Keviness®

Kevin's LSJUAN Swap Thread

461 posts in this topic

Damnit I'm pissed. I had this all typed out and then lost power on my computer :pissed:

 

I figured it was time to start this thread. Thanks to John I have a complete LS1 sitting in my garage. It will be making its way into my Blazer in the next few months. My goal is to have it 100% done for Dunes 2016, hopefully sooner than that.

 

My current plans are as follows:

 

Motor -

Ported factory 806 heads

I'm trading one of Johns buddies my LS1 intake for a 5.3L truck intake

Cam of some sort. Waiting to hear back from Comp and TSP for their recommendations.

Headers of some kind. TBD. Recommendations???

N20 at some point. Lower on the priority list.

 

Trans -

Local guy will be building my 4L60. I've though about doing a manual valvebody, but I think that would really suck with the column shift. I can't swap to a floor shift due to the 231.

 

Wiring -

I have the complete LS1 harness and factory computer. A guy at work in the prototype/R&D swapped an LQ9 into a 4 Door Blazer, he likes that kind of stuff. Offered to do my harness pretty cheap. I started looking at some links that JW sent me, it kind of made my head hurt :lol: So I'll probably just pay that guy to mod mine.

I'll run the LS1 computer, and probably have my friend tune it. He does tuning for a local shop, but doesn't have a dyno. Not sure yet if I'd rather take it somewhere and have it dyno tuned. Its probably not necessary since its a really basic build.

 

Misc. -

Going to run the CPW motor mounts. I know Mark had to mod them a bunch, but I'd rather mod them then start from scratch. Plus they may have gotten better by now

Really tempted to buy the CPW radiator. Its designed so you don't have to notch your core support, it fits right in. Only thing I'm not liking is the price. Its $520 for the radiator w/trans cooler. If I want the AC condenser also I have to get it with E-Fans and their shroud, which jumps up to $1K. FAWK that! I may call and see if they could get me one with the AC condenser but no E-fan stuff.

 

I think that covers most of the major stuff.

 

I'd love to do a Detroit out back, and order a set of paddles, but those will both have to be taken care of as money allows. Still have a wedding to pay for and some boat mods! :lol:

 

Pics:

 

IMG_20150829_164058696.jpg

 

Current state:

IMG_20150919_102329374.jpg

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One thing I still need to figure out is AC. I can't do a low mount due to the 1 Ton Idler Arm. Not willing to give that up. From everything I have read I can't do a top mount without a body lift, and I'm not going to BL this truck.

 

It will be interesting to see if Mark finds that the corvette AC works with a low mount.

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My goal is to have it 100% done for Dunes 2016, hopefully sooner than that.

 

:lol:

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My goal is to have it 100% done for Dunes 2016, hopefully sooner than that.

 

:lol:
:flipoff:

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what year blazer? why change your rad?

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what year blazer? why change your rad?

Maybe I'm confusing things in my head, but I thought the factory radiator in the factory location and e-fans didn't work with an LS?

 

I've read so much over the past few months I can't keep it straight :lol: I'll end up re-reading it all I'm sure.

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You can run a floor shift with the 231 just have to do something custom like I'm doing or get an aftermarket shifter and mount that in there. And sounds like you have most of it lined out and the ls would take a radiator that has inlet and outlet on the same side basically a double pass unless you want to go through heck trying to make hoses work idk how it would fit with the fans though

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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what year blazer? why change your rad?

Maybe I'm confusing things in my head, but I thought the factory radiator in the factory location and e-fans didn't work with an LS?

 

I've read so much over the past few months I can't keep it straight :lol: I'll end up re-reading it all I'm sure.

 

 

i have a factory 4.3L HD radiator in the stock location with intrpid e-fans. check my thread i have clearance pictures.

 

it cooled decently well. never over heated at idle but got a little warmer than i liked under load (towing a boat or trailer) on the highway with high ambient temps.

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20150404_184827_zpskjnwvv8f.jpg

 

20150404_184854_zpsiwy4v0aa.jpg

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A set of flex a lite 420 fans would work even better as they are thinner. i ran these on my L31 swapped blazer. they are a bit more expensive than the intrepid fans but will free up a bit more room.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-420

 

I have a set in the basement waiting to go in the zr2 whenever i get a new radiator made.

Edited by 6speedblazer

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another thing. what year is your blazer and what year is the dornor LS1 (maybe i missed that)

 

Tuning these things in a 4x4 s10 can get a bit tricky.

 

you need to start with some sort of 4x4 base tune or the trans will NOT shift on 4x4 low range. (ask me how i know)

 

also it can be tricky to get AC to work depending on how you set it up.

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Manual valve body, problem solved. :lol:

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Shouldn't matter with the 231

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It will still require a 4x4 tune even with a 231.

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Just to carify. The transmssion will not shift gears when the t case is in low range without a 4x4 tune

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You can run a floor shift with the 231 just have to do something custom like I'm doing or get an aftermarket shifter and mount that in there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I want it all to remain factory looking.

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what year blazer? why change your rad?

Maybe I'm confusing things in my head, but I thought the factory radiator in the factory location and e-fans didn't work with an LS?

 

I've read so much over the past few months I can't keep it straight :lol: I'll end up re-reading it all I'm sure.

i have a factory 4.3L HD radiator in the stock location with intrpid e-fans. check my thread i have clearance pictures.

 

it cooled decently well. never over heated at idle but got a little warmer than i liked under load (towing a boat or trailer) on the highway with high ambient temps.

Good to know. Maybe I'm just confusing shit again, I've read so much over the years it probably all blends together.

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another thing. what year is your blazer and what year is the dornor LS1 (maybe i missed that)

 

Tuning these things in a 4x4 s10 can get a bit tricky.

 

you need to start with some sort of 4x4 base tune or the trans will NOT shift on 4x4 low range. (ask me how i know)

 

also it can be tricky to get AC to work depending on how you set it up.

01 Blazer and 98 LS1

 

Hadnt heard that about the 4x4 before, that ks for the heads up. Wonder if that is because most guys (other than this site) are putting them in 2wd trucks that obviously don't have the low range issue.

 

I have zero clue about tuning, but maybe my friend can copy the 4x4/shift tables/code into the LS1 computer. I'll have to talk with him more.

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I wouldn't think it would matter with a 231 and full manual valve body.

 

 

But I think a full manual valve body with a column shift would be terrible. :lol:

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It will still require a 4x4 tune even with a 231.

ECM basing the shifts on speed and not RPM?

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ill have a look at it next time i open my tune, but i would suggest you use a 5.3L truck pcm because you will have less to modify on your original harness and the tune will be very simple. delete VATS, set injector pulse width against fuel pressure and maybe some timing if you cam it.

 

these swaps can be very straight forward so be careful what you read. some guys spend a lot of money when they dont have to.

 

another suggestion i have for you, if you care, is considering a hydroboost. they can be done very cheap, look great when done, improve braking power, and allow you more room to move your engine over. youll want the extra space with A/c.

 

what i would like to know is why guys dont think itll fit with the 1 ton idler.. the only pix i seen of it are where it uses a bracket that mounts it way out of the way of the pump..

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It will still require a 4x4 tune even with a 231.

ECM basing the shifts on speed and not RPM?

 

yes, rpm is only used as one of the factors of WOT shifting, all part throttle shifts are speed based.

 

 

another thing. what year is your blazer and what year is the dornor LS1 (maybe i missed that)

 

Tuning these things in a 4x4 s10 can get a bit tricky.

 

you need to start with some sort of 4x4 base tune or the trans will NOT shift on 4x4 low range. (ask me how i know)

 

also it can be tricky to get AC to work depending on how you set it up.

01 Blazer and 98 LS1

 

Hadnt heard that about the 4x4 before, that ks for the heads up. Wonder if that is because most guys (other than this site) are putting them in 2wd trucks that obviously don't have the low range issue.

 

I have zero clue about tuning, but maybe my friend can copy the 4x4/shift tables/code into the LS1 computer. I'll have to talk with him more.

 

another thing. what year is your blazer and what year is the dornor LS1 (maybe i missed that)

 

Tuning these things in a 4x4 s10 can get a bit tricky.

 

you need to start with some sort of 4x4 base tune or the trans will NOT shift on 4x4 low range. (ask me how i know)

 

also it can be tricky to get AC to work depending on how you set it up.

01 Blazer and 98 LS1

 

Hadnt heard that about the 4x4 before, that ks for the heads up. Wonder if that is because most guys (other than this site) are putting them in 2wd trucks that obviously don't have the low range issue.

 

I have zero clue about tuning, but maybe my friend can copy the 4x4/shift tables/code into the LS1 computer. I'll have to talk with him more.

 

you have to start with a 4x4 tune, last time i checked both EFI live and hptuners dont have the option to enable those settings in a tune. things might have changed in the last year or so.

 

also 98 ls1 computers suck. go with a 99 and up at least.

Edited by 6speedblazer

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ill have a look at it next time i open my tune, but i would suggest you use a 5.3L truck pcm because you will have less to modify on your original harness and the tune will be very simple. delete VATS, set injector pulse width against fuel pressure and maybe some timing if you cam it.

 

these swaps can be very straight forward so be careful what you read. some guys spend a lot of money when they dont have to.

 

another suggestion i have for you, if you care, is considering a hydroboost. they can be done very cheap, look great when done, improve braking power, and allow you more room to move your engine over. youll want the extra space with A/c.

 

what i would like to know is why guys dont think itll fit with the 1 ton idler.. the only pix i seen of it are where it uses a bracket that mounts it way out of the way of the pump..

 

the front end of the compressor would be very close to the bracket assembly.

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i just checked now, the pcm has no options to enable anything 4x4 (hptuners)

6speed is right, 98 pcm no good

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Nice Kevin! You can also do a manual-automatic valve body. That's what I have. Basically drives like an Auto in "D", but will hold any gear you put it in.

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