blazer02zr2

What do you tow with your Z

288 posts in this topic

I would definitely buy a trailer over renting one so you have that option of selling it to get some money back. You're blazer should be able to tow it. As derek said, the concerns will be with the trans temp, brakes, and trailer sway. You probably already know this, but when you're loading that trailer make sure at least 60% of the weight is in the front of it, as this will help with the sway. The Davis, CA destination would be the hardest on your rig, as it's the longest, and you'll be going through the Rockies with likely some nice cross winds in the plains. The other ones are through relatively flat parts of the country, so as long as you don't push you're rig too hard, that drivetrain (with you're setup) will be fine.

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I would definitely buy a trailer over renting one so you have that option of selling it to get some money back. You're blazer should be able to tow it. As derek said, the concerns will be with the trans temp, brakes, and trailer sway. You probably already know this, but when you're loading that trailer make sure at least 60% of the weight is in the front of it, as this will help with the sway. The Davis, CA destination would be the hardest on your rig, as it's the longest, and you'll be going through the Rockies with likely some nice cross winds in the plains. The other ones are through relatively flat parts of the country, so as long as you don't push you're rig too hard, that drivetrain (with you're setup) will be fine.

As said above, Davis and or Ontario would be the worst for both distance and grades to pull. If you ran I-80 across, its not bad until you get into WY. Altitude starts climbing rapidly and there are several pretty fair pulls, but not extreme all the way through Salt lake and across the salt-flats. Then there are some mountains West of Salt Lake in the desert into NV, then you will have the Sierras and a pretty hard pull over Donner Pass just out of Truckee Ca, From there its all down hill into Sacramento.

I-70 thorough Denver is tons of hard high altitude pulling west of there.

Working your way down to I-40 is not a bad run at all, just a long boring drive really. Albuquerque NM and Flagstaff AZ can be bad in the winter but not any bad pulls, there is one really hard pull out of needles CA, and one more lesser pull going into the San Bernardino Valley.

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I've had the 700R4 and then 4L60E transmissions since 1987 and have never had a tranny failure. I've towed a utility trailer with two large garden tractors on it, a pop-up camper and hauled lumber with a tandem axle. I always put in the B&M strip kit that gave tire chirping shifts behind my 4.3 V6 engines. The only one that didn't chirp the tires is in my current 2003 S-10 that is computer controlled with the stock settings at the moment. It will chirp with the tuned computer installed. I run 15x10 rims on the back with 27/12.5R15 tires too. These are a really good transmission if you take care of them, run a cooler, Vette servo's and keep maintenanced. Currently I'm running the Trans-Go HD2 kit with good luck too.

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I am assuming the brakes are 3/4ton as well? I think your drive train is up to it just fine. Controlling the heat in the trans and keeping a close eye on it would be the next concern for the drivetrain but a 4L80E would be a great upgrade to help, that said it still could get cooked without care.

But that much weight behind a short coupled blazer on a half ton suspension would be scary. Like you said, trailer brakes and a weight distributing hitch with good sway control would be a must. That trailer ever gets to wagging on you, the short wheelbase of your blazer will be a problem.

You could do it, I see worse done all the time, but driving slow and sensible would be key.

Just my .02 worth.

 

I have 3/4 ton brakes all the way up to the master cylinder, and will be adding the hydroboost soon with the 3/4 ton PS pump. I would swap out my tranny cooler for a larger one with a separate efan. What speed would you recommend, 55mph max?

 

 

I would definitely buy a trailer over renting one so you have that option of selling it to get some money back. You're blazer should be able to tow it. As derek said, the concerns will be with the trans temp, brakes, and trailer sway. You probably already know this, but when you're loading that trailer make sure at least 60% of the weight is in the front of it, as this will help with the sway. The Davis, CA destination would be the hardest on your rig, as it's the longest, and you'll be going through the Rockies with likely some nice cross winds in the plains. The other ones are through relatively flat parts of the country, so as long as you don't push you're rig too hard, that drivetrain (with you're setup) will be fine.

 

 

 

I would definitely buy a trailer over renting one so you have that option of selling it to get some money back. You're blazer should be able to tow it. As derek said, the concerns will be with the trans temp, brakes, and trailer sway. You probably already know this, but when you're loading that trailer make sure at least 60% of the weight is in the front of it, as this will help with the sway. The Davis, CA destination would be the hardest on your rig, as it's the longest, and you'll be going through the Rockies with likely some nice cross winds in the plains. The other ones are through relatively flat parts of the country, so as long as you don't push you're rig too hard, that drivetrain (with you're setup) will be fine.

As said above, Davis and or Ontario would be the worst for both distance and grades to pull. If you ran I-80 across, its not bad until you get into WY. Altitude starts climbing rapidly and there are several pretty fair pulls, but not extreme all the way through Salt lake and across the salt-flats. Then there are some mountains West of Salt Lake in the desert into NV, then you will have the Sierras and a pretty hard pull over Donner Pass just out of Truckee Ca, From there its all down hill into Sacramento.

I-70 thorough Denver is tons of hard high altitude pulling west of there.

Working your way down to I-40 is not a bad run at all, just a long boring drive really. Albuquerque NM and Flagstaff AZ can be bad in the winter but not any bad pulls, there is one really hard pull out of needles CA, and one more lesser pull going into the San Bernardino Valley.

 

 

 

I've had the 700R4 and then 4L60E transmissions since 1987 and have never had a tranny failure. I've towed a utility trailer with two large garden tractors on it, a pop-up camper and hauled lumber with a tandem axle. I always put in the B&M strip kit that gave tire chirping shifts behind my 4.3 V6 engines. The only one that didn't chirp the tires is in my current 2003 S-10 that is computer controlled with the stock settings at the moment. It will chirp with the tuned computer installed. I run 15x10 rims on the back with 27/12.5R15 tires too. These are a really good transmission if you take care of them, run a cooler, Vette servo's and keep maintenanced. Currently I'm running the Trans-Go HD2 kit with good luck too.

 

My current 4l60e has the vette servo and shift kit but Im not sure what kind. Its a cash and carry, I gotta ask the shop what brand they use.

 

 

 

Thank you guys for all that info, better believe if I move to the west coast ill be printing this off for a reference. This has got to be the best replies I've ever gotten on a forum. I may keep my 4l60e with an LS if it can prove itself (really the shop's work quality) because its already smelling burnt and giving me 4th gear problems. There was a leak between the tcase and trans and I think when they adjusted the epc it was turned down too much. Its hard to get into 4th on the freeway. I cant go to hard or to soft on the throttle or it won't shift sometimes it will take some time. It seems like side roads it goes into 4th. Anyway, what gear tire combo would you guys recommend. Ive read 32s/33s with 4.56s are pretty good for towing. Keeping in mind Id have at least a 5.3 and that my daily tire size will be at least 37s/39s max with 4.88s/5.13s. My 35s and 4.10s when 4th gear actually works could get me a solid 17mpg on the hwy 13 city, fun fact, dont expect that while towing lol.

Edited by 2HIGHBlaZr2

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would it be plausible to pull a 16 or even 18 foot enclosed trailer 2K miles with a small 2 bedrooms house worth of shit with a BlaZr2? With that said this BlaZr2 will have hydroboost brakes, 2500 steering pump, 3/4 Dana 44 front, 14 bolt rear, auxiliary trans cooling, upgraded rear suspension and possibly LS motor 4l80e swap. Its just a question in the sense it'd be nice to have an excuse to buy a trailer as come August I more than likely will be moving. The options are Davis CA, outside of Manhatten, University of MI, or Guelph Ontario CA. I base this possible decision on the price of renting a uhaul which will be just over $2K in the rental itself not including gas. At that point I'd buy a used uhaul and try to sell it after the move. But I'm going to move back to Wisconsin in 5 years so now trailer seems the way to go. with my hobbies and not have started my family yet, plus im sure when i move back i will not be in my forever home, for the money spent a renting i could own a nice trailer. This will be mainly based on how far i move. If i move to Michigan ill probably just rent a truck being under 400 miles. Towing a large trailer with a short wheelbase (8.5' wheelbase, 14.75' body vs 16' trailer) is my main concern. Id do a weight distribution/sway control hitch, and electronic trailer brakes, but if its really going to be that unsafe ill forget about it. That all being said, this is just me sharing my thoughts because i think itd be interesting how much your towing capacity would increase with a 3/4 ton drivetrain, accessories, and suspension on a half ton vehicle.

 

I did this almost exactly when i moved from michigan to california. Largest u-haul available, packed to the top. Went middle of september, so it was hot. Overheated twice on hills, and had to stop when it started burping coolant. I had a couple points where I got some sway that amplified fast. Bottom line - not the safest load. Probably had ~6k or so of tow weight as much of it was tools, shop equipment and ammunition. Trailer brakes worked well, so no troubles stopping. Went 55 the whole way.

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I did this almost exactly when i moved from michigan to california. Largest u-haul available, packed to the top. Went middle of september, so it was hot. Overheated twice on hills, and had to stop when it started burping coolant. I had a couple points where I got some sway that amplified fast. Bottom line - not the safest load. Probably had ~6k or so of tow weight as much of it was tools, shop equipment and ammunition. Trailer brakes worked well, so no troubles stopping. Went 55 the whole way.

 

 

What were the specs on the towing vehicle,

do you recall how long the trip took at 55mph, straight through or hotel stops

how did you react to correct the sway you encountered/any advice on how to avoid it

off topic- was the cost of living difference between the 2 really matter as you should in a sense be paid in a similar income ratio?

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Basically a stock s-10 zr2 with a stout rebuilt trans and large trans cooler. 280k miles on truck, 150k on motor. No radio, no A/C.

Took just over 40 hours. No hotel stops, drove straight thru. Just took turns with the Mrs. the whole way. I only had a few days before I had to start the new job.

 

I'm no expert- but what seemed to be the key to avoiding sway was just going slow. When it did happen, I would just hold the wheel straight with and eagle claw grip and slowly ease into the brakes and it would settle right out. The hydraulic trailer brakes on the uhaul were fickle, they worked but not until you really got on the truck brakes first.

 

Taxes are more in commiefornia, but im making more, so its not too bad. I doubt that's the case for everyone. I landed a pretty decent job after making shit my whole life. I live in the desert where there is a lower-than-average cost of living compared to the rest of the state, but it is about the same as it was in Michigan.

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I tow a 28 foot camp trailer around 6200-7000 lbs

331E4F0B-2981-40A7-A8C7-12364EE47F45-126

162D1094-F77C-4B7F-B356-DAE54DD0B369-841

71F742DF-0257-4FAF-8D08-115A1F8B3582-431

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Nice!! Wow, that's a big camper. You have a V8 swap?

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Yes I have a l31 but I towed it with the 4.3 for around 1 year , with the 4.3 I just took the 37s of and swaped them for 33s and it towed great (4.56 gears ) but with the l31 it tows great on the 37s . The last pic was even out on the sand dunes had no problem getting out there in the soft sand

Edited by rabbit

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Part of me says you're crazy, but at least you have a W/D hitch and it appears everything is level. My only concern would be insurance denying your claim in the event of an accident, due to towing beyond the rated capacities of the tow vehicle... but hey, if it works, carry on.

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I was a little worry about how it would handle at first but , wheel base is as long as a suburban and it pretty heavy with all my mods , big 4 wheel disk help with stopping and to be honsit the truck handles it very we'll never feels like the trailers pushing the truck around or sway problems ( towed better then my old z71 extra cab short bed really ) and suprizingly I can pull long grades with ac on with the v8 with no over heating problems

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I towed a 1986 Nomad M-2440 24.5 foot trailer with my 2001 ZR2 Blazer. It did a lot better than I thought by keeping in third gear and the torque converted locked down the freeway. I have a weight distributing hitch and a Tekonsha P3 brake controller and the trailer felt under control. I drove down the freeway at 65mph with power to go faster. Then driving over the mountain with about 6% grade I still did 55mph.

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