough money. This will have to wait for me for a while.

[ducksface]

 DSC03098.jpg   270.5K   61 downloads
 DSC03093.jpg   258.9K   68 downloads
 DSC03092.jpg   239K   74 downloads
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Sorry about the Zombie goo on the bumper, Damn Zombies, exploding bastards!


There is a better way; Instead of the two individual holes on each side, make it a long slot by cutting out the material between the holes. Then you use about a 7/8 spacer between the frame and the skid and it clears the winch mount. It slightly changes the angle of the rear crossmember bolts, but it's no big deal.

I'd try the way I describe instead of the cuts in the pictures., but both are equally good.

Edited by ducksface, 23 June 2010 - 11:08 AM.

[jwwaldschmidt]

I'm interested. Especially if it takes a few weeks to get everything straightened out with the winch mount, I'll have money by then. If you can make the winch mount fit with no modifications needed by myself, I'm definitely in. This will fit a non-BL'ed truck, correct?

[B_Rich]

I'm interested. Especially if it takes a few weeks to get everything straightened out with the winch mount, I'll have money by then. If you can make the winch mount fit with no modifications needed by myself, I'm definitely in. This will fit a non-BL'ed truck, correct?

That's what we're finding out this afternoon.

I may have to throw some loc-tite on those bolts when we try it on and be like "whoops! Guess we'll just have to leave it on there!"

[tyhuck]

Make sure yo uuse the RED if ur gonna do that.

[Sputnik360]

 DSC03098.jpg   270.5K   61 downloads
 DSC03093.jpg   258.9K   68 downloads
 DSC03092.jpg   239K   74 downloads
 DSC03102.jpg   293.53K   57 downloads



Sorry about the Zombie goo on the bumper, Damn Zombies, exploding bastards!


There is a better way; Instead of the two individual holes on each side, make it a long slot by cutting out the material between the holes. Then you use about a 7/8 spacer between the frame and the skid and it clears the winch mount. It slightly changes the angle of the rear crossmember bolts, but it's no big deal.

I'd try the way I describe instead of the cuts in the pictures., but both are equally good.

Oh boy. I'm pretty sure it will take quite a bit of modification to make it work with that winch. The top section of the plate (after the upper-most bend on the factory plate) goes up about 5" higher. That would put it right into the winch. It would need a completely different design to work efficiently with the winch. If I take that last bend out and just leave it cut at that bend, it would really cut down on the strength.

[ducksface]

It will all ride UNDER the winch mount if you make the slot holes instead of those cuts shown in the picture. If it will clear the back of the bumper, it will clear that winch mount. The factory skid clears the mount when you trim two holes into one hole.

AND the only guy to confirm wanting one [so far] has a winch....

Just slip the skid in place, put the cross member/rear bolts in very loosely, and let the front of it drop about an inch below the mounting holes, while you're holding it up by hand. Picture bolts an inch longer and spacers. That's how it will clear the winch, you just need an inch of 'lower' in the front. While holding it by hand, look up to see the bolt holes. See? They don't quite line up [because of the one inch drop in the front] that's why you slot the front two holes in to one.

Honest, it's an easy easy fix, AND it will allow someone with a bit of frame horn damage to be able to bolt up the skid because of the slot instead of the two distinct holes....

Edited by ducksface, 23 June 2010 - 01:11 PM.

[ducksface]

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Consider making some of these. They are not ZR2 specific...maybe as a thin box the size of a license plate that will hold gloves for the winch....

[ZR2nit]

Hey Mitch look for my thread on how to mount the synergy winch mount. It'll be buried in the unique or accessories sub-forums. There are good pics in there. Would link it but on phone and can't. I would be interested if they fit a BL'ed Z with a winch mount.

[Sputnik360]

I don't think this will work guys:






My skid comes up a lot higher than factory.

[Sputnik360]

nevermind.

Edited by Sputnik360, 23 June 2010 - 05:23 PM.

[SirMALAKHI]

I know im being picky but I need a Oil filter door. If you decide to add one, i will buy one even if it cost a little more.

Edited by SirMALAKHI, 24 June 2010 - 09:25 AM.

[ducksface]

If you don't think it will fit, modify it, or offer two designs if you really like that first one. The only guys to commit have winches. I think it's the 'money then, money now' theory I proposed earlier....

A door is messy, and hard to make/align/hinge/flange/lock. The only difference between a door and not; one bolt to open the door, four bolts to take off a skid. BUT, you can leave your design open on the drivers side and you could reach in and change it.

I am SOOOOOO bad with this search engine that I can't find my own string on the skid plate I made. I can reach through the drivers side on mine to change the filter. No door needed.

You're getting a lot of good input, you may need to go the way Chris did and submit some drawings/pics to us to help tweek a bit.

Edited by ducksface, 24 June 2010 - 12:48 AM.