I have the same problem now, did you ever get a fix?

ok, today i had the selector or defrost going to work and it worked fine, but on the way home i was getting hot so i turn the selector to floor and it started blowing cold air....

Anyone ever figured out what causes heat/ac to blow out the dash vents at all times??

I can get hot or cold air to come out, it just comes out the dang dash vents.

Even blows out when i got everything turned off. .

I have to drive it with all the dash vents turned off lol. .

Any help would be very appreciated! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

IMO 2.5 inch diameter piping is plently good for a stock v6 unless its heavily built internal then it depends

I don't think so, cuz you have a loss in torque with bigger pipe and headers. SO more HP but less torque, no blowing tires off of anything......

Is anyone here running headers with this y-pipe? I've already got headers on mine and ordered the new y-pipe yesterday. Just curious to know what you guys running headers think? - Can't wait now!

The real thing that improves performance is that the CRMB pipe is 2.25in to 2.5in instead of the factory 1.75in to 2.5in. The factory pipe even reduces down to almost an inch in one or two places. The interestion in the new pipe is alot smoother and yes the precat is deleted. The DIY method is to remove the precat and port the stock y intersection.

Flange bolts are not larger...im having to drill them out as we speak, its a bitch.

Got mine in today...should be goin on in a few days.

The pipe needs to be put onto the flange at the perfect angle. If you compare the new pipe to the old one, the flange is a little smaller due to the larger diameter of the new pipe.
We took extra time to ensure that the flange was positioned onto the manifold before final tightening of the flange bolts. After everything was positioned the 2 connections were then welded. You may want to check the condition of all of the exhaust hangers on your system to ensure that the weight of the exhaust system is properly suspended.

Hope this helps.

Quick question Since you orignaly moded a 2wd pipe? If I am getting a suspension lift If I ordered the 2wd pipe would it work without needing any mods?

I'm axious to see what gains this pipe produces. Mine will go on saturday morning. Walkman, do you know if CRMB could make this 4x4 pipe for a 95 and older 4.3? A friend of mine wants a pipe for his 95 Jimmy with the 4.3 CPI. If not, he might just modify a 96+ pipe.

I'm axious to see what gains this pipe produces. Mine will go on saturday morning. Walkman, do you know if CRMB could make this 4x4 pipe for a 95 and older 4.3? A friend of mine wants a pipe for his 95 Jimmy with the 4.3 CPI. If not, he might just modify a 96+ pipe.

DHL

My Y pipe is on, it works well. Some mid range power can be felt while passing. The truck runs smoother as well.

The flange rings needed some enlarging of the holes to allow them to fit onto the manifolds. (the holes on the y pipe flanges were slightly too-close together) Other than that, installation was straight forward. Both connections were welded together to ensure an airtight connection.

Just bought me a new "y" pipe, he said that they will ship on tuesday 8-5-08, they were antisipating 80 people to buy them! also he said that they were tweaked just alittle bit now they wont leak. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/drinkbuds.gif)

http://store.racing-solutions.org/s10blazer.html
What is their phone # for ordering the pipe?

That is correct.

There should be only one yellow wire from the OHC.

The yellow wire should go to your OBDII port purple wire... Pin #2.
Grey goes to the instrument cluster fused power

I'm getting ready to do the same after vacation. What price did he quote you, and do you know if the Blazer and S-10 pipes are a different price?

Our emission laws in Ontario (province of Canada) specify that your vehicle pass an e-test every 2nd year on your birthday, if you don't take the test they won't renew your drivers license - no negotiating! When I had it done a year ago there was no visual inspection underneath the truck, I guess because it looked fairly new. They just drove it onto the dyno and hooked a probe into the tailpipe, ran it up for a bit and that was it - passed with flying colors. Will be interesting to see how it does next year, hopefully with new y-pipe and no precat. If it fails I figure I can always put on the original and see if that gets me through then change back for 2 years till next test (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Okay, here is the info I used from the thread on s10crewcab.com:

I recently installed an overhead console to my 02 Blazer-X with the Temp/Compass computer and wondered if it was possible to upgrade to the full trip computer. I had one of these computers in my 2000 Astrovan and missed it when I went to the Blazer. As luck would have it, I found the full trip computer module (a >$350 dealer special order) on ebay and won it with a $15+ship bid!!! For this price I took a chance I'd be out of luck, so off I went to research.

I was unable to find any wiring info on the trip computer in my Chilton's manual, so I signed-up with Alldata ($25) and started checking wiring and connector diagrams. It turns out doing the trip computer is a piece of cake! it only takes two more wires with only one needed to be fished to the dashboard. The second taps into the constantly hot wire of the console - the orange one(s).

The key, on this year anyway, is the computer gets its data from the serial data bus which connects various components to the main computer. The most convienent access to this system is at the Data Link Connector under the driver's side of the dash. This is the plug a tech would attach his code reader to. On my truck's connector, starting on the top left counting accross to the right, it is pin number 2 - with a purple wire going to it. I just unscrewed the connector and spliced in the purple wire.

The other key is the connectors that plug into the console computer. On the temp/compass its a 6 pin connector and the trip has a 9 pin connector. The great thing is the pinout is the same for the first 6 pins! Because I couldn't get the 9 pin connector - dealer wants $66 for a connector pigtail!!!! I just used the 6 pin after shaving off the one "ear" that would prevent it from plugging into the 9 pin socket. Pin 7 on the computer isn't used. Pin 8 taps the orange hot wire in the console and pin 9 is a new wire to the Data Link connector under the dash. For about an hour's extra work I have Average fuel economy, instant fuel economy, range and average speed along with temp and compass VERY COOL!!! I backed out of the driveway as a test, then back in... hummm 2MPGs. I then jumped out danced a jig and highfived the air ( I was alone ok?) I was so happy with the results.

My console is out of a '99 and I have NO idea what year the computer is out of so I suspect this is do-able for just about any late model vehicle that had this computer as an option. The old computer slides right out after removing the lens/button face and the trip computer slides right in. The only "nit" I have to yet pick is the buttons are the wrong ones now. Instead of US/MET and ON/OFF, the buttons should be US/MET and MODE, but this is a $35 dealer order. unless I can find one in a junkyard this may stay a while.

Hope this helps others considering this mod.

And here is a link where I uploaded the overhead trip computer plug.: http://thomas.j.masterson.home.att.net/Travel/dicWtrip.gif

Here's the trip/compass computer plug just for reference: http://thomas.j.masterson.home.att.net/Travel/comptemp.gif

NOTE! On the plug pinout for the trip computer pin #15 Trip computer class 2 serial data wire color is listed as YELLOW. This is the color on the FACTORY wiring harness that plugs into the overhead unit. For those of us who are making our own wiring this is the wire that goes to the PURPLE wire on DATA LINK CONNECTOR shown here: http://thomas.j.masterson.home.att.net/Tra...nkconnector.gif

IMPORTANT NOTE!!!! This is information that I used to wire my 2002, I can't guarantee it works with other years. My experience is these things don't change much, if any, between similar model years. My computer is out of an unkown year and works fine in my '02



Here is the link to the thread where I got this post from. The above information is all I needed to get it to work. I didn't have to buy a new wire harness. I spent $5 at Radioshack for some pins for the connectors and some wire.

I just spoke with George at CRMB, and put myself on the list. Get off your butts guys, they are ready to product them.

Can't wait... Way to go, I know you won't be disapointed with the performance, sound, gas mileage.

Hmmm... I guess everything is on hold till we hear back on how this all worked out.

Any word on Vince's exhaust leak?