ZR2tooo

LS build.

24 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

I need some pics of how others have done there fuel filter install. Also, how many AN fittings does it take. By my count, I would need 4 3/8 push locks. Filter(3) and rail(1) and 2 5/16 for return. 

 I also found a place called ICT Billet that has mounts for alternator and power steering pump. It puts the Alt on the pass side and a high mount steering pump using the truck balancer. Can use either LS1 water pump or truck style dependent on what intake you run. http://www.ictbillet.com/ls/brackets/truck-or-ls3-camaro-crank-pulley-3-part-s/alternator-and-or-power-steering-brackets/water-pump-truck.html

 

 

Edited by ZR2tooo
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I used the AN adapters, but would have to check how many. I ran a return-less fuel rail though, and had recently replaced all my factory fuel lines. 

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In regards to accessory brackets, I used Holley brackets, just need to pick a spacer it depending on what water pump you decide to run. 

 

I don't see how your intake choice would impact water pump. 

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Can't use a truck water pump with a car intake, because the outlet hose interferes with the snout for the intake.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks Kev.... If you run an LS1/LS6 intake the water neck from the truck pump hits the throttle body. Using an LS1 WP moves the neck to a straight out position.  If you use the truck balancer, then you have to get the spacers for it.

I'm using a LS6 intake with a 98-02 Camaro water pump and power steering pump/reservoir. Alt on the passenger side and a high mount PS pump.

 

Edited by ZR2tooo

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I would go with Holley, but the location of the Alt and price changed my mind.... This kit is 199.00.

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Not running AC?

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46 minutes ago, Keviness® said:

Not running AC?

No, maybe later down the road. I never used it that much anyway.

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i had 4 fittings. 2 adapter fittings at the stock fuel lines and then two push lock fittings at the fuel rail.

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Got the brackets from ICT Billet today.. They look awesome. Shipping was 3 days.. Packaged well and each pack has a set of instructions. I chose the Turbo kit. They said that it brings the Alt and PS pump in closer for more room for turbo headers. I won't be putting a turbo on, and even if I did, it would be inline with the exhaust around the muffler area anyway. I'll get pics of it installed once I get the water pump and power steering pump in. Probably tomorrow.

 Just need headers and fuel fittings. Waiting on CPW for the harness and mounts. Hopefully they've fixed the issues. If not, I'll give ICT a try, I think they have mounts also.

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Slick!

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Posted (edited)

OK, of course I couldn't wait. I did get my pump in today.. So I had to put it together to see how fit and finish is.. It is the easiest install I did it in about 15 minutes.  Alternator isn't in all the way since I believe the lower bolts go through the water pump tensioner holes. It came with a new tensioner pulley. Not sure if I like it. It's a smooth one.

 I got a cam from Brian Tooley Racing. It's a 212/218 .553/.553 113+2. It came as a kit with your choice of GM LS6 springs, or Tooley LS6 equivalent springs. I opted for his springs. $449.00. It's suppose to be safe with stock springs and pushrods. Intake is a LS6.

Waiting on cam and a cover gasket, then I can button it all up and ready for install. I also had the stock 862 heads milled down about .0025 so compression should be in the 10:2 range.

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Edited by ZR2tooo

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That is a nice looking setup. :popcorn:

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Water pump, cam, and springs came in today, along with the PS pump pulley, Degree wheel tomorrow...Boy, I'm gonna be busy tomorrow.

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Posted (edited)

What timing sets are ppl using for the 5.3L other than factory? My engine (LM4), has no timing belt tensioner....

Edited by ZR2tooo

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Posted (edited)

Cam is in, new springs and seals...

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Edited by ZR2tooo

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Ok, weird problem. I tried to install the H3 oil pan, and noticed there was no provision for the dipstick. A search revealed that the LS1 blocks have it, but it is plugged. My block has no provision for that. So my choices now are machining the block to make one. Since the TB pan is a front sump, It might clear the cross member, it will be a pain to change the oil filter, but I think it might just be doable. If anyone knows if it can be done, chime in. or an alternative.

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just drill it out in the block.

super easy. i just used a hand drill and slowly stepped up the hole size until it was snug on the oring

 

 

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I don't think I trust myself doing that. The block is aluminum so things could go wrong quickly. I talked to my machinist today, he said he could do it. That will be the last resort prior to a new block.

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One thing to keep in mind about aluminum is that if you do make a mistake it's pretty easy to fix with a welder.

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I don't know how to weld.. I can get it done though... I just don't want to make that mistake. Just being cautious..

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Final assembly... I drilled the dipstick tube...I upgraded to the GM HD timing chain (#GM 12646386) and a dog bone style dampener (# GM 12588670)...

Just need headers and fuel lines and filter. Waiting on mounts and wiring. I'm going with a 2 row aluminum radiator and fans/shround from a guy on ebay.. it has the filler tube just like CPW , at a savings of over half.. A condenser like CPW is only 100 or so...

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Nice!

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