g3tblunt

Subscribed ZR2 Owner
  • Content count

    82
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About g3tblunt

  • Birthday 09/25/1986

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle
  • Interests
    Welding, Wrenching, CAD, Guns, Camping.

Previous Fields

  • Name:
    Miguel
  • Country
    United States
  • State or Providence:
    Washington
  • ZR2 Year:
    2000
  • ZR2 Color:
    Blue/Black
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy BlaZeR2
  1. Yeah ill get a pic its sitting at my shop. As far as shipping cost i have no idea. Ill weigh it and shop around and get back to you.
  2. Welcome
  3. Does steering affect this? Im thinking ball joint or control arm bushings, like the previous poster's said if not. I've got a clunk right where youre refering to but it only happens on a left hand turn at low speed and its my center link. Keep looking. You'll find the culprit.
  4. Welcome
  5. thanks again burns. i guess my only reason to remove the cat would be to save money. thinking if i bought the $200 exhaust kit i could just delete the cat with a non fouler for the post cat 02 sensor. im looking at exhausts right now. i could just buy the cat and weld it in but like i said, but, at this point i want to replace the whole system as mine is dented in spots and not corrosion resistant its completely rusted. no leaks but rusty as shit. the dents might not be a huge issue as far as flow, but i hate the fact that its one solid piece. after having to sawzall the pipe before the cat and unbolt the y pipe from the manifolds, to get it out of the way to drop my transmission, for rebuild. i really want the exhaust to be removable. it still seems weird to me that both these codes indicated at the same exact time. i plugged in my scan tool again this morning to monitor everything from cold to hot. i pulled the #5 plug and it looks fine, slight carbon buildup on the threads but the tip is clean and tan color. the plug/wire from the distributor was still brand new no issues there. i did use acdelco 14 spark plugs as that is what oriely came up with for my vehicle. also i dont think the stock plugs are made anymore if i remember correctly. are these acceptable plugs? whats everyone else running? my rotor and cap still look brand new as well. no noticable arcing or corrosion. my fuel trim is slightly different from one bank to the other, though both LTFT are steady near 0. my STFT on both sides are similar on bank 2 (right side) it seems to hold between -3 and -8. on the left side where i had the misfire its holding between -3 and -5. tested @ idle and then upwards of 3000 RPM. where did you find the acdelco mpfi for $250? link? i found a delphi FJ10565 for $350. and a FJ10566. whats the difference? before i spend $300-$400 bucks on an injection system should i do a compression test or a leakdown test? or are you sure the injector is the culprit?
  6. please forgive my lack of knowledge on this subject. ive got a 2000 ls zr2 blazer with 165k on the clock. i just threw p305 and p420 codes on friday at the same time. heres a link to my thread on trying to figure this out with a lot more info http://www.zr2usa.com/mboard/index.php?showtopic=56163&hl=. basically i see that the csefi on this truck is prone to failure with the poppet style injectors and ive seen a lot of info on upgrading to either the mpfi or a marine intake. im really clueless as to how the marine intake functions. ive been reading jtdereks/wannabirdins thread on install but i still dont understand exacly what is going on. basically from the info ive gathered thanks to burnswhenIP its looking like ive got to replace my cat which i already knew, but now i need to start looking at my fuel system and i dont even know where to begin. cost of the mpfi and marine intake are both $300-$400 so thats where im coming from trying to figure out benefits of one over the other. my tuck is scheduled to be down within the next two weeks for a complete suspension rebuild, and now exhaust and fuel so any advice would be greatly appreciated as ive got to decide what to buy, have it shipped and install. thanks. ive got over 2k in parts waiting to be installed already and now im looking at close to another 1k in exhaust and intake/injection. i really dont have a lot of money to throw around so please advise. links and or part numbers would be awesome. i do a lot of shopping on amazon and rock auto but im open to ebay and other vendors.
  7. thanks for the detailed reply burns. after taking readings from my 3 02 sensors the 2 pre cat and the post cat are all pretty much identical. ranging from about .05v to .9v in a steady fluctuation (like a roller coaster). guess this confirms my cat is bad. now to decide how to fix it...options seem to be: -take it to a muffler shop -replace the cat myself -cut the cat out, put in straight pipe, and use a non fouler for the rear sensor and hope it works -replace the entire system from the manifolds back right now my exhaust is one solid welded piece, it seems the previous owner modified it when it was lifted. at the y pipe it was modified to go above my front driveshaft, and it is spliced from where i had to cut it and slip a sleeve over the cut and re weld from dropping the transmission. im leaning towards replacing the entire system because i would like it to be in 3 sections with bolt on flanges to accommodate removal for future repairs/modifications. plus my down pipes and a part near my muffler are crushed a bit, from what i dont know. previous accident? right now im looking into diy exhaust kits, prefabbed exhaust components, flanges etc. i really dont want to take the time bend all the tubing, so im leaning towards finding a y pipe, and buying a diy kit, modifying the y pipe and extending it back all the way. the kit im looking at comes with (4 of each) 4' sections, 180 bends, 90 bends, 45 bends. cutting and welding will be time consuming but i can only imagine what a shop would charge. this may be taboo but does anyone have an opinion on benefits of no cat? if i commit to doing this myself im looking at 2.5 id aluminized tubing. i want there to be proper back pressure, so im open to suggestions. also i dont think i want to run straight pipes, any ideas on mufflers? i dont mind loud, that would be good, i just dont want it to sound like shit. as far as the tune up i did, i removed the bosch plugs that were in my truck and replaced with ac delco platinum. the rotor, cap and wires were not ac delco...im thinking they were bsd, or whatever o'rielly's top of the line was. as far as converting the cpfi to mpfi do you say that because you assume my #5 injector is toast and while in there it'd be better to convert? ive been thinking about this modification anyhow, i think i found the mpfi online for about 2 or 3 hundred bucks. i dont think my scanner has the misfire moniter. but i can tell you when it happened i was in 3rd gear on an incline @3000 RPM, trying to maintain ~70MPH for roughly 3/4 of a mile, with a new roof rack that is creating some drag at highway speeds, so definitely a high load situation. what does that mean? Does that point towards fuel pressure? and lastly the cooling system is the last of my worries atm, but i will plug in my scanner to see the actual temperature today. ive got a new fan clutch waiting to be installed so maybe that will help. i will also check the radiator hoses for temperature to touch. im sure its the original. no leaks. and when i drained my system recently i drained it from the radiator, flushed a few gallons of distilled water through until it was clear, then i removed the plug on the block but nothing came out, not a drop. at that point i filled with a roughly 50/50 ratio of dexcool and distilled water, erring on the side of caution and maybe slightly more dexcool than water. one last question. considering both these codes came up at exactly the same time, i assumed that the p0420 code or the cause of the code rather is most likely the cause of the misfire. any insight on that? it would just seem to be quite a coincidence that my cat finally threw a code and then a fuel injector. what sort of relation could be going on other than possibly too much back pressure causing the cylinder to overheat and a misfire?
  8. for what its worth i did a full tune up less than 5,000 miles ago. plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, coolant temp sensor. im thinking if my cat is the problem it seems like it could be the cause of my running so hot as well. i just drained and somewhat flushed my cooling system less than 2,000 miles ago and refilled with dexcool. although ive yet to install a replacement lower fan shroud, or the fan clutch. that could also have an effect on cooling i suppose. not to mention all the grime (oil, trans fluid) coating the front of my radiator. fuck.i havent checked or replaced the egr valve either. guess ill start with pulling the #5 spark plug and see what it looks like. any way to safely clean the front of the rad fins? i should probably just replace it, but ive spent so much money on this truck lately. ive ran across some info on 160 thermostats, dunno how that/if it could help me. off to study.
  9. will be researching these codes tonight to try and find the problem. p305 misfire of the #5 cylinder. p0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1. this happened on my commute home from work this evening, the SES light came on and flashed a few times. ive also noticed with the warmer weather (90F) my temp is usually @ or just below the 210 mark by the end of my 35 mile commute. i know my cat is probably shot, it rattles and shakes and makes a horrible nose mostly at idle. im thinking that may be the culprit. thinking the p305 was caused by whatever the p0420 is. after minimal research on my may home i saw the possibility of o2 sensors and fuel pressure. any advice of where to start would be greatly appreciated. ive got an obd2 reader that will show live data and all that i just dont know exactly how to decipher all the readouts, or know what they should be. ive been questioning my fuel pump lately as well, it whines pretty loud. any tips or links pointing in the right direction for acceptable readings would be awesome. i really need to learn how to use this scan tool properly. thanks guys.
  10. For sure. Thanks
  11. Yeah i used a clone of the synergy hidden winch mount. Clearance for the filter on the block relative to my front driveshaft/ y pipe isn't an issue with my lift i measured about 8 inches vertically, conservatively. I dont like the filter and lines being right there either. They're so close to the fan blades as well, a few years ago my fan blades contaced the aluminum cooler line and obviously i had to replace both. the pictures of the canton sandwich adapter have me leaning away from it as it seems to have a threaded insert and i dont see how that would work with the gm part #14081300. Although the flexalite one i listed second seems to be compatible, the cooler line diameters arent listed on summits website so i need to make a phone call i think. What about heat generation without an oil cooler? Any thoughs? Also if i keep the oil cooler i need to research how to put some jic fittings on braided line, because fuck hose clamps.
  12. that makes sense. i think it was a ramsey rep 8 after looking back at jigg's original thread, and looks like he had to relocate his filer as well...should've done my homework lol.
  13. i've read several threads on this topic including 6speedblazers. but i wanted to get your guys opinion on the pros/cons on deleting the oil cooler...i think i read of at least on person doing this and losing oil pressure. i saw a sandwich adapter to be able to run my own lines here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-22-547/ on 6speed's thread and another one for about half the price here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-3962/overview/year/2000/make/chevrolet/model/blazer. i need to move the filter and lines due to a winch install. just purchased GM part # 14081300 to relocate the filter to the block. what do you think? anyone running a similar set up?
  14. finally mounted my 12k winch. i bought a synergy hidden winch mount off craigslist a while back on a whim, ended up cloning it at my shop, with 1/4" steel, instead of 3/16". if i wasn't so impulsive i would have mounted everything up with the original mount and made modifications at that point, but that's what i get for jumping the gun. it all mounted up just fine, although the 8 mounting points are oversized a bit much for me. 3/8" bolts, 9/16" holes...i guess better safe than sorry from a manufacturer's point of view. i also noticed when cloning, the 10" x 4.5" mounting points for the winch were off center, but figured it would work out. with my particular winch, the spool is off center slightly, maybe 1/4"- 3/4'' nothing to worry about, it wont affect the operation, but i plan to correct this. of course i had to trim the bumper mount brackets coming off the frame rails, if i remember correctly the stock width between the two is about 20" and my winch measures about 21 1/2". i knew that was necessary. next i guess i should've realized the winch wouldn't sit level being mounted to the bottom of the frame rails, it sits at about 15 degrees. also i know this is made to be "hidden" behind the plastic valiance below the bumper, but i opted to scrap the valiance all together in this application. i also had to modify/cut the lower section of the steel bumper for clearance and access to the clutch engagement and remote plug. in addition i had to rotate my solenoid assembly 180 degrees, which worked out better anyhow, as now the clutch disengagement/engagement lever, and my remote plug are on both on the drivers side. the last issue i ran into is how this mount interferes with the oil cooler lines on the stock remote oil filter housing. if your spool isn't perfectly wound, you're going to eat through your cooler lines immediately. there's about 1/2" between a perfectly tightly wound spool and the lines as you can see. and in testing the winch, by simply disengaging the clutch and releasing about 2 feet of wire rope and spooling back in i had contact between the two. i plan to address both the angle of the mount, and the clearance from the stock filter housing in my next fabrication. i was already planning to delete the remote oil filter on my rig, and putting it straight on the block anyways so no big deal. and here's some pics on routing the wire's, fitting the bumper etc. i just bought a new side post battery a few months ago, wish i had gone with a top mount, but i made the stock battery work. i had to delete the boots on the ends of the wires, and delete the stock bolts to battery because they weren't long enough to accept the winch cable terminals. i ended up having some extra 3/8" bolts and it was just a matter of finding the right combination of washers and a nut to create a solid snug connection. you can see where i had to trim the bumper mount brackets, and how i insulated the winch to battery cables with some hose i had laying around. i plan to do the big 3 here soon with this extra cable i have from engo. my solenoid assembly box was cracked during shipping, and i contacted them, told them the problem and instead of sending just a new box, they sent a complete assembly. so i've got spare solenoids, wiring, couplers, mounts etc. i know this is a bit "jerry rigged" but all in all i feel good about how its set up for the time being. and lastly a couple pics of how i trimmed the stock bumper to allow clearance for the winch and access to both the clutch and remote plug. you can't tell unless you're under the truck looking up.
  15. I cant speak to the quality as of yet but after researching springs, i plan to go with general spring of kansas city. Decently priced and shipped. They can customize them to your needs as well. Id give them a call and see what they could do as far has beefing them up a bit for hauling / towing.