rczr2

Subscribed ZR2 Owner
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    709
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About rczr2

  • Birthday 05/22/1988

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chattanooga, TN

Previous Fields

  • Name:
    Ryan
  • Country
    United States
  • State or Providence:
    Tennessee
  • ZR2 Year:
    1998
  • ZR2 Color:
    Black
  • ZR2 Model:
    Chevy S10
  1. i've got a bravada shaft and tube as well as a 231 short console. Check in the drive-train / interior classified sections for more details.
  2. 231 short console for sale. Overall great shape. Has a couple of white specs on the front passenger side, but will likely come off with a little cleaning. I do not have the rubber insert for the change holder. Looks like the rear 2 clips are missing on the underside. $100 shipped. PM me here or email me at rcasteel88@gmail.com I'm rarely on here any more so email might be better.
  3. Bravada shaft and tube for sale. Shaft already has one of the Clips removed as required for install. Tube has a fresh coat of paint. $100+$15 shipping. PM me here or Email me at rcasteel88@gmail.com I'm rarely ever on here anymore.
  4. Never mind! found one on ebay...
  5. Looking to get a bravada shaft and tube pretty quickly. i believe the going rate is $100 + shipping so i'll be willing to pay that. Shipping will be to 37302
  6. i'm a little late to the party but FWIW i have the RC 2.5 inch lift and a 231 swap. I noticed the change in pinion angle as well, but have absolutely no vibration from my front shaft. If i were you i would have just gotten another shaft before i went through the trouble of changing the whole diff. i also have one of the short-auto consoles that i would consider selling if someone here needs it.
  7. any details on waht you'll be doing to beef up the drivetrain to handle all that powah?
  8. This sounds familiar. A big enough Aux cooler will give you the piece of mind your looking for. I would leave it through the rad and just upgrade to a cooler with fan. I've got mine on a stand alone now and it works great, but i haven't been through a winter with it yet. I may have to end up putting it back through the rad in the end. A bigger radiator might get you what you want for your engine temps, but don't spring for anything thicker than a 2 row. Try to keep that nice fan to pulley clearance you've got going. The thicker rads are difficult to move air through and less clearance on the back side will increase your chances of air stacking. I'm still planning on taking a page from your book and doing an Aux radiator next spring. I'm thinking an ATV Rad in the same location you've got yours or a small passenger car rad somewhere under the bed.
  9. that's another good point. when i did my piece together kit i spent the most time just gathering up hardware. At that time i was lucky enough to have a large fastener distributor right down the road that still offered over the counter sales. without that place i probably would have had to order online and spend more $$$
  10. agreed that the crank should be polished. slap that bad boy back together and hit the trails.... and by that i mean take your time and do it right so you can enjoy not working on it again.
  11. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en
  12. fiberglass or sawzall.... take your pick!
  13. You know you can get individual body lift blocks for $3.00 from ebay right? i've ordered various assortments to use for random things other than lifts as well. if you couldn't get a 2.5 inch you can always get a 3 and cut it down. Steel blocks will eventually "win" against whatever surface they're touching in a bouncy truck. Meaning you'll be creating opportunities for rust on some pretty critical joints that weren't there before. I'm not saying it won't work, but to properly maintain that setup to avoid the failure modes inherent to the design will be more of a pain in the long run. If it were me, i'd be checking the blocks and the mounts every 3 months and repainting to prevent corrosion. Blah. Just buy some blocks... IMO. Brackets on these truck aren't that bad. I did my 2" body lift on the cheap because i found some blocks in the junkyard. The only brackets i ended up making were for the front bumper, the fan shroud, and a few ground extensions, I was able to coax my fuel filler tube into working without extending and i was able to get my battery cables to reach by the skin of their teeth. (i've extended them since though)
  14. The taller tires will set your RPM's down nicely on the interstate although my personal opinion is that a 36" tire is too tall for 4.10's and will leave your transmission hunting for the right gear. The 31's with 4.10's will keep you close to a factory rpm on the interstate. (i'm pretty sure some of the later year zr2's came with 4.10's from the factory). Just food for thought. above all else monitor your trans temp. If your hypertech won't read it then invest in the torque app or a dedicated gauge. Transmission temps like to creep up on the interstate and that's without pulling a load. I'd also recommend making sure you have lockup in 3rd gear before trying to pull a load that distance. If you have an 0411 PCM i would highly recommend adding in a tow haul button so that you can actually get into 4th gear when going above 70mph.