yes they will, one thing you will have to mention is if they are for the pre-97 or post-97. other then that they are exactaly the same for the Z and non-Z

i just started a new job with hella good pay for these times. Let me see what i could do after a paycheck. But i have to catch up on a few bills, I still have alot to fix on my truck, but these are on the list of things to do. Its a shame that you didn't have them for sale last year when i was in seattle, i would've taken them from you on the spot.

you have a pm btw

your talking about the adapter that the oil lines go into on the block, correct? I just pulled all of the oil lines off of my truck along with the adapter. The gasket was orange, and was the same size and everything as the gasket on a oil filter

it'll work, but you'll have to prettly much bring all of the electronics from the Z into the old blazer. you'd have to bring the tranny over as well so it'll shift correctly. You'll be able to keep the 4wd since the transfer case will bolt up to the tranny(i think, i don't know of the spline count is different. if it is, then just put in a 231, since its better then the 207 you have) Its a long drawn out process that will cost a pretty penny. probably just be better off slapping in a carbed 350 instead, would be cheaper and have more power then the 4.3.

If you have the auto in the other blazer, then it will bolt right up the the 350, and everything else will stay in the same place, you will be able keep the 4wd in either of the swaps, just depends on how much money you want to put into it

i just pulled all of that stuff off of my truck. Honestly the gasket looked just like a gasket off of a oil filter, and it was the same size as the wix gasket that was on the filter. 2 #13 bolts and a srew driver to pry it off and your good to go though.

man, 33s really give you that bad of mileage. I'm on a skinny set of 32" KMs on 17s, and can pull 18 highway/15 city no problem if i keep my foot out of it. Only thing i have done to the engine is a half ass CAI with a AEM filter, ACDelco plugs, Taylor Spiro Pro 8mm wires, and the cap and rotor set from O'reilly's.

Truck's coming along great though, was just checking your thread on TXZR2, its lookin real good now

thats the issue with the exhaust, it doesn't involve anything like the cat or the muffler, its the y-pipe that needs to be modified. Mine was ran under the drive shaft, but it looks like crap. so when i get the money, i'm going to have it redone over the driveshaft

wouldn't recomend it, 1in spacers don't cover up your studs enough

he's right for the TM and early BDS kits being the same. IIRC the guys who designed the TM kit left TM and went and sold it at BDS. You might have the older version of the BDS because as far as i know of, there weren't awhole lot of the TM kits made. But either way the SL arms you posted about should work, I've spoken with a BDS rep and he said that any of the replacement arms will work, but then i've heard that the SL arms don't work with the BDS kit, so I guess its all in taste for that goes.

IMO the BDS UCAs look stronger then the SL arms though

walmart sells Hella's for like $60 a pair

Taking my oil lines off for good tomorrow for the relocation, so I'm selling my slightly used lines. They were installed last october before i drove back down from seattle. They only have about 10k on them, and are still in great condition. Don't know if it makes a difference, but they have had synthetic running through them i put them on. They are the updated ones also.

Asking $35 plus shipping for both.(obo)

(yes they will have the clips)

Also have the remote mount with the fitting on it and the mounting brackets. Open to any price on those.

so the factory fittings will not directly screw into this radiator? Reason why my asking is because i too will be using this radiator to replace my leaking factory one. Also will i have to cut my support like you did, or will it fit just like factory?

BDS offers a re-branded bilstien 5100, or theres the bilstien kit thats on synergy

hate to say it, but the painless one is adjustable as well. The be-cool one isn't, but it only works with their fans, not factory fans such as the taurus one

Haven't had a chance to do any measuring yet, but what would the likelyhood of using the e-fans work? I'm not going to be using the factory radiator when i do an e-fan swap, so making it mount won't be too hard of an issue since the radiator i'm getting has mounting points for e-fans. Just wanted to know if the silverado fans would work good or not.

front or back? back ones you should be able to get a back one at a parts store. front one will most possibly be at a parts place too, but most likely will have to be a dealership part, or salvage yard.

what he's talking about is what i have going on with mine as well. Basically i have a full wipe up until its straight up, then it skips the middle, and fixes itself when it goes back down. All on the driver side also. I just put a brand new pair of the rain-x latitudes on, and my last set did this as well. Never had this issue with the old framed rain-x's, but its not really a problem or issue to me, just an annoyance. I just thought it was because of the curvature of the windshield at that part, kinda like why the end of the passenger side wiper doesn't touch the windshield until a certain point. But i never really thought much about it until its pouring down and the wipers are going full speed, gonna have to try the bending to see if it helps any

from what i've heard from a few of the ppl who have done it, it only corrects a issue with our trouble prone poppet injectors. No hp or mpg gains.

X2 on the 236, the only reason why i had to change out the 1st one was because of my front drive shaft. I had an aftermarket one with a bad flange that had a real bad vibration, that ended up putting a crack in the front half of the case. got it swapped out and put a stock front driveshaft, and made the drive back, and still no leaks. the one thing i'm not sure if it works, or even how it works, is the auto feature, but it only gets used in really bad weather

IIRC theres a place on ebay that will flash a gauge cluster so it'll show the mileage of your truck and can update everything so it'll carry over

let me see on how this payday's(the 19th) gonna treat me, and i might get after ya on this

its your heater core. Mine when out on me at the begining of last december and did the exact same thing as you mentioned, film on the windshield and all. The parts about $50, and the replacement, while its seems somewhat scary, is actually real easy if you take your time and read up on it. When i did mine, i used both of the write-ups that are on here, took me roughly 3 days to do it, but thats because i could only work on it for a few hours a day because it was only me doing it, the lack of light, and it was just plain cold. But since its still summer, just grab ya a friend and you should be able to knock it out in a day. just take your time on it is all i can say

if its 4wd, then everythings the same, both Z and non-Z. If you don't want to run spacers on the non-Z, then just find a Z rear axle to swap out, and it'll be straight with the front.

one thing thats greatly helped my highway mileage IMO has been that diffuser mod along with my CAI. Its not that i'm getting better mileage from it, its just that the truck doesn't have to try as hard to get the air in it. My gf lives 20miles away from me, and before my radiator took a crap on me, i could set the cruise at 65(all city, so the speed limit is either 60 or 65 here) and not pull out of OD once going there or back over all the hills and overpasses that are along the way. Now I do have a lift, 32s on 17sc, a brush guard, and this is all on the heavy blazer, not a S10, so i'm nowhere near as light as some of you other guys, but on a good tank with non E10 gas, i can get about damn near close to 300miles per tank, but i have yet to find a non E10 station here in Beaumont, so i'm just running the 87octane(minimum here in TX) so i can get about 250 to a tank around town. Best i've gotten in this thing was 19.3mpg on my way up to seattle last year and that was also when i had the body lift and 15in streetlocks on. But here lately since i got a hub thats shot and my radiator leaking antifreeze, my mileage is about 14-16 highway and straight 14 in the city

^^^ would invest in a bike, or just walk to work if that was the case.

i'm sittin at about 150k and thats all abusive miles that have all finally come back on to me. I bought it with 104k on it the fall of '08 and since then i have taken it all over. It has been through so much between the last owner and i, and has never let me down when i actually needed it. All i have to do to her now is rebuild the front end all the way now, and freshen up the cooling system one more time with a new radiator, hoses and water pump, and it'll be good to go