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mushisushi

ZR2 Owner
  • Content count

    60
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About mushisushi

Previous Fields

  • Name:
    Adam
  • Country
    United States
  • State or Providence:
    Arizona
  • ZR2 Year:
    2000
  • ZR2 Color:
    Blue
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy S10
  1. Sudden Power Loss, Stall?

    Just in case it may be relevant, I did perform additional work on my alternator setup (big 3 with 145A AD244) as listed in this post. After I assembled the new alternator and additional sensing wire, I went for a test drive. As I drove for about 30 seconds, the battery light popped on, voltage dropped straight to 12V, and I lost power steering while the RPMs dropped suddenly. I do not know if it was a stall, but I stopped and pulled over and turned the key off right away. The way it felt was almost as if the key was switched off itself. No stumbling or stuttering that would normally be associated with a rough running engine. Suspecting it was related to the repair I just made, I checked all electrical connections which were good and re-seated the alternator plug wire just in case. Truck started up right away, and I drove it for 3 miles full throttle with AC and E-Fan running, with no other issues. Any ideas on what I can check? I don't even know if I can reproduce this. I would hate to lose power steering during a critical manuever. Only things messed with were power cables and alternator, serpentine belt removal and installation, splicing extra wire to the alternator plug, and disconnecting/reconnecting the EGR valve and coil pigtails (and the 3rd one that powers something else).
  2. Flickering Electrical/Bad Alternator?

    So I did the fix as above, I think correctly. I have included a picture to demonstrate the fix. I used a new pigtail and just added the old wire back onto it and a ring terminal on the other wire. I had one issue come up after I reassembled everything to test drive. As I was driving down the road, felt like a misfire happened, battery light came on and I lost power steering. Not sure if the actual engine stopped, as I simply stopped and turn off the key. Not sure what was up with that or if that is simply a seperate engine issue. Maybe the belt jumped or something? I figured it may have something to do with alternator, so I removed the pigtail and make sure everything was still in place, then re-seated it. Started back up with no issues and took it for a 3 mile drive with AC and fans and really revving it hard. The voltage stayed rock steady at 14V, and no strobing of the lights was apparent. Perhaps pertaining to the engine issue? Revving the enging at idle and then letting off the gas causes the RPMs to fall below the normal idle and almost feels like the engine will die and then it catches itself. Any help appreciated trouble shooting there. Not sure I want to lose power steering again...
  3. Flickering Electrical/Bad Alternator?

    You the man babydeuce, you always have the right answer. That post sounds exactly what is going on. I'll order the connector and report back. I'm having a little trouble understanding the directions though, and I can't see any of the pictures that were attached to that thread. Does anybody around here have a picture of what the finished product might look like?
  4. For the last month or so my internal and external lights have been pulsating with varying brightness, and the voltmeter would randomly spike between 14-16 volts. Last week as I was driving the alternator stopped charging and my battery started losing voltage. Tested the alternator (which was the 145A AD244-style) at the shop and they told me it was no good. The alternator was only 14 months old. I sent it back on warranty and put in the new one yesterday. Driving around for the whole day I had no issues. Today I went driving and the brightness of the lights began to pulsate again. This time however the voltmeter only shows 13-14 volts and doesn't spike above that as it was doing previously. I tried to recreate the issue as follows: Truck starts and no flickering is present. If I rev the engine somewhere above 1000+ RPM, the flickering begins and doesn't stop if I let the truck return to idle. If I rev the engine and let it return to idle, it sounds like it misfires as the RPMs drop to 400ish , and the voltmeter shows 12 volts or so, then it returns to high idle. When revving the engine, in addition the lights pulsating, the speedometer needle jumps up and down between 0-10MPH. I tried to see if the flickering was related to vibration or loose connections, but when I pulled on all of the different electrical connections they were tight and flickering didn't start, stop, or get worse. Kind of at a loss, not sure if this is alternator related again or if there is some underlying electrical issue that is causing the alternators to do this, and contribute to an early failure? As far as electrical mods, I have the big-3 upgrade, alternator is the AC DELCO PRO 145A, electrical fan and quad light mod going on.
  5. Alternator Post Getting Too Hot (Post-Big 3 Upgrade)

    For a temporary repair I am going to use one of the 2 gauge, 50" battery cables I found at Walmart, this should be sizeable enough until I can source a good lug for 1/0 gauge. Washers I used were almost certainly galvanized so that's my bad. Are lock washers okay to use in this application?
  6. Alternator Post Getting Too Hot (Post-Big 3 Upgrade)

    To add more info: I pulled of the charge cable from the alternator. The heat shrink I had on it was totally melted through, and it looked like the wire had 'pulled' somewhat out of the lug itself, allowing it to vibrate more readily maybe? Not sure why it got so hot, because I got the cable lug off and it still had a pretty solid connection. I couldn't pull it off by hand. I did notice a large size mismatch between the heavy duty 1/0 copper lug and the alternator post which I sandwiched a steel washer between to fit better. Still not sure if this is an alternator or a wiring issue. And is there a better way to make a connection between the alternator and 1/0 wire other than using a steel washer like I did previously?
  7. Noticed my lights were flickering very subtle you and it began getting worse. Now it is almost strobing. The voltage in the dash is going 14 to halfway to 19. I inspected the alternator Post wiring and saw that the protective boot over the list has melted in some places and bare wire is exposed. The alternator is the upgraded AD244 I don't know if this is because the lug I had in the end of the wire is too small/resistive or because of an issue with the alternator. I can't drive it until I figure this out since it poses a safety hazard. Any advice is welcome on what I can do to figure out the cause.
  8. Transmission Shift Lock?

    I noticed this morning that I was able to shift the auto transmission into drive without pressing the brake pedal. I don't know how long this has been occurring but this was the first time I noticed it because I shifted into gear while the parking brake was on. I was able to shift into and out of park without pressing the brake pedal, so now I'm worried I might accidentally knock it into reverse or something while I'm moving. Which parts should i investigate? I am not too familiar with which parts of the transmission might be affected.
  9. Weird noise and trouble starting

    Wasn't that cold this morning - ambient temp was 54F, ECT read 59F and AIT read 53.4F. Truck started first time, though it did almost die, then came back. No bubbling noise today. I did however drive it until 10PM last night.
  10. Weird noise and trouble starting

    I'll give it a go tomorrow morning with the scanner then.
  11. Weird noise and trouble starting

    That's really what it sounds like. How does air get in there? and how do I get it out?
  12. Size of 145A Alternator lug?

    I've got the 145A alternator upgrade, and I was wondering what the diameter of the lug/bolt that goes to the battery is. I need to have a 0 gauge cable custom made with the correct size ends, because I did a crappy job making my own terminals I can't check my own because it took a lot of effort to get the rubber boot on and if I take it off I think it's gonna break!
  13. Weird noise and trouble starting

    I've had an issue every winter since I've owned this truck (for the last 3 years) and I haven't yet solved it. 1.5 years ago I replaced the injectors with MPFI to fix hard starting in the summer after the truck has been sitting. I haven't had a single issue this summer with hard starts so that is fixed for sure. As the weather got colder, I found that trying to start the truck in the morning (temps ~40F) that it will not start on the first try, even after letting the pump prime. After some deliberation, I replaced my noisy old fuel pump with a new Delphi pump which ran silently (nice!). However, this didn't solve the difficulty starting. Didn't have a problem after the winter last year though. It is now officially winter in Arizona again, and the temps where I am are down in the 30-40s and the same issue has come back. When I prime the pump after the truck has been sitting all night, I hear a weird 'bubbling' noise that seems to come from the engine compartment. I can prime it a few times and the bubbles are present. If I try to start the truck, it stumbles and dies. If I then let it sit for about a minute, and then prime it, I don't hear any bubbles and the truck starts up right away. What gives?! It sounds like maybe somehow air is in the lines that prevents pressure from building high enough until the air is forced out or something. I know the go-to test is to test the fuel pressure from the pump and before the plenum. I have done this procedure several times in the last year and a half and I will do so again to give you guys some better ideas, but I always had trouble measuring the fuel pressure at the filter. I used the special fitting with the autozone kit but I can never get the pressure to read on the gauge at the filter. I can only measure the pressure at the plenum where it is in the 55-60 psi range for 10 mins.
  14. 3rd Door - Rod not engaging bottom latch

    The 3rd door handle is having issues. I removed it and saw that both rods were still tightly attached to the handle. I removed the handle and tested each rod. The upper rod still actuates the upper latch, but the lower rod moves freely and appears not to be actuating the lower latch. I don't see any obvious way to get into the bottom of the 3rd door to try and fix it, nor a way to open it without the handle. Any ideas?
  15. 4WD Switch or TCCM?

    Not sure where my issue is. My 4WD works...intermittently. I can switch between 2HI/4HI/4LO, but sometimes I can't switch back until I mash the buttons in a random order. The lights in the 4WD switch will go out while I'm driving sometimes. When I try to switch out of 4HI to 2HI, the lights don't respond and no noise from the TCCM, but if I press 4LO, the light will flash and 4LO engages if I go into neutral. Sometimes I go from 4HI -> 4LO -> 4HI -> 2HI to get the dang thing to respond.
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