Subscribed ZR2 Owner
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About Russmerle

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    United States
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    Chevy S10
  1. I've installed the '02 ZR2 door panels I picked up about a year ago into my '96 ZR2. The door panels lined up great and the pins/clips lined up perfectly too. The only difference os the '02 has one extra. The two bolts at the door arm rest/handle are definitely different though. The '96 jets out like an "L" as the bolts drive down through the top where as the '02 has bolt the bolt directly into the door at an upward angle from the bottom of the door arm rest/handle. You have to bend the "L" up and out of the way for the '02 panels to fit flush. The only thing I have to complete now it drive a bolt through the new panel into the door (where it would be done on the '02). I'll just use a short self tapping screw. The panels are very secure right now but that bolt will be necessary to ensure long time use and durability. I've also got to trim the '02 door handle inserts to fit the '96 door latch... You will also notice I had to use the slightly oversized window and lock controls portion from the '96 since the '02 panels didn't come with them. I bought the panels and seats for $50 so I can deal with it. They are securely mounted so I'm not upset. Even with that, these panels are a lot better than the torn up ones I had in there before. One thing to seriously note; the dome light switch does not contact the new door panel due to the slightly thinner profile in the '02 panel. I have disconnected it for now since the dome light will stay on with door shut but I'm going to extend the switch plunger nub as soon as I get to it.
  2. No problem. It seems like very little in the way of hardware has changed between the 96 and 02 era trucks. I just installed the 02 door panels and all but one clip lined up and the door panel was perfect fit. The 02 just has one more clip than the 96. The int door handle and lock is different story though. I'm going to have to fab a little to complete it but it seems to line up very well.
  3. Ok so I think I've fixed it... I was fiddling with all the lights in the truck interior and found the visor vanity mirror lights would flicker on and off when fiddled with. The light would turn on and off at random and further investigation proved the round switch that contacts the visor lid was bad. I removed the visor lid vanity mirror switch, lights and even cardboard/cloth. Not knowing if it would be the fix; I let her sit over the week we went on vacation. The truck started right up after 6 days of sitting... Sooo.... I am hopeful that I've got the problem licked. I guess sometimes it's the simplest solutions to the seemingly larger problems. Cheers!!!
  4. Me and a buddy removed the bed and painted the frame with Chassis Saver yesterday. If you're wondering what that is in my hands it's the blower portion from my shop vac. I don't have a compressor so I had to blow the dust and rust off with it. We scraped off a bunch of rust... So much it worries me lol I also ordered a new gas tank, fuel sending unit, tank straps, and fuel tank filler neck from rock auto for $320 total. The tank was so rusted on top that you could smell gasoline fumes permeating the rust. After a little scraping we found it was dangerously thin and possibly went all the way through. Atleast we know what the fuel smell has been all this time. Lol I guess that's a new project for another day. :/
  5. Ok... Dropping the bomb. A buddy and I put the multimeter in series to identify the current draw while truck is off. With the meter completing the circuit, there was no readable current draw with the truck turned off and keys out of the ignition. I'm guessing the ECM has such little draw it's not readable with the meter (10 ma maybe)... We used two different meters and unplugged the hood light since it would be drawing current while connected. We then plugged the hood light back in and performed same test and had a 4 amp draw so we know we were set up correctly... The truck is still dying as it sits over night/two nights... The only possibility i am thinking is it's a circuit that doesn't go into sleep mode while turned off spiratically... Any thoughts?
  6. The only ground for me was the rear light wire harness. It may be easiest to cut the ground then use but connectors to fix it due to the bolt being possibly rusted (that's what I did). The wiring in the rear was toughest since the brake lights need to be removed and the bulb/wires hae to be fed through and down. Very easy but timely is all. The light wirog harness will then hang from frame and you should be set. I believe there are 8 body bolts and the only difficult one is above tank. The ground for rule pump should be on frame somewhere so u shouldn't have issues.
  7. Thx Philly! I actually recommend the chassis saver paint... If you prep the metal and use a brush is dries like acrylic but is very strong. Some of my pictures have the results of painting under the bed. This stuff was also on the show "Trucks".... He used it on straight rust since it can be painted directly over rust. I like it.
  8. It's nearly a year later Sabbotage, but I finally installed those seats I bought. They fit great and I didn't even have to fab them in. Thx again man.
  9. What would be an alarming current draw for the ECM?
  10. I'll get to that on Friday I'm on site this week. Last time I did that it turned out to be the ECM fuse. I replaced the ignition but guess that wasn't it... Will report back Friday with results. Thx for help
  11. All, I wa wondering if you could share your electrical short issues on here. I am currently experiencing a slow draw on the battery that will drain the battery overnight. I thought it was ignition modual so I replaced that. It's still draining the battery so now I've got to dig a bit deaper. Part of me thinks it's the ignition "lock" since it is kind of loose... And it's got a bit of wiggle without key inserted... But now I'm just looking for your experiences and fixes short story/abbreviated style. Thx for all ur help guys. Russ
  12. I still have a short somewhere that keeps draining the battery... I replaced the ignition module so not sure what it is. Gonna trouble shoot after this weeks work trip...
  13. I finally installed the seats I bought from a member here some time last year... I'm happy to say et his 2002 ZR2 seats fit my 1996 without any modifications! All I had to do was remove the seat belt mount on cab floor and use that as the forth mount. Check it out! Now the question is do I reinstall the center console or leave it out for the extra room?
  14. Installed the bed I picked up last year... Still have to paint frame with chassis saver but had an offer for help and took him up on it. Also installed shocks.
  15. Installed new ignition module and fixed broken steering column covers. Instead of buying $300 covers I just zip tied them together in locations you can't see. It actually worked pretty well and looks good. The ignition swap fixed the short too. So now I can concentrate on cosmetics; like installing the new seats finally... New ignition module: Old ignition module: Zip tie fix: