mushisushi

ZR2 Owner
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    56
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About mushisushi

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  • Name:
    Adam
  • Country
    United States
  • State or Providence:
    Arizona
  • ZR2 Year:
    2000
  • ZR2 Color:
    Blue
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy S10
  1. For a temporary repair I am going to use one of the 2 gauge, 50" battery cables I found at Walmart, this should be sizeable enough until I can source a good lug for 1/0 gauge. Washers I used were almost certainly galvanized so that's my bad. Are lock washers okay to use in this application?
  2. To add more info: I pulled of the charge cable from the alternator. The heat shrink I had on it was totally melted through, and it looked like the wire had 'pulled' somewhat out of the lug itself, allowing it to vibrate more readily maybe? Not sure why it got so hot, because I got the cable lug off and it still had a pretty solid connection. I couldn't pull it off by hand. I did notice a large size mismatch between the heavy duty 1/0 copper lug and the alternator post which I sandwiched a steel washer between to fit better. Still not sure if this is an alternator or a wiring issue. And is there a better way to make a connection between the alternator and 1/0 wire other than using a steel washer like I did previously?
  3. Noticed my lights were flickering very subtle you and it began getting worse. Now it is almost strobing. The voltage in the dash is going 14 to halfway to 19. I inspected the alternator Post wiring and saw that the protective boot over the list has melted in some places and bare wire is exposed. The alternator is the upgraded AD244 I don't know if this is because the lug I had in the end of the wire is too small/resistive or because of an issue with the alternator. I can't drive it until I figure this out since it poses a safety hazard. Any advice is welcome on what I can do to figure out the cause.
  4. I noticed this morning that I was able to shift the auto transmission into drive without pressing the brake pedal. I don't know how long this has been occurring but this was the first time I noticed it because I shifted into gear while the parking brake was on. I was able to shift into and out of park without pressing the brake pedal, so now I'm worried I might accidentally knock it into reverse or something while I'm moving. Which parts should i investigate? I am not too familiar with which parts of the transmission might be affected.
  5. Wasn't that cold this morning - ambient temp was 54F, ECT read 59F and AIT read 53.4F. Truck started first time, though it did almost die, then came back. No bubbling noise today. I did however drive it until 10PM last night.
  6. I'll give it a go tomorrow morning with the scanner then.
  7. That's really what it sounds like. How does air get in there? and how do I get it out?
  8. I've got the 145A alternator upgrade, and I was wondering what the diameter of the lug/bolt that goes to the battery is. I need to have a 0 gauge cable custom made with the correct size ends, because I did a crappy job making my own terminals I can't check my own because it took a lot of effort to get the rubber boot on and if I take it off I think it's gonna break!
  9. I've had an issue every winter since I've owned this truck (for the last 3 years) and I haven't yet solved it. 1.5 years ago I replaced the injectors with MPFI to fix hard starting in the summer after the truck has been sitting. I haven't had a single issue this summer with hard starts so that is fixed for sure. As the weather got colder, I found that trying to start the truck in the morning (temps ~40F) that it will not start on the first try, even after letting the pump prime. After some deliberation, I replaced my noisy old fuel pump with a new Delphi pump which ran silently (nice!). However, this didn't solve the difficulty starting. Didn't have a problem after the winter last year though. It is now officially winter in Arizona again, and the temps where I am are down in the 30-40s and the same issue has come back. When I prime the pump after the truck has been sitting all night, I hear a weird 'bubbling' noise that seems to come from the engine compartment. I can prime it a few times and the bubbles are present. If I try to start the truck, it stumbles and dies. If I then let it sit for about a minute, and then prime it, I don't hear any bubbles and the truck starts up right away. What gives?! It sounds like maybe somehow air is in the lines that prevents pressure from building high enough until the air is forced out or something. I know the go-to test is to test the fuel pressure from the pump and before the plenum. I have done this procedure several times in the last year and a half and I will do so again to give you guys some better ideas, but I always had trouble measuring the fuel pressure at the filter. I used the special fitting with the autozone kit but I can never get the pressure to read on the gauge at the filter. I can only measure the pressure at the plenum where it is in the 55-60 psi range for 10 mins.
  10. The 3rd door handle is having issues. I removed it and saw that both rods were still tightly attached to the handle. I removed the handle and tested each rod. The upper rod still actuates the upper latch, but the lower rod moves freely and appears not to be actuating the lower latch. I don't see any obvious way to get into the bottom of the 3rd door to try and fix it, nor a way to open it without the handle. Any ideas?
  11. Not sure where my issue is. My 4WD works...intermittently. I can switch between 2HI/4HI/4LO, but sometimes I can't switch back until I mash the buttons in a random order. The lights in the 4WD switch will go out while I'm driving sometimes. When I try to switch out of 4HI to 2HI, the lights don't respond and no noise from the TCCM, but if I press 4LO, the light will flash and 4LO engages if I go into neutral. Sometimes I go from 4HI -> 4LO -> 4HI -> 2HI to get the dang thing to respond.
  12. I saw that the vacuum lines running from the T-case (the 3 lines are in a triangular arrangement) have rotted and are missing pieces. Does anyone know the lengths of all 3 lines so I can replace them properly? I can't do so since I am missing chunks.
  13. Ran the truck today for almost 2 hours in town, stop and go traffic with multiple stops with A/C blasting - no problems with overheating. Ambient temp was 110F Coolant sensor read 210F at the hottest. Looks like it was lack of coolant that was causing the problem!
  14. Sorry, I forgot to mention the rad cap was replaced last year when I flushed. I think it was just trapped air and not enough coolant. I will be doing a stress test later to determine the truth of it once the temps get hot!
  15. Not too messy with the wiring I hope, you can tell where I added because I had a bunch of multicolor electrical tape! Flexalite VSC mounted in the space between fusebox and ABS control unit: The #9 pin on Flexalite VSC needs an switched 12V source to make sure fans only turn on with vehicle. I wasn't sure which fuse to use, so I saw people had used the BU/LP (backup lamps) fuse as a switched 12V thinking that if something does 'blow' nothing critical will be lost in the operation of the vehicle. This part was one of the issues I had with the Flexalite kit - a blade fuse tap WAS included, but the spade connectors were too large to fit snugly onto the blade tap - I had to go get some 18-22Ga connectors. I would have preferred used one of these, but there wasn't enough clearance for the wire coming off the side no matter which way you inserted it - it would poke into the relays. If someone can tell me a better fuse to use I might swap it over since those are way more reliable and cleaner! I used a hot nail and pushed a hole for the #9 pin wire through the fusebox cover and one of the VSC mounting holes (top leftof 2nd picture). Ran the fan's harness through a hole I drilled into the factory fan shroud (most of the shroud is missing below the lip), used a rubber grommet to protect the wires from rubbing (and slipping), and popped in some wire loom holders onto the shroud as well. The E-fan required literally 1-2 mm shaved off each side. I used a flat chisel type tool heated with a blow torch to quickly shave off the required plastic. The E-fan fit snugly against the radiator, and then I used 2 self-piercing screws to secure it against the lips of the radiator core. Be careful! One of the less clean parts of the install, the Flexalite controller I got came with the push-in probe. I didn't realize my Z had a plug on the thermostat housing where I could have put one of Flexalite's thread-in temp probes. I placed the probe about 1.5 inches diagonally from the radiator inlet - and ran the wires through a little hole wrapped in electrical tape to protect against rubbing. In the future I may switched to a threaded probe, but for now this will do. Here's where I messed up. The VSC has 2 pins for connecting to the A/C - to engage fans at 60% when the A/C is running. I wasn't sure which wire on the A/C clutch harness ran the + signal - and I have a Sanden compressor so the wiring may have been different from stock compressor. I used the included T-taps....and the black/white striped wire provided the necessary +12V signal to engage the fans. Haven't found a good way to remove the T-tap from the wire I am not using.... Flexalite kit came with exactly enough wire (+about 6 inches) to run the power wires from where I installed the controller, up to the brake booster, across the firewall, down past the PCM and to the battery. Wire loom'd and ziptie'd the whole way. AD244 with a 0 gauge wire to battery also shown. I have a walmart brand battery with sideposts, so I used 'side post extenders' to easily attach all of the required wires for Big 3 and the fan controller. I put the included 40A inline fuse holder as close to the battery as possible, and if fits nicely into the space between the PCM and the A/C accumulator! Thanks for all the help you guys provided! Hopefully this can provide some motivation for others to do it.