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rapsure

ZR2 Owner
  • Content count

    55
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About rapsure

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  • Name:
    Brian Beardall
  • Country
    United States
  • State or Providence:
    Utah
  • ZR2 Year:
    2001
  • ZR2 Color:
    Olympic White
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy BlaZeR2
  1. Engine go boom

    That is why I had a step 7 in my instructions so that you could get to those top belhousing bolts. The way I did it is then I took a long extension with a u-joint socket and zipped those bolts off with my impact gun.
  2. Engine go boom

    I did this a year ago. Since I did the entire thing myself I can give some pointers and steps. 1. Remove all accessories from front of motor. Set AC to the side. remove power steering and disconnect oil lines from power steering gear. 2. Remove throttle body, and distributor cap. 3. Remove starter. 4. remove bolts of torque converter through starter hole. 5. Unplug everything on the motor. (Lots of stuff). 6. disconnect fuel lines. 7. Either jack up the body a few inches or lower the transmission. 8. Disconnect exhaust flanges from the manifolds. 9. Remove bell housing bolts using an extension, and u-joint adapter on an impact gun. 10. Insert bolt on passenger side head for chain, and on drive side front of motor for chain. 11. Take weight off of motor mounts using engine hoist. 12. Remove bolt holding motor mounts to body. 13. Move motor up and forward slightly. 14. Remove bolts on heads holding wires. 15. Carefully remove motor. That is most of everything. Took me about 14 hours to remove and another 14 hours to install the motor. The motor isn't very heavy and so one person can do all the lifting and work. It is nice to have another person spotting for anything that snags on its way out. I did leave out the removing the hood, but that is pretty easy too with two people. I used the high volume oil pump, and I had a high volume oil pump that had been previously installed which neither one has given me any problem at any RPM or load.
  3. ignition timing advance during acceleration

    So I have reprogrammed my vehicle and timing is based off of RPM and calculated grams of air in cylinder. Both the MAP sensor and the MAF must be working correctly on the truck to run correctly. If the truck has good torque but fails to accelerate very well then it could be the MAP sensor. There is a range that the MAP can be off without throwing any codes. If the error is great enough then the transient fueling will be off either on the rich side or the lean side. This error occurs more quickly than the computer can compensate for by the O2 sensors which will cause the truck to accelerate poorly. If you have bad injectors then that should be picked up by misfires. The OBDII scanners will not read the misfires on the 2002 PCM. To read misfires you'll need something like hptuners or the GM Tech 2.
  4. Clean way to delete oil cooler lines?

    I do have an external transmission cooler. I'm actually going to use the radiator transmission cooler too. I just had to purchase adapters so that I could attach the lines. The Champion 3 row radiator has so much cooling capacity that the transmission should stay cool regardless of load or outside temperature.
  5. Clean way to delete oil cooler lines?

    So what I did was I used a brass 90 degree fitting and wrapped the oil cooler lines back. I also had to reroute the transmission cooler line to skip the radiator even though it has a transmission cooler. The reason for the big radiator was I supercharged the Blazer and I needed more than factory cooling to keep the whole setup from over heating during hot summer days and working hard while running the A/C. From what I've measured I should be getting close to 240hp at the wheels.
  6. Clean way to delete oil cooler lines?

    Although mounting on the block sounds cool I don't like the lack of access. I have 4wd and so the access at the block where the filter would mount is something like barely accessible through the wheel well.
  7. So I just purchased a 3 row champion radiator. The radiator is: http://shop.championcooling.com/1996-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-Chevrolet-S-T-SERIES-PICKUPS-SKU-1826 The radiator doesn't come with the oil cooler/heater part and so I need to delete that portion from the remote adapter. What have others done that worked well and clean to delete the oil cooler lines?
  8. No Start in Extreme Cold

    I had a similar problem. I could start the vehicle temporarily and it would die. I could get it to start again and I would be good. Then one day I was doing an errand and it died and I had to tow it back home. The problem turned out to be the fuel pump. To build 60psi in the fuel pumps there are two stages. In my fuel pump the second stage gave out. I replaced the spider with the MPFI setup and was able to start the motor, but running pressure was weak and had to replace the fuel pump. If you do the fuel pump get a Delphi. They are the OE manufacturer and have better flow and more even pressure at the intake manifold than the other brands. The OE spider injectors require ~45psi to even spray. Below ~45psi the valves remain closed and no fuel will be sprayed. The MPFI injectors will spray down to below 25psi.
  9. Reman short block?

    With all that work in the top end I think it would make sense to have someone rebuild the bottom end. Do you do your own mechanic work?
  10. Secondary air injection check valve failure

    I have fixed the check valve breaking problem. The first catalytic converter had about a 1/3 blockage from debris. I had the cat replaced with a single Magnaflow 99009HM converter. Took me a couple of months to fully test the fix, but I don't think the check valves will break again. I was building enough back pressure that the check valves couldn't hold the backflow and so then they would roast once the exhaust started to leak past, or internally fracture. The test ended up getting the exhaust glowing from the manifolds down to the muffler.
  11. Transfer Case/Vacuum Lines

    6 ft will replace the entire line from the fork in the vacuum lines near the canister to the solenoid and then to the diaphragm that sits under the battery . Depending on the year of your vehicle you might have a vacuum line going down the another solenoid in front of the motor for the secondary air injection system. About 12 feet of one size of vacuum hose will replace every hose except for a shorter larger line from the intake manifold to the check valve. I don't remember the hose sizes, but it is easy enough to just get them measured or someone else will likely know.
  12. Non egr to egr manifold swap

    So the egr needs the tube from bank 1 into the intake manifold. The EGR then dumps the exhaust gas into the intake and hence the heads, and block have nothing to do with the egr working or not. I had an EGR malfunction and it didn't kill the motor. Perhaps a couple of pictures could sort this out?
  13. Overheating Uphill

    Did you change the water pump? The water pump may not be pumping enough water.
  14. Secondary air injection check valve failure

    My fuel trims are at 10% on driver side, and 9.5% on the passenger side at WOT. At idle the fuel trims drop to 0% on driver side to -3% on the passenger side. I was out vacationing towing a trailer when I broke it. I just took both check valves and crimped the ends so that the exhaust would go down past the O2 sensors instead of out the failed check valve.
  15. Fan clutch

    The fan clutch from Autozone I purchased appears to be failing in a different manner. The seals that hold the silicone fluid seems to have blown because I am getting a clear fluid getting flung all over the front of the motor and the fan isn't engaging as strongly as it was when new. Doesn't help that I was towing at capacity in triple digit weather with big climbs, and head wind.
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