130 replies to this topic

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

I finally got around to doing this to my new Z so I decided to document it for everyone to enjoy. This can be expensive as you want it to be or really cheap, just be careful where you short change yourself. I went all out and used some of the most expensive cable I could get cuz well got it for free. But here is the steps and I recommend this for everybody because if you have a good solid ground everything on your Z will work wonderfully.

This mod is for 98+ models of the Z, may work with earlier years, but some config of the alternator wire may be different.

This mod was also done on a non-body lifted Z, so lengths of cable may differ.

This is known as the BIG 3 Upgrade

1. Alternator wire (positive)
2. Alternator to frame (ground) - Optional, Not Reqired
3. Frame to battery (ground)
4. Block to battery (ground)

Step 1

This mod can be done with a stock battery but I would use a high current one with top mount posts, I selected a Optima Yellow Top. Also decide what kind of cable you would like to use, this mod can be done with smaller then 0 gauge like I used, just depends on what you are running electrically. I selected JL Audio because it is 99.99% copper and true 1/0 AWG.



Step 2
Upgrade the alternator wire first.

This is fairly simple, I only supplied one pic for this one because it is so simple. Remove your battery, then the metal tray that it sits in. Follow the alternator wire down to the junction block and remove with a pair of side cutters. Next remove the nut on the back of the alternator that attaches the cable to the alternator. Replace with a larger better quality cable. Replace battery tray and battery. Then run other end of new alternator cable to battery, top posts are best. Now The only thing on the side posts is the vehicle/computer power cable(red) and starter wire(black). See pic below. I also used crimp style ring terminals on my 0 gauge cable, which I will explain in more detail later.



Step 3
Upgrading the Ground
Block to battery

After Upgrading your alternator wire, the ground is the next step.
First remove the negative cable from the battery and cut the 10 gauge black w/white stripe about 2 inches back for the end of the battery post lug. See pic.
This wire connects to the front of the vehicle and grounds the headlights and lighting assembly. Move this wire out of the way as shown.



Next, remove the 9/16 bolt on the front of the block that connects the 4 gauge wire to the battery. This bolt is behind the lower water pump hose and under the alternator housing. Once removed there will be a large star washer behind the stock cable, save this and the bolt. Next select your desired size of cable and crimp ring terminal to the end of about a 3 ft long piece of your cable. I happen to have a set of professional crimpers so that helps the job. See Pic. Then reinstall your new cable with star washer against the block. See Pic labeled block to battery.




Block to Battery


Run this piece of cable up to the battery and connect to top post along with the black w/white stripe wire you cut earlier. See pic.



Step 4
Frame to Battery (Ground)

Next remove your frame to battery stock ground, this is easily accessed through the passenger fender and is a 10 mm bolt and keep bolt will be reused just like the block bolt. See Pic



Once 10 mm bolt removed, remove total negative harness and keep. I say keep, because if you ever sell the vehicle you can remove your high dollar cable and battery and give the stock back to the next person. See pic



Continue to next post.......

Edited by THEMEMPHISFORCE, 20 June 2008 - 07:33 PM.

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

Now you can clearly see the difference between the stock grounding and aftermarket. WOW



Step 5 -Optional, Not Reqired.
Alternator to Frame (Ground)

We will at this time pause at the battery to frame step and resume within a moment.

The location of grounding the alternator is on the side of the alternator and shown below. It is a 1/2 size bolt which holds a harness bracket. The ring terminal will be sandwiched between the bracket the side of the alternator.



Next on this step is selecting the correct length of cable; don't make this one long because it could come into contact with the belts. This will be grounded on the frame along with the battery to frame cable. You will have to bend the end of the ring terminal on the frame end in order to bolt the cable properly as shown. REMEMBER: The engine torques to the left or down on the passenger side so if the cable is tight once bolted down then it will be lose when the engine torques.



Next remove the 1/2 bolt on the side of the alternator and attach the cable and reinstall bolt but leave lose. See pic



Next attach both cables to the frame, using the saved 10 mm bolt and a washer will be needed in order for the bolt not to slip through the ring terminal if 0 gauge is selected. If 4 gauge is selected no washer is needed. See pic...... Once this 10 mm bolt is tight, you can now tighten the 1/2 bolt on the side of the alternator.



Through the fender view



Next run your now connected frame to battery ground wire to the battery and connect to top post. See pic



Step 6
Clean up

I added a piece of 3/4 inch wire loom to the bottom of the battery to frame ground since it was against the lower water pump hose. Other then that no loom is need on ground wires because they shouldn't get hot. Only loom on the alternator wire. See pic



Lastly here is a pic of the engine torquing and showing the flex in the alternator to frame ground wire. Alot of clearance here.



Now you are done and can enjoy the benefits of having a strong charging system.

-THEMEMPHISFORCE

Edited by THEMEMPHISFORCE, 20 June 2008 - 07:37 PM.

[Keviness®]

Nice write up. Stickied Already!

I'll probablly do this in the spring - Its a good idea I never really thought about it.

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

Thanks... I noticed that it was stickied when I was done with the first page and not even finished explaining. But I noticed that my Z now stays at a constant 14 volts or higher and that is with a stock alternator. When I got done and started the truck up the first time it was 14.6 Volts at the battery with my fluke meter. WOW.

I am happy with that. Truck also runs better too, imagine that.

-THEMEMPHISFORCE

[Canadian Highrider]

great write up!!!

Never thought of grounding the alternator before, I always thought that it was grounded through the block instead.

[Mr. Z™]

[Peco]

VERY NICE WRITE UP. I just put my system in my truck, so the BIG 3 is going to be done next spring. I'm running 0 AWG for my system now I need to match everything else. One other thing how much O wire did you use?

Edited by Peco, 20 October 2007 - 08:14 AM.

[rockininthezr2488]

awesome man.... i got some pretty strong lights on the roll bar, then the quad mod, and will soon have a wattage sucking system again so this will be a HUGE help with those items.

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

[gmtech825]

a friend of mine goes to UTI in mass for school and as a project on they were trying to squeeze as much power out as they could. they upgraded every major ground on the car and saw somewhere around a 12 HP gain at the wheels.

[Gibbles]

If you want good cable cheap, go to a welding shop and get some of the leads, its a nice pure fine strand copper, and its very flexible. Its almost the same thing as the high end car stereo brands, just the shielding is more flexible, I would just add one of those corrugated cable wraps to it.

Edited by Gibbles, 28 October 2007 - 09:42 AM.

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

I have looked into this before, and to me 1 ft of 0 guage was about the same price as car stereo wire. I would just be concerned with the internal resistance of welding wire compared to car stereo wire. But it is a good idea.

-THEMEMPHISFORCE

[02 Wherry]

Great write up I plan on doing this upgrade as well. I allready have the yellow top optimum, how much would you say it cost to do this upgrade w/ the same set up as you did and would a car audio place be the best place to get all these materials?

[cknaffle]

Just a FYI to everybody, you can get welding cable for a lots less money than what the audio companies sell it for. Its equal to if not better quality in most cases.

[HenryJ]

Be careful using welding cable. The insulation, or rubber protective shielding , may not handle the automotive environment very well. While it is very flexible and handles the transfer of power nicely, the outer insulation can degrade and create problems.
This does not happen fast. It takes years sometimes. Some of them do not handle oils very well and swell or fall apart. Others don't like heat and dry or crack.
I thought welding cable would be a good idea when I built my HenryJ, I was wrong and took it all out to be replaced with high quality automotive grade cable after the welding cable shorted out in a really bad place. Thank goodness there was not a fire bigger than it was.

Use quality insulated clamps to route the cable, and just use your best judgment as to the best quality. The most expensive is not always the best deal.

[cknaffle]

Never thought of that. Thanks for the heads up Brule.

[nmband13]

um, added to my list and favorited, running dual efans, and lights, plus taking power from the cig lighter at a stop light my volts drop to about 11 on the guage, would love to upgrade that juice, i'll do this next spring as i dnt run my efans at all(its cold enough out)

definatly an awesome write up

[kaigun3]

where did you get the top post power distribution connectors? I cant find them any where!???

great write up

[THEMEMPHISFORCE]

Any memphis car audio dealer would have them, they are pos and neg and will take 2 pieces of 0 guage. I believe that stinger also makes them, but I am a memphis man.

-THEMEMPHISFORCE