Subscribed ZR2 Owner
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About #35

  • Birthday 09/17/1980

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Delta, BC

Previous Fields

  • Name:
    Justin F.
  • Country
  • State or Providence:
    British Columbia
  • ZR2 Year:
  • ZR2 Color:
  • ZR2 Model:
    GMC Highrider
  1. Yep, Gsmobile's got you here. As a glass professional, I have access to many products that can fix this issue. I carefully glued mine down with primerless urethane. Simply remove them and clean areas to be in contact with urethane, run a really small (1/8 diameter) bead inside that belt moulding and refit. Ensure its exactly where it needs to be and allow product to dry. This belt moulding does need to tuck slightly under the side view mirror, so it may be helpful and easier for you to loosen the 2 lower bolts holding your mirror to accommodate an easier reinstall.
  2. Looks like I found this topic late, I can help you if you still need it. I've got over a dozen years experience dealing with glass repair. First off: NEVER use silicone on a vehicle!!!! It is acidic and will create I giant rust problem for you and a much worse leak in the future!!! From what I've read so far, I think your sunroof is leaking, prob not the windshield. I bet your seeing water coming down the windshield, but the problem is a plugged sunroof drain. Open your sunroof, pour water onto the area where the drains are and look in your wheel wells to see the water draining. If one side is slow or blocked, you've found the culprit. Use compressed air to unclog the pipe. This is. A common problem for all sunroofs. Message me if you need more help or questions answered, I'm the one to ask.
  3. I like stainless rivets because they are hard and usually durable.
  4. Hey from BC
  5. Hey from BC
  6. Yes, they are equally simple. Make sure you use the proper sized rivet and you are good. Don't screw it on, the metal is thin and not designed to take a screw.
  7. I just replaced my T-case switch, since my 4x4 wouldn't fully disengage(thank you search function). When I disconnected the vacuum lines a whole bunch of ATF poured out of the lines. I am pretty sure oil shouldn't be in vacuum lines, so I wonder what caused this?? After draining those lines as best I could and installing the new switch, my 4x4 went back to acting properly. Any sage words of advise from the in-the-know crowd?? TIA.
  8. I'd love to see a picture of what you are describing. If you can provide that, I'll tell you exactly what you are seeing. I have a few ideas, but I'd like to give a professional opinion and not simply some educated guesses. And slick1, quit it with the glass is liquid theories.......don't you remember this thread: Go 13 posts down for a different trusted professional's opinion on this topic.
  9. Okay, First pull the driveshaft. This is a great time to grease/replace U-joints. You can disconnect either U-joint. I prefer the rear, since it's bolted on. Pull the slip yoke from the T-case. Re-Re the seal, clean mating surfaces. I tapped mine on with a giant socket for a nice, even seat. There is probably a little hole in that seal on the rubber cone portion; iirc that is supposed to point down. Check the other two seals for leakage(t-case/tranny and t-case/front driveshaft). Reinstall the driveshaft. Drain what's left in the case and refill. Easy fix.
  10. There is no 'winter' position on S-10s. Take the 3 torx screws off the cover that holds that board. Carefully pull it out and look at all the soldering. Some will be corroded. Resolder and you'll be good to go.
  11. Sounds like the power window motor is tired. Take off the door panel and put your hand on the motor, have the window go up and down until it stops working and see if that motor is hot. They are designed to turn off when they overheat to prevent fires. Link to the motors on Jigg's site . . . . . . Its a fairly easy fix, I can give hints and tips for that too, if need be. This problem is not exclusive to S-10's. I've replaced more Honda and Toyota power window motors than anything else in my shop.......
  12. That's a wonderful idea!!! How about newb UFC filmed and posted in the member's only section???
  13. Yeah, I'd be parking beside a wall and carefully checking my exhaust, piece by piece.
  14. I realise I'm helping to beat a dead horse, but ..... I put bosch plugs in my last S-10 and experienced the misfiring, jumpy bad times that some of us trying these plugs did. Yes, gapped and installed correctly. New Delco plugs effectively undid that mess.
  15. Replacing the entire wiper arm is cheaper and more effective than simply replacing the spring. And blazeallday: Just so you know, there is very little left on the market for 'american' glass. Automotive glass is supplied from about 30 different countries worldwide. Foreign glass isn't necessarily inferior to 'american' glass(better in some cases), and not all chinese windshields are cheap crap. Like you proudly said: Fix the problem. The problem was a worn wiper arm not delivering enough pressure to properly wipe the windshield. Glass origin isn't a factor. Right now, in my personal opinion and experience, I think pound for pound the biggest offending country at producing substandard parts is South Africa. Brazil is bad too. I wonder if Travis cares to offer his opinion on where the highest percentage chance of getting bunk parts is??