you should be able to get to them from the top with a wrench

Just go in through the wheel well. Easy as pie.

I've got this too. I have changed the cam position sensor and the distributor drive gear. It still has not went away. I have to check out the timing chain for stretch. I really dont want to have to change the timing chain.

I might be interested. How much are we talking?

I ended up getting one from Rock Auto. SPECTRA brand. for $197. The AC delco one was $350. That was just outta my price range.

looks good! I wish the rust would stay away here in Michigan like OK.

they changed starter models? rock auto has the same part numbers for both the 99 and the 02. I think they are the same.

sounds ignition related. You said you had fuel but how much pressure?

thanks ironlemon

any tricks to getting that O ring in and the snap ring? I think I am gunna go with a compleate unit. There has to be a reason why hardly anyone sells just the pump.

$280 for a compleate unit sounds about right. When I called the dealer they quoted me $678 for the unit. I can get one way cheaper than that from Rock Auto.

$100 for labor sounds way too cheap. I wouldnt do it for $100.

is there a reason there is very few pumps sold on ebay and everywhere I check wants to sell the entire sending unit? How hard is it to just replace the pump?

how hard is it to get the sending unit out of the tank once I remove the bed?

I have done many intank pumps/sending units on older GM products but this is my first time dealing with one like this.

I just checked it out. The sending unit is plasic. So... no rust. I think I will be able to get by with just a pump.

how about this one? ebay pump

My fuel pump is failing! last night it would not work. Hit the tank with a hammer and it began to work. It got me home but I know it wont be long before it fails all together. I see on ebay the fuel pumps are much cheaper than I can get anywhere else but how reliable are they? Should I get the whole thing including the sending unit? On older GM's that I have changed the fuel pump on in the past the sending unit pipes were so rusty they crumbled when I tried to take it apart. Is this the same issue I am gunna run into on this truck?

I'm getting 16.7 currently

you dont need to take the dash off to get it out. It just pops out of the dash.

I am told they are originally back lit. I replaced mine with one off ebay and that one is not.

no, but I could. Could you describe how to do that.

nope, I havnt yet but I will be checking that next.

however, after changing the worn distributor drive gear the code remains!! I had Auto Zone clear the code and it was gone, on my way to work. Then it came back on, on my way home. Tonight it was off when I first started the truck, but then it came back on. I have changed the cam position sensor and the distributor drive gear. I am wondering if my timing chain is not worn. This is getting frustrating. The truck starts and runs great.

I pulled the distributor and changed the drive gear. Wow! was that thing worn.

mine is making some kind of noise too. Kind of like a whirr. I think that the gear is bad because I have the check engine code (forget the number) - cam shaft sensor is out of time with the crankshaft sensor. I have a OEM gear on order from Rock Auto. I hope this takes care of the problem. Truck seems to run good though. But my gas mileage is down about 2 mpg.

might be the dash switch. Mine acted that way. would go in 4 low but not 4 high.

pop 2 nuts loose? Dont you have to pound the freeze plug out? what 2 nuts are you talking about?

I would love to have one. What freeze plug and how hard are they to install?