Hi Guys, I need a little help -My truck is a stock 2000 ZR2 pickup with a 1949 Chevy pickup body. I'm trying to find the best stock steel wheel (15x7 - 6" backspace) for my project. I'd like the wheel to be as close looking to stock 49' as possible. I've looked at the spare tire steel rims and don't really care for the cutouts. I have also noticed that some of the 2 wheel drive spare tires came with a more desirable looking wheel but the backspacing is wrong for me. Any ideas? If I have to use the stock steel wheels are there any center caps available that would help make the wheel look more vintage?

hey jigg...did you ever get those pics of your floor shift install? I'm gettin ready to install mine hopefully next friday. Just looking for pics to help me with mine. Mostly the shift cable install

im sure a lot of us have worn out interior by now and it would be great for us to have some pictures of our set up! maybe some 2003-2005 seats, seats from a single cab!, 60/40s in our ext cabs? I guess we will find out!

I'll try to put the pictures up today. I had the majority of the mounts already on the floor for the floor shift console, which was nice. Basically, here's what i did:

-Remove old console
-Using two existing studs on floor, bolt in floor shifter
-Self-tapping screws secured the rear of the floor shifter
-Zip tie brake over-ride lock so that i didn't have to wire it to the brake lights (this is to make sure you have your foot on the brake to shift out of park)
-Wire accessory power to lights on shifter.
-Remove old shifter cable (to be completely honest, i cut the old cable under the dash, and only removed from that point to the trans)
-Run new shifter cable
-Bolt up new console (mounts were all there)
-Remove torx screw in old shifter to pull handle out (its behind the boot)

That's it. Didn't have to adjust anything, once the new shifter was in, the trans went into gear as it should.

There's a great writeup on the process here:

http://www.pghconsulting.net/howto

I obviously didn't follow it 100%, but it shows every single step you might want to take.

ive had my service engine light on for evap system senor. i tried putting a new gas cap on today, but i still seem to have pressure. when i open the gas cap after its been running for a while, or even a while after it was running, it blows out a lot of vapor, like a gas can that was left in the sun. any idea what is causing this pressure in the tank or how to fix it, or even where to start after a new gas cap was already tried? any ideas please let me know. thanks!

tyler

Ok, I really haven't posted in the v-8 area in a while but I'm back and back w/ an ongoing issue. Since my swap I have always had a cooling issues. My cooling system consists of a corvette radiator, stock v-6 water pump, 2 puller e fans, v-8 thermastat housing, 180 degree ballanced t-stat, 18 psi rad cap. The radiator has been put in the foward position and I still have the air conditioning place. The issue seems to be my system is always pushing rad fluid into the coolant overflow creating too much air in the system. I have tried different psi rad caps up to 18 psi and I still having this problem. Any sugestions where to go W/ this?

My RR caliper siezed up, it grabs but won't release, gotta release it with a C clamp.

Got new cailpers & pads for both sides, also replacing the dust shields that rotted away.

Got the brakes all appart, diff open, axel shafts out, axel backing plate/flange bolts soaking in PB blaster.

When time comes to close things up, whats the best thing to do with all the black film that seems to be all over the diff gears & stuff? It's pretty easy to wipe the film of funk off, so just flush it out with brake cleaner, let it evaporate & dry good, then button up & refill right?

Any other things to do while I'm in there? The axel seals look good & were not leaking (have new ones on hand). The outer bearings look good as well as the bearing surface of the shafts.

'01 Z with 82 K, diff fluid was changed at 5 K & 50 K.

Hello everyone,
ok so I have officially had both of my seat handles bust off and it is time to go with a replacement. It has been quite a while back but I remember seeing someone say that someone sells a replacement handle, on ebay i believe, that mod.'s up the aluminum BS that is currently on the seat. It puts a post extension on that aluminum crap and puts another pin through that.

As the title says... can you help me and provide me with TEH WEBSITE?

Thanks guys.

Ahah so I shot a rod in my 4.3 got another motor and decided I wanted to do it decent Im going to go with JBA headers and 3 inch back. It just so happened my boss put a banks on his cummins so I decided I would take his old exhaust hah I got it mocked up and it looks dirty with a 4 inch tip any one do this before?

Maybe, I don't know. Snake oil I say.

Pour a little ATF down your intake and you will get the same smoke, or any oil for that matter. I used to do that for lulz from the window washer pump driving down the street when I was a kid, my gawd the look on people's faces.

Seafoam is a good cleaning solvent for sure, but I don't want to put all that shit into my already anemic (stock Chevrolet) oil pump. Nor do I want loose sludge clogging my injectors, they work fine right now.

I do not think that mechanic in a can is a viable alternative to proper service. Period.

Today I decided To detail everything under the hood of my BlaZeR2. In the process of wiping down all the mud and grease from a vaccum line it came unplugged (I believe???) from somewhere behind the ABS unit. It goes to a tee by the brake booster, one piece goes over toward the distributer, the other goes into a wiring harness. No camera with me to get a picture right now. Could anyone be so kind to look and let me know where the other side goes (somewhere by the fender & ABS unit). I cant seem to find anything it would go into. Thanks in advance.

~ Jake

Pa inspections require the check of ALL emissions related items. If you don't have one it will fail. They don't check codes around here so that wouldn't be an issue. You could buy a cheap code reader that will erase the light if it's on when you get to the State station.

Blah Blah blah.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/deadhorse.gif)

is what bad? I thought it depends on where you live in order to take your pre cat off.

Is there anybody on here who lives in Washington State, maybe in the Vancouver area who has taken their pre cat off and passed emissions? Thanks.

The part might be lifetime, but the labor, I dont think so.

I had my Intake gasket replaced under warranty on 2//14/07 at the local dealership. Well, It's leaking again.

I have they orginal service invoice, and the asterisk next to the service/repair description has a footnote that states: "Parts designated with an (*) indicate a limited lifetime service guarantee." It goes on to say that it applies only to original purchaser (me).

Should i expect them tofdix this--or hassle me? Where can I find some additional supportive info on this?

And yes the "LS" bumper has the impact strip holding the vallance on, it will have holes all accross the face of the bumper.

Anyone have any tips for getting the lines out once the clips are off? It's like they are seized in there and I'm afraid to pry on them too much because I'm sure those lines will break/bend easily :/

Thanks for the advice guys. Ive had to remove that fan before on my truck. I learned to use an air hammer to crack the nut. Takes just a few seconds. Im not in much of a hurry to do this anyway cause its not my truck haha. Im busy enough replacing my clutch at school.

Hi, I just bought a 2002 ZR2 and I'm already finding this forum to be a lot of help.

I do most of my own wrenching, (understatement) but having this type of resourse is invaluable.

Thanks

Doug J - Last C5

heres the new link. http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/pts/1579359331.html
what did everybody else pay for there ZR5 rims. Does $500 seem reasonable. Seems a little high to me