130 replies to this topic

[jobee85]

I did. page 4 of this topic. I have upgraded the battery now though. but still side post.

http://www.zr2usa.co...o...28442&st=60

[ZR2nit]

I finally got around to doing this. I did all 5 wires with 2 gauge. Noticed a difference. Stays at 14V and drops to 11-12 with 800 Watts of lights on. Going to do AD244 next. No way winch would work with my headlights,fogs,and 4 overheads on. Thanks for the help

[Macs05Z]

I just completed my big 3 upgrade today. After my V8 swap and the ford taurus efan install my in-dash voltmeter showed that I was reading at the mark between 9 and 14. This is when i have the a/c on max and with the fan on at a stoplight. I went to advance auto and bought 2 gauge wire and some eyelet connectors for the 2 gauge wire. First off I left all my stock wiring in place. I have an Optima redtop battery so I used the top posts for this install. First I installed one wire from the positive side of the battery to the alternator power on th eback side. Then I ran a wire from the negative side of the battery to the frame. Then I ran a wire from the block to the frame. I then started my truck up after checking all the connections. I cranked up the a/c and I was pissed to see my volts drop to the same spot, right at the mark mark between 9 and 14. Did I do something wrong. After reading through this post I saw where the pictures and the discription showed that the block ground and the frame ground need to go t the negative side of the battery. Is that where I messed up? I keep getting a p0300 and was told that a weak charging system could be a cause of this. I need some serious help guys.

[killian96ss]

This is what I have on my Z.

These cables use 1/0 gauge copper cable for the starter cable, and 2 gauge copper cable for the alternator, junction box and jucntion box to fusebox, 1/0 gauge copper cable for the engine ground and 2 gauge for the body and frame grounds.

You have to upgrade all the cables in order for this mod to work, and I have yet to see anybody make a nicer set than Gary @ Innovative Wiring!

Steve

Edited by killian96ss, 20 July 2011 - 07:00 PM.

[6speedblazer]

I just completed my big 3 upgrade today. After my V8 swap and the ford taurus efan install my in-dash voltmeter showed that I was reading at the mark between 9 and 14. This is when i have the a/c on max and with the fan on at a stoplight. I went to advance auto and bought 2 gauge wire and some eyelet connectors for the 2 gauge wire. First off I left all my stock wiring in place. I have an Optima redtop battery so I used the top posts for this install. First I installed one wire from the positive side of the battery to the alternator power on th eback side. Then I ran a wire from the negative side of the battery to the frame. Then I ran a wire from the block to the frame. I then started my truck up after checking all the connections. I cranked up the a/c and I was pissed to see my volts drop to the same spot, right at the mark mark between 9 and 14. Did I do something wrong. After reading through this post I saw where the pictures and the discription showed that the block ground and the frame ground need to go t the negative side of the battery. Is that where I messed up? I keep getting a p0300 and was told that a weak charging system could be a cause of this. I need some serious help guys.

try upgrading the cable from the battery to the fuse center.

[Macs05Z]

I just completed my big 3 upgrade today. After my V8 swap and the ford taurus efan install my in-dash voltmeter showed that I was reading at the mark between 9 and 14. This is when i have the a/c on max and with the fan on at a stoplight. I went to advance auto and bought 2 gauge wire and some eyelet connectors for the 2 gauge wire. First off I left all my stock wiring in place. I have an Optima redtop battery so I used the top posts for this install. First I installed one wire from the positive side of the battery to the alternator power on th eback side. Then I ran a wire from the negative side of the battery to the frame. Then I ran a wire from the block to the frame. I then started my truck up after checking all the connections. I cranked up the a/c and I was pissed to see my volts drop to the same spot, right at the mark mark between 9 and 14. Did I do something wrong. After reading through this post I saw where the pictures and the discription showed that the block ground and the frame ground need to go t the negative side of the battery. Is that where I messed up? I keep getting a p0300 and was told that a weak charging system could be a cause of this. I need some serious help guys.

try upgrading the cable from the battery to the fuse center.

Thanks guys. I will try to add th extra wire to the fuse center under the battery tray. I didnt think of that. I ended up going to advance and picking up an AD224 145AMP alternator and swapped it in in the parking lot. So far it's better. I will test it tomorrow during the afternoon heat, with the A/C on Max and the high fans on. I really hope this is what was causing my constant misfire situation. It seemed to only happen when it got hot and when the a/c was on, so maybe the low voltage was the issue afterall. Thanks again for the input guys.

[Zr2freak316]

im wanting to do this mod has ANYONE had problums with this mod AT ALL

[Keviness®]

The only way you'll have problems is if you mess something up during install.

[Black Angel]

has anyone done this with a dual battery setup? i have the big 3 installed, runs great but wanted to add dual battery with painless performance dual battery control sysem. how difficult would this be since im not using stock cables?

[cknaffle]

has anyone done this with a dual battery setup? i have the big 3 installed, runs great but wanted to add dual battery with painless performance dual battery control sysem. how difficult would this be since im not using stock cables?

Yup. The painless system is a lot of money and complication that is definitely not necessary.

[Black Angel]

has anyone done this with a dual battery setup? i have the big 3 installed, runs great but wanted to add dual battery with painless performance dual battery control sysem. how difficult would this be since im not using stock cables?

Yup. The painless system is a lot of money and complication that is definitely not necessary.

ive had the system sitting around for awhile. im thinking about installing it now, while im adding an amp. but the more i think about it, the more confused i get.