ZR2 Owner
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rapsure

Previous Fields

  • Name:
    Brian Beardall
  • Country
    United States
  • State or Providence:
  • ZR2 Year:
  • ZR2 Color:
    Olympic White
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy BlaZeR2
  1. So I have reprogrammed my vehicle and timing is based off of RPM and calculated grams of air in cylinder. Both the MAP sensor and the MAF must be working correctly on the truck to run correctly. If the truck has good torque but fails to accelerate very well then it could be the MAP sensor. There is a range that the MAP can be off without throwing any codes. If the error is great enough then the transient fueling will be off either on the rich side or the lean side. This error occurs more quickly than the computer can compensate for by the O2 sensors which will cause the truck to accelerate poorly. If you have bad injectors then that should be picked up by misfires. The OBDII scanners will not read the misfires on the 2002 PCM. To read misfires you'll need something like hptuners or the GM Tech 2.
  2. I do have an external transmission cooler. I'm actually going to use the radiator transmission cooler too. I just had to purchase adapters so that I could attach the lines. The Champion 3 row radiator has so much cooling capacity that the transmission should stay cool regardless of load or outside temperature.
  3. So what I did was I used a brass 90 degree fitting and wrapped the oil cooler lines back. I also had to reroute the transmission cooler line to skip the radiator even though it has a transmission cooler. The reason for the big radiator was I supercharged the Blazer and I needed more than factory cooling to keep the whole setup from over heating during hot summer days and working hard while running the A/C. From what I've measured I should be getting close to 240hp at the wheels.
  4. Although mounting on the block sounds cool I don't like the lack of access. I have 4wd and so the access at the block where the filter would mount is something like barely accessible through the wheel well.
  5. So I just purchased a 3 row champion radiator. The radiator is: http://shop.championcooling.com/1996-1997-1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004-2005-Chevrolet-S-T-SERIES-PICKUPS-SKU-1826 The radiator doesn't come with the oil cooler/heater part and so I need to delete that portion from the remote adapter. What have others done that worked well and clean to delete the oil cooler lines?
  6. I had a similar problem. I could start the vehicle temporarily and it would die. I could get it to start again and I would be good. Then one day I was doing an errand and it died and I had to tow it back home. The problem turned out to be the fuel pump. To build 60psi in the fuel pumps there are two stages. In my fuel pump the second stage gave out. I replaced the spider with the MPFI setup and was able to start the motor, but running pressure was weak and had to replace the fuel pump. If you do the fuel pump get a Delphi. They are the OE manufacturer and have better flow and more even pressure at the intake manifold than the other brands. The OE spider injectors require ~45psi to even spray. Below ~45psi the valves remain closed and no fuel will be sprayed. The MPFI injectors will spray down to below 25psi.
  7. With all that work in the top end I think it would make sense to have someone rebuild the bottom end. Do you do your own mechanic work?
  8. I have fixed the check valve breaking problem. The first catalytic converter had about a 1/3 blockage from debris. I had the cat replaced with a single Magnaflow 99009HM converter. Took me a couple of months to fully test the fix, but I don't think the check valves will break again. I was building enough back pressure that the check valves couldn't hold the backflow and so then they would roast once the exhaust started to leak past, or internally fracture. The test ended up getting the exhaust glowing from the manifolds down to the muffler.
  9. 6 ft will replace the entire line from the fork in the vacuum lines near the canister to the solenoid and then to the diaphragm that sits under the battery . Depending on the year of your vehicle you might have a vacuum line going down the another solenoid in front of the motor for the secondary air injection system. About 12 feet of one size of vacuum hose will replace every hose except for a shorter larger line from the intake manifold to the check valve. I don't remember the hose sizes, but it is easy enough to just get them measured or someone else will likely know.
  10. So the egr needs the tube from bank 1 into the intake manifold. The EGR then dumps the exhaust gas into the intake and hence the heads, and block have nothing to do with the egr working or not. I had an EGR malfunction and it didn't kill the motor. Perhaps a couple of pictures could sort this out?
  11. Did you change the water pump? The water pump may not be pumping enough water.
  12. My fuel trims are at 10% on driver side, and 9.5% on the passenger side at WOT. At idle the fuel trims drop to 0% on driver side to -3% on the passenger side. I was out vacationing towing a trailer when I broke it. I just took both check valves and crimped the ends so that the exhaust would go down past the O2 sensors instead of out the failed check valve.
  13. The fan clutch from Autozone I purchased appears to be failing in a different manner. The seals that hold the silicone fluid seems to have blown because I am getting a clear fluid getting flung all over the front of the motor and the fan isn't engaging as strongly as it was when new. Doesn't help that I was towing at capacity in triple digit weather with big climbs, and head wind.
  14. I'm back to this problem again. While I was towing the driver side check valve got so hot that the paint burned off and it failed. Because my vehicle is equipped with this system it is technically illegal to delete. I live in an emission compliant area where testing is done. I'll have to take pictures of the damage because this one looks way cooler than the last failure. Surprisingly the fan still blows air. I called to see if I could get the system disabled but they won't due to liability reasons and the fact that there is a group of people suing business that have modified any emissions equipment here.
  15. So the Autozone Duralast is working and keeps working after towing. The Autozone Duralast is manufactured by US Motor Works and seems to be a tougher design. The fan clutch I kept breaking was a NAPA manufactured by Hayden / Four Seasons. I was breaking the fan clutch when above 80 degrees and towing climbing moutains. I was towing a small tent trailer, but this year I am towing a 25' hard shell camping trailer (still under the max towing capacity with weight distributing hitch). To test this I did a tow of 100 miles which included driving over a mountain pass at about 8,300', and significant grade of over 8% at times. My fan now continues to spin down when cooled down and that is what I was wanting.