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  1. Today
  2. Axle removal from Bravada

    10-4
  3. The reason we made the extended shaft with two snap rings was after running it without snap rings when we first did the swap we had the shaft pull out of the diff enough to damage the splines and spin. At full droop and full compression the cv shaft is all the way extended and can pull the shaft slightly out of the diff when your suspension cycles fast offroad through whole range of travel. This is more pronounced if you are running different bump stops, shocks or upper control arms. True suspension lift kits also change the geometry and we know can have this happen as well on the BDS lift kit. Some people will be fine but after it happening with our rig offroad we came up with the two snap ring design since we were offroading so much to test products. Once we installed our custom HP dana 30 IFS diff problem solved for good...
  4. Got Led Bar On

    Curious with the trick as well. I read many had made a hole through the firewall for the wiring. I'll be planning this mod as well along with lifting soon on the Chevy S-10 right after we finished installing the backrack headache racks, shocks and new tires on the current truck project.
  5. PA vs Zone

    Sounds a good deal. PA should be a good choice
  6. Yesterday
  7. So many versions

    I should have said "aside from the TT caddy, I wonder what the differences are". It will be interesting to see how much gain could be hand from interchange parts.
  8. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    You should have, cheap performance and between the cam and a tune it really wakes the LS up. Would also be a perfect time to get rid of the NV3500! I need to get my tuning squared away and run my Blazer. I think I should be in the 13s. I'm also scared the aluminum front diff is going to self destruct if I 4wd launch haha
  9. bravada shaft ?s - astro van front axle shaft and tube

    yup, sounds like you figured it out but yes i am running the clip on the outboard side still. only issue it causes is as you already figured out, the shaft comes out with the cv when you pull it. which isnt really a big deal at all.
  10. Flickering Electrical/Bad Alternator?

    "Revving the enging at idle and then letting off the gas causes the RPMs to fall below the normal idle and almost feels like the engine will die and then it catches itself. " Mine has done this for several years. I haven't figured it out myself yet.
  11. PA vs Zone

    Actually bought a new in box PA one two weeks ago off a Facebook page paid $150 shipped so made the choice easy. Won't be able to install it for a while due to only having one vehicle for work right now but will post when I do. Kit looks quality though and im still looking for a gap guard kit. Thinking about buying PA's kit for the 99-06 full size and making it work as the front pieces look very close to the stock ones on the blazer.
  12. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    nah, aside from cleaning it up i didn't touch the motor. no reason to, plus the nv3500 probably wouldn't enjoy it. When I weighed it 9 months ago my truck was already near 4600 lbs. this thing will never be fast... i just want to be able to merge into highway traffic without effort
  13. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    even a stock 5.3L in these trucks is amazing compared to the stock 4.3L with a bolt on and tuned 4.3L my truck went 17.0 in the 1/4 mile stock with tune LM7 it went 15.2 with bad tires and bad driver. it scaled in at 3950lbs
  14. PA vs Zone

    Which one did you end up with?
  15. Last week
  16. Oh and i replaced both seals and both carrier bushings since i ended up dropping the diff anyway. Bearings were in good shape. Hate to put this aluminum case back in but couldnt find and iron case this week.
  17. Thanks zr2dan. After thinking about this for a few minutes i decided to shorten the one piece shaft, and delete the ring inside the differential; there is no reason for it to be there. I will keep the ring for the cv shaft. Looking inside the cv shaft there isnt enough depth to allow the new shaft to slip in further and account for the extra length of the bravada shaft anyhow with the ring removed on that end. I verified this by removing the ring on my stock shaft...i see that the bravada shaft will now come out with my cv joint when i remove it in the future and i will have to separate it outside the vehicle but i dont want to go completely floating so to speak. Thanks everyone.
  18. You leave the ring off the CV side. If you want to use one on the CV side you have to shorten the shaft by cutting it or buy a custom made one. I've been running with one on the CV side only for years with no issue. Make sure to replace the seal on the end of the tube so you don't have to tear it all back apart if it leaks.
  19. So ive got my stock shaft and tube pulled. I have my astro/bravada shaft and tube here also. I see why you cut a bit off an end greencatus; the one piece shaft is a few mm longer. Will this affect anything? I thought you could just swap it out... also a bit confused on whether to leave the rings or not. Babydeuce you say to leave the one on the differential side and remove the one for the cv. Greencactus you say youre running no ring on the differential side do you have one on the cv side? I see the stock shaft only has a ring on the cv side. Hmm. Trying to figure out what route to take here.
  20. Aluminium Radiator

    I decided to go back to a regular clutch fan. In hindsight this aluminum radiator has been more of a pain in the ass than it was worth. The core is so much wider that I can't properly place the tabs on the lower shroud into the slots. That's why the previous one went into the fan. It also has a lousy trans cooler so I had to install an auxiliary cooler. I put in one with an electric fans mounted to it so it can also act to cool the condenser when sitting in traffic. I also tried upgrading to the AD244 alternator but they sent me the wrong one.
  21. Aluminium Radiator

    By cutting off the ends of stock fittings it fit and there are no leaks so far.
  22. sourcing a steering knuckle

    Damn babydeuce you're the man! Thanks again
  23. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    Nice work! Did you touch the motor at all before you dropped it in? Would have been the perfect time for a cam!
  24. Flickering Electrical/Bad Alternator?

    sounds like you did not have the alt connector seated properly...I had zero issues when I did mine.
  25. sourcing a steering knuckle

    All the 4wd's that you listed will work. They are all the same as long as they are 4wd.
  26. Does anyone know of any other gms that utilize the same steering knuckle as a 2000 zr2 blazer? Im assuming any 4x4 blazer. What about bravada, sonoma, s10 pickup, jimmy, envoy or hombre? Wanted to pull one at the junkyard today but the blazer with 4x4 was impacted on that side bad. My stock knuckle is gouged out on the upper surface for the LCA ball joint. If i cant find a better one i plan to tig weld and grind to a smooth surface.
  27. 03 ZR2 OVERHEATING WITH EFAN AND A/C

    First, let me address the engine coolant temperature issue.... If the cooling system is in good condition and the engine is running properly, the stock radiator and clutch fan are more than adequate to cool your 4.3. There is no need to add dual electric fans to keep the ECT in the proper range. Things to check... Faulty fan clutch. Debris on the outside of the HVAC condenser and/or the radiator. You may need to pull the radiator to determine if there is a problem or not. Restricted cooling system, either in the engine itself or in the radiator. Rotted sponge seals between the condenser and the core support allowing cooling air flow to bypass the cooling stack. Excessive use of any "stop leak" products. Collapsing coolant hoses. Improper installation, faulty operation or incompatibility of the non-OE electric fan system. If you need a radiator, Spectra Premium has a very affordable HD radiator for T-trucks and -utilities. It's got a one-inch core rather than the OE 7/8ths core. As for the HVAC not working. ... You were told the compressor is on its last leg, know that the stock compressor, the Harrison H6/HT6, is a POS. Lots of failures with those bastards in S/T, GMT400 and 800 trucks with V6es and V8s. If you're going to replace it, Four Seasons has a upgraded compressor which uses a Nippondenso core which is much better. The denso compressor is used on Corvettes and other cool cars. You can get the Four Seasons compressor from Rockauto.com. When you replace the compressor, change the orfice valve, the hoses and the condenser because if the compressor is failing, there's likely metal chips in those parts. The only part you can sucessfully flush is the evaporator core. If you just replace the compressor and not do all those other things, you may have more problems in short order because of metal in the system. Rockauto has all those pieces. I just had to replace all that on my '99 because the compressor failed and dumped metal grit throughout the system. Also, a couple years ago I had to replace the radiator because of a leaking core. I installed the Spectra Premium. With that radiator, new hoses, a good clutch fan and a 180 thermostat, my cooling system works quite well. I hardly ever get over 210 and the only time it gets up there is in traffic on hot days with the HVAC on.
  28. 5" trailmaster lift pitman arm clearance

    Thank you usagoal for going out of your way to help me out! Diff was dropped last weekend, got my new carrier bushings and installed the upper no problem with a ball joint press. Having to macgyver something to press the new lower one in. Anyway gonna install a new solid shaft and tube i pulled out of an astro today same as the bravada shaft. I will update when i figure this mess out. Thank you for the pic of that mount!
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