Jump to content
Zr2USA.com

Burned

ZR2 Owner
  • Content count

    638
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Burned

  • Birthday 04/26/1967

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
  • Interests
    Mountain Biking, computers

Previous Fields

  • Name:
    Wouldn't you like to know
  • Country
    Canada
  • State or Providence:
    British Columbia
  • ZR2 Year:
    1997
  • ZR2 Color:
    Emerald Green
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy S10
  1. Engine quit for no obvious reason

    Yes those pesky crank sensors can stop you dead. Usually it will cause the rpm to be erratic when there is a problem with it.
  2. Engine quit for no obvious reason

    Spray starter fluid down the throttle body to see if it starts and then you will know if its the fuel pump or not. It can also be the ignition coil, when they go the truck will die instantly. Due to the fact these engines only have one coil I always carried a spare with me. Very easy to sit it by the old one and plug it in and away you go. Without any tools you could have pulled the coil wire and laid it by metal to see if you had a nice blue spark while the engine was cranked. A can of starter fluid is also handy to figure out if its a fuel issue. You either have a dead coil or fuel pump. Could also be ICM but who knows till any testing is done. Do you hear the fuel pump priming? Fuel pressure must be 60-66 psi key on, engine off. Pressure must remain above 55 psi for 10 minutes after pump shuts off
  3. Speaker whining

    For those of you that are having the whine in the speakers. Check your alternator. You may be getting AC ripple from the alternator. Alternators produce AC voltage and then its converted to DC volts by the rectifiers (diodes) Your meter reading should not exceed .09 volts (90 mV) AC across the battery while at 1500 rpm
  4. ABS sensor

    The ABS on these vehicles are crap. Rust builds up and pushes the sensor away from the reluctor ring, then causing the wheel speed sensor to read the rotation wrong. Testing the wheel speed sensors You can check the sensors yourself with a multimeter set to the mV-AC setting. Disconnect the WSS (wheel speed sensor) and connect the multimeter to the two leads in the connector to the sensor. Spin the wheel. The mV-AC output should be around 300mV for a properly working WSS. Check both. If it is below 250mV-AC, then you have a sensor problem that could be due to excessive air gap between the sensor and the reluctor ring inside the hub. This can be cured by filing down the surface that the sensor mounts to on the hub assembly. This will tighten the air gap, increasing the output of the sensor. The information below will show you how to troubleshoot your front ABS and determine where the problem is before you go out and buy a new hub. Here is how to troubleshoot it: 1. Remove both wheels, remove the caliper, pull the rotor, unplug the speed sensor, hook up a digital meter to the speed sensor plug, spin the hub by hand. If you don't have 300mv or more, go to step 2. 2. Remove the speed sensor screw, clean the sensor real well as well as the mating surface, reinstall and measure your voltage, if less than 300 mv go to step 3. This where most people would buy a hub... don't do it yet! 3. Remove the speed sensor again and look at the mating surface. You may not realize it at first, but the mating surface is a stainless spacer that is held to the hub with a rivet, hit the bottom of the rivet head with a chisel but don't try to cut it off, doing this will raise the rivet and you will eventually be able to grab it with vice grips and pull it out and release the spacer. 4. Stuff the sensor hole with a torn off piece of paper towel and flat file the surface to make it clean and smooth. Clean the stainless sensor and make sure that it's flat. 5. Put a little waterproof grease on the hub's sensor mounting surface and a little on the O ring that is around the speed sensor and reinstall. 6. Check your voltage *********** CAUTION.... DO NOT leave the stainless spacer out!!!!!!!!!! ********** Failure to reinstall the stainless sensor will result in the wheel sensor being too close to the reluctor wheel and it will break a tooth on the reluctor wheel and destroy the speed sensor as well. If you break just 1 tooth on the reluctor wheel, your ABS will fire on EVERY REVOLUTION of the wheel!!
  5. MSD plug wires

    Autolite Professional series are good wires for the money for the 4.3 Vortec.
  6. Just hit 200,000 miles...what tune up is needed??

    Distributor gear or distributor- they wear All the fluids-brake, coolant, front and rear diff, tranny AC Delco cap and rotor Plug wires AC Delco plugs Lower intake gasket been done?
  7. Wipers dont work and heat/ac doesn't blow

    https://youtu.be/eX0EcG8QkYA?t=66
  8. Wipers dont work and heat/ac doesn't blow

    There is a well know problem with the wiper pulse control board on these vehicles. It controls the wiper motor.You can replace the board or repair it. The cold solder joints break over time and need to be re done. Search the net for diagrams on which solder joints need fixing. BTW the wiper board is located on the firewall in front of the wiper motor under the black cover.
  9. Codes P0301 and P0302

    At about 2000 RPMs on the highway they hover around 10-12%. Edit: Today the short term were at 0% or slightly negative and the long term were at 3%. At 2000 RPM they were slightly negative. I didn't change anything. Not sure why they changed? Your short term fuel trims should be less than 10% at idle. Computer has adjusted.
  10. Codes P0301 and P0302

    I don't feel any misfires, it's running good. I'm not sure if those are false readings due to needing a crank relearn? The crankshaft position sensor relearn must be performed so the PCM can learn exactly where the magnetic field is directed. The relearn data is stored in the PCM until the next relearn overwrites it. If the relearn is not done, the PCM will use the data from the last relearn, which is incorrect. The engine will start and run with incorrect data, but not properly. Every calculation and adjustment that the PCM makes is based on crankshaft position sensor data, it's got to be correct. The PCM uses crankshaft position sensor data, along with camshaft position sensor data, to detect, and accurately identify cylinder misfire. The camshaft position sensor is located in the distributor. The reading is viewed on a scan tool as "camshaft retard". When it is adjusted correctly, the sensor is aligned with the camshaft and the rotor segment is aligned with the terminals in the distributor cap when the ignition coil fires. This reduces/eliminates crossfire inside the cap and increases the longevity of the cap. The adjustment is done by slightly rotating the distributor and watching the scan tool. The throttle must be snapped to 2Krpm and back to idle before the reading is accurate. Desired spec is zero degrees with a tolerance of + or- 2 degrees. Camshaft retard needs to be checked/adjusted every time the distributor is installed, or disturbed. The farther off the adjustment is, the more crossfire in the cap. The accuracy of misfire detection and cylinder identification decreases as well.
  11. Codes P0301 and P0302

    Out of curiosity is your truck a 2001? Always use AC Delco timing covers, aftermarket covers are thinner and warp. When the crank sensor was first replaced it should have been noted if the reluctor was hitting the sensor. Shims must be used if that is the case. A maximum of 2 shims is allowed. If that is not enough then the timing cover should be replaced. Whenever a crank sensor or timing cover is removed, a crank relearn must be performed. Its not uncommon for the main bearings to wear on these engines and cause the crank to walk. Seems to happen more to the 2001 years. Did you check the distributor gear also? As well as set the cam retard? You need a capable scanner to do that Car gauge pro can do it. Or you can get it checked when you get the crank relearn done.
  12. Codes P0301 and P0302

    Whenever a distributor is removed or replaced its recommended to have the cam retard checked. If the cam retard is not correct it can cause crossfire within the cap. You may also want to check fuel pressure and leak down. Read post #17
  13. If everything checks out with the wiring and you tested it while charging. I would say the voltage regulator in the alternator is bad.
  14. Codes P0301 and P0302

    P0300 is almost always caused by a fault in secondary ignition. These are the secondary ignition parts that must be correct before continuing with diagnostics: Spark plugs: AC Delco 41-993 with a gap of .060" Distributor cap & rotor: Needs to be AC Delco, (yes, it does make a difference). It needs a dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, inside and out. Plug wires: AC Delco, Autolite professional series, Belden, (good quality parts, no AZ stuff). Ignition coil: The OEM style coil is capable of producing 40K+ volts, (way more than necessary). P0300 can also be caused by incorrect camshaft retard, worn distributor shaft bushings, and low fuel pressure. AC Delco caps use aluminum terminals. The problem with aluminum is that it oxidizes. A dab of silicone dielectric grease on each terminal, (inside and out) of the cap, slows the oxidation process. The insulation of the runners in the cap is an area that the aftermarket manufacturers fail miserably at. As a result, you end up with crossfire in the cap. Stick with AC Delco cap & rotor. Make sure that camshaft retard is within factory specs, that alone will increase cap & rotor longevity. Camshaft retard streaming data is viewed on a capable scan tool. Preferred spec is zero degrees with a tolerance of +or- 2 degrees. It is adjusted by rotating the distributor, and it's part of the job when installing the distributor to check and adjust it. If it's out of spec, crossfire will occur inside the cap causing the engine to misfire. The farther off it is, the more crossfire. The only DTC that might be set, is P0300. If camshaft retard is off ~27 degrees or more in either direction, P1345 will set in memory and turn the SES light on. Distributor shaft bushings: There must be no radial play. Best to check it with an oscilloscope. Fuel pressure: Key ON, engine OFF, (fuel pump will run for ~2 seconds and shut off). Fuel pressure must be checked when the pump is running: Pressure must be 60psi to 66psi. It must remain above 55psi for at least 10 minutes after the pump shuts off. If you lose pressure while sitting it may be caused by the pump check valve, fuel pressure regulator, or leaky injectors. If all above is good then I would do a compression and leak down check on the affected cylinder(s)
  15. alternator upgrade

    Common and well known upgrade. The AD244 is a superior upgrade over the stock CS130D. Higher amperage and better built bridge rectifier setup. This upgrade goes hand in hand with the big 3. All that is needed is a 1" longer fan belt. https://youtu.be/aOPcnX7V7i4
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.