How To: Delete ABS Modulator, Install Proporting Valve

8 posts in this topic

ABS delete on a 1998 ZN4 ZR2 4WD S10 Std Cab, Short Box.


This is my first write-up/how-to ever so please PM me if anything is out of line or wrong or you think I should add or delete something.


This write up is to document the ABS Deletion on my S10, I don't know if this will work for other years and models. I will document every fitting and length of brake line as best I can. The truck is stock, it also has 197K+ miles on the stock lines, the calipers have been replaced about a year ago.


Before I continue, I would like to say that when I started this project, I was a total newbie to hard brake lines and didn't know a thing about correct fittings. Even worse was being unable to flare lines. Throughout this project I made 10+ trips to 3 different auto parts stores, the biggest obstacle was flaring. I had the auto-parts people flare three ends for me to try and show me, but they all failed and leaked. So the moral of the story is: Buy per-flared lines(The PN's listed will work perfect), and use adapters to complete the deletion if you cannot flare ends perfectly, or know someone who can. I also replaced my MC because I had bought it months ago but never installed it.


Pile of wasted brake lines due to bad flares:



Decided how far you want to go, and plan for disasters:


With these part numbers, you should be able to make one trip to the parts store, and have everything you need. I would not suggest to do this on a whim, where if another line fails, you would be screwed. I planed to only replace the first three lines, But when it got down to it, I had to also replace a drivers front caliper(Broken bleeder) and driver front line (Leaking). Also, My rear line(the 2nd line) twisted when I tried to remove it from the union, So I have to replace that also because i can tell my rear brakes are sucking due to nose diving on stops.





OEM Re manufactured master cylinder

PAX BLA-G360 AND 3/16 to 5/16 adapter – Brake line 8in

PAX BLA-G360 AND 3/16 to 7/16 adapter – Brake line 8in

PV4AK Proportioning Valve, (If you have a Disc/Drum setup, make sure you get the correct proportioning valve. this P# is for Disc/Disc)


PAX PA440 AND ¼ to 9/16 adapter – Brake line 1/4in 40in long

(2)PAX PA340 – Brake lines 3/16in 40in long




Alternatives to buying separate lines:

Part number CTB97S1


That is a kit for all 9 of the hard lines, OEM fittings, OEM fit and finish. It costs $150 for the steel version or $185 for stainless lines. This kit would allow you replace every hard line on your vehicle (Call or E-mail to verify first). This kit would be much easier then buying all separate lines, but you may have buy adapters still to get it to connect into your proportioning valve.



Decided how much you want to remove to get to the lines:


I tackled this project when I was replacing my rusty drivers fender and liner. This made the job much more simple. The biggest reason I replaced my lines and deleted my ABS was I knew they where about to go, They looked heavily corroded. I have been putting this project off for some time, but I knew when I had my fender off it wouldn't get any easier. If you decided to go as far as I did, make sure you test fit you inner fender before you start bleeding, the inner takes up a lot of room.



So far I have covered the hard parts so lets make a plan:

Decide how many lines your going to replace

Decide how far your going tear down to get to them

Do you have friend to help with bleeding? Are the parts stores open?

Does anything look like it is going to give you trouble? (Rusty bleeders, fasteners..)

Are you going to clean/paint anything nearby? (I thoroughly cleaned my master reservoir)

Make sure you have all of your parts in hand before tear down, Also don’t forget an ass-load of brake fluid. (I used 64oz)



Begin the ABS deletion:


This is how I did it: I took off my outer and inner fender and all the guts to them(Air box, washer tank, fuse box..) I then unbolted the master from the booster and let it fall to the side, I then grabbed a container and drained the master into that. Then I removed the clips holding in the lines, then the lines from the unions. After this was done I was able to remove the master+ABS Modulator+lines all in one swoop. Very little mess this was, then I put the whole thing in a bucket and removed the master reservoir. Now you should be looking at a very empty drivers fender area.




Depending on which path you went with as far which lines, you can how start re-asemble. First I bolted in my master and prop valve, then i installed the master to prop valve lines.




then I installed the lines going from the prop valve to the body lines.


NOTE: To make the lines seat the best, you should snug them into there locations, then loosen them and repeat, this will insure no leaks and a tight seal.




After this, you should bolt up your inner fender to make sure your lines clear.




If everything checks out, you can start bleeding. I bled in three ways, I first used a vacuum bleeder to remove all the nasty fluid and major air. Then I gravity bled them, finally I had someone pump the brakes and I cracked the bleeder.


Nasty Fluid:



After all those steps are complete, you should go over the new lines with a fine tooth comb for leaks. If a line is leaking, follow the direction above for making a good seat.




This was actually a very simple task. This harness(WSS Sensors):



Is attached to the air bag harness under the core support, Simply untape it and remove it for the air-bag harness, then retape and loom the air bag harness. There are three more plugs after that, A Purp/BLK two prong plug, with this one, I de-pined the plug, then de-pinned the wire from the 10prong plug and removed it. The blk wire can simply be taped up and the other 10 prong plug can be taped up and pushed out of the way. The last plug is the power/ground. I left this here because I am going to use it for my E-Fans.


ABS/Brake Light:

From everything I have read and seen. If you remove the ABS Modulator, you will have the ABS + Brake light on. On my truck, about a year ago i removed the ABS light using THIS guide. Now, after i removed my abs stuff, my brake light is not illuminated, more soo it works properly. I just may be lucky, or yours may do the same thing. But plan to have the ABS+Brake light on after you remove it.


Finishing up: After I had no leaks and my brakes worked I bolted everything back together. After some test-drives I have concluded my rear brakes are sucking. Like I mentioned, the rear brake line twisted a bit, which I think caused a minor kink.(DOH!) But I still have a great pedal and great brakes. I did not do this to get better breaking, I already had a great brake pedal, I did this so I could simplify the truck, and to replace the master and rusty lines.



Thanks for looking, Please if you have anything to say, bad or good, please post. I will modify this to reflect new/better info or pictures.

Edited by RareBreedZ

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I always wondered how hard it would be to do this. Would save a lot of $ spent and, well...every ABS problem :lol:



Great Write up! :clap:

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wow I need to do this. great write up RBZ

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There was a DIY over this on s10 forum and they said you needed a manual proportioning valve IIRC because the fronts were going to be naturally more aggressive on the braking than the rears. The manual valve would even them out a little better.

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There was a DIY over this on s10 forum and they said you needed a manual proportioning valve IIRC because the fronts were going to be naturally more aggressive on the braking than the rears. The manual valve would even them out a little better.


I'm not saying that is very bad, Like I said my rear line twisted a bit, so i know it is constricted. Once I replace that line, they I will see how they are. Thanks for the info though, I will add that!


Also, Can you link me to that write up? I was trying to find one, and I am planning on adding more info to this one and posting it over there.


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I just googled ABS delete s10 and a ton came up but this was the one I felt covered it best.




You will see that the waylayed website sells both the preset and the manual versions and there are a couple guys that chime in about needing to use a manual prop valve for the rear.



OK to clarify:


There are a-lot of s10 ABS delete threads but no how-to's or writes up's, all of those i have read thoroughly. Most did not fit my application, to give you an example, they asked about what fitting sizes a million times, and only one or two posts have the correct sizes listed. There is a small write up on how to delete the 4WAL system in the SY/TY's if you want to nit-pick.


I understand what you are saying about using a proportioning valve, or a adjustable one-line-only valve. Also the information is so scattered about what years, brake setups, DD or hot-rod; you get the idea.


After driving it for a couple of days, my brakes have returned to normal, as-in they stop great, great pedal. I have yet to do a panic stop, or replace that rear line though.


Mid-Week I will add the information about adjustable prop valves. Make sure you use the correct wording, you had me thinking that you meant for a manual brake setup IE: no booster.





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