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  2. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    Thanks, Yup, I need to at the very least gather all the parts i need from junkyards before the winter starts. Off to the yard this weekend to find some exhaust flanges!
  3. Today
  4. I am just running a Gabriel steering stabilizer. Has worked fine for me. I don't like the super stiff units. Extra load on the power steering and makes for slower turning when speed is needed IMO. Keep in mind, with the RC lift comes longer travel of both front and rear, shocks are longer than stock. Stock shocks with this kit will end up being extended to their limits on full suspension droop. Just an FYI Stock Front Shocks Extended Length 16.625" Compressed Length 11.375" Stock Rear Shocks: Extended Length 25.250" Compressed Length 16.000" RC Shocks: Front shock is 19.7 extended and 12.4 compressed Rear shock is 26 extended and 15.5 compressed
  5. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    I wouldn't say that my Sandersons are garbage. I did have some issues with the collectors leaking, but that is because I was using the cheap paper gaskets (they were what the parts store had in stock the day I needed them). Since I switched to the nicer ones it has been fine.
  6. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    Nice work guys! Better keep moving, the snow will be flying in Michigan before to long!
  7. FS 2002 GMC Sonoma ZR2 SLS

    price: $6500 obo contact: esolvetec@gmail.com I'm the third owner who has kept it mostly stock no major accidents, clear title - adjustable polished aluminium rack, used for kayaks, canoe, long boards - will fit in 6'6" underground parking - original 4.3L V6 & automatic - Green, tinted glass - 174,000 mi - new wind-shield - sliding rear window - electric windows & heated mirrors - wireless electric locks - box liner, class-5 trailer hitch used as bike rack holder, no trailering ==- MAINTENANCE -===- replaced with NEW parts -= (in no particular order) -- 4 x new BFG AT KO2 31x10.5x15 tires (spare is best of old tires) -- fuel pump -- O2 sensor -- alternator upgrade to AD244 -- battery -- both headlight housings and bulbs -- both front calipers with pads & rotors, rear calipers with pads, rotors & parking brake shoes & cables -- custom 3rd door latch -- custom driver seat handle -- radiator, thermostat, cap -- serpentine belt -- front/rear bilstein gas shocks -- both front hub bearings -- all front steering components -- front wheel alignment -- both front upper / lower control arm bushings -- front alignment adjustment kits -- both front upper / lower ball joints -- front 4x4 control -- tailgate cables -- injectors with fuel pressure regulator -- intake gaskets -- Aurora 8.5 mm silicon spark plug wire set =- REGULAR change -= -- oil filter every season -- air filter every year -- distributor cap every year -- spark plugs as required -- antifreeze every two years =- NEW SPARE PARTS INCLUDED -= -- engine oil filters, trany filter & gasket -- other small parts I can't think of right now -- fuel filter, engine mounts, trany mount, rear axle seals =- existing issues to deal with: cab high stop light, ac comp clutch, it's time for a new distributor cap & rotor as well as antifreeze change, wet remote oil filter lines
  8. I bought mine in 2009 right after my son bought his and I had to have one as my ol' van cracked it's head. It's a good balance of power, speed and Zagility that makes it so much fun off road in the mountains looking for new lakes to fish and kayak. ZR2USA is my goto site for researching issues and seeing what others are doing with Z's, thanks to all who have contributed to Zknowledge. Here is my Zunique mod that I would like to share, it's quick, easy and inexpensive and has been working since 2009. (drill original handle cup and 17mm wrench for roll pin, cut and insert roll pin pieces to fit flush into socket and cup, drill seat boss for screw of choice)
  9. Yesterday
  10. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    got lucky and somehow the stock coils and brackets bolted up with just a fastener change on the last bolt/stud. used a regular bolt and it looks like it'll work fine new steering shaft made from just regular 1"DD technically clears the heat shield. with flex im sure there'll be some rub, but the heat shield should self clearance itself.
  11. Synergy hidden winch mount

    Still up for grabs
  12. Last week
  13. HELP fuel injector issue?

    I believe you can access the injector connectors from the top (where the large black harness is). Remove the plastic "lock" (basically a plastic stick holding the clip) and unclip the connector. Use a voltmeter with the resistance setting and measure across each injector coil. Record your values and compare to OEM specs. I may be able to look them up if you can't find them. Since you have a misfire on cylinder 6, pay close attention to what that value is. If a coil is internally shorted it will throw a code. If there is any problem with the wiring to that injector coil it will throw a code. There may be a weird situation where a wire or part of the coil is open (physically broken or separated) when cold. After you reach operating temp, the broken wire or coil may make contact again (since copper expands with heat). This may be why it runs normal after its heated up. This is all theoretical though. I have seen this in other situations (windshield wiper sprayers, etc). The fuel pressure test may rule out if you have a stuck/partially stuck poppet. While looking at the gauge (key on engine off) you should see pressure and it should hold for about 5 minutes (+/- a pound or two). If the pressure drops steadily then you MIGHT have a poppet stuck open. This problem sounds intermittent, so the fuel pressure test may not show anything if the poppets are closing normally at that moment. With the two codes you are getting something is obviously going on with cylinder 6, most likely electrical related to that injector circuit, which is causing the misfire. Not only perform those tests but look for the obvious annoying stuff like chaffed wires and looms, partially plugged connectors or maybe even pinched wires. You never know what the previous owner did or more importantly DIDN'T do correctly before you got it. Let us know what you find.
  14. Transfer Case Fill Plug Size

    Can anyone tell me what type and size of tool I will need to remove the transfer case fill plug? I think my transmission is leaking into transfer case and I want to make sure I have the right tool before I head home after work. Thanks!
  15. HELP fuel injector issue?

    No I haven’t done a fuel pressure test yet. It’s been a regular occurrence the past few days. It will miss until the motor is up to temp ~190 degrees then smooths out and runs perfectly fine. I wouldn’t think it would be a ground wire. Since it’s running like crap until operating temp would an injector coil be a likely cause? Is the coil(s) going to be on top of the intake or inside it with the actual injector? If fuel pressure was a problem would it not cut out at higher rpm’s? It has 215k miles and is a 5 speed and has a lot of power down low but doesn’t ever make much power or wants to go above 3k rpm’s though I’ve never been sure if that’s because of the manuel shift or the cat going bad. I’ll try and do the fuel pressure test and report back but the way it’s acting leads me to believe it’s either the injector or something affected by the fuel tables like possibly a coil?
  16. I have the auto track in my 00 Blazer. I always have it in 2wd when on the road. Only put it into 4wd when off road. Last week when I was in the woods, I popped it into 4wd, and any time I turn the wheel even slightly, I get a bad clunking sound. Sounds like teeth are slipping somewhere. To remedy the situation, I purchased and installed a posi-lok system. I know it would take away the option of auto 4wd, but I never used it anyway. Long story short, the problem still isn't fixed. When I engaged the 4wd and engage the posi-lok, I still get the bad clunking. Any idea what it could be? I'm at a loss now.
  17. Welcome. The stock shocks are best and can be found on Amazon and eBay. I have the Rancho steering stabilizer, it's pretty good but stiffer than stock. I know it's not part of the front suspension but you should replace your motor mounts with Energy Suspension urethane mounts. I broke 3 stock mounts and trashed the fan and lower shroud once because of it. I like the wheels. What are the specs on them?
  18. New and now completely obsessed ZR2 owner!

    Stock Bilstiens in the rear are great and last a long time, sometimes hard to get tho.
  19. HELP fuel injector issue?

    You could test the resistance of each injector coil with a volt meter. I don't know what the impedance (in ohms) is off the top of my head...but you could have an injector coil going bad. That may be the P0200 code you are getting. There could be other reasons like chaffed wires, broken wires, grounded wires in that harness, etc. How many miles do you have? If the cat is rattling...it should be replaced. Did you do the fuel pressure test? That would help with diagnosing a stuck/partially stuck injector poppet. It will also rule out the fuel pressure regulator. I had a poppet leak and only noticed after checking the fuel pressure.
  20. Ok idler arm is definitely on the list then! Is there any after market rear shocks that would be better? And should I buy the steering stabilizer that rough country suggests?
  21. Synergy Offroad website

    Been out of the s series game for awhile and was looking to get a Z and went to look up the website and now you can't order anything or even navigate the site...Did I miss something? What happened to it?
  22. LM4 swap, 04 Blazer ZR2

    i mocked up the 98-99 stamped SS camaro manifolds. the pass side is fine, it works, but the drivers side points pretty much straight at the front diff, plus it comes out wider so the steering shaft has no chance at fitting. no idea why this is the 'common' setup for s10s. Envoy manifolds it is! If i'm really lucky i can find a bolt-in y-pipe too, and get to retain the factory 3 bolt flanges. fingers crossed.
  23. FS: 2004 Blazer ZR2 (Pittsburgh, PA)

    I don't really drive it anymore, so it's mostly been sitting for over a year. The truck runs well, and I'd say it's in fair condition. It currently has around 89,000 miles on it, and it's located near Pittsburgh. Blue Book value is around $3000, but I'd consider any reasonable offers. Just wanted to see if there was an interested ZR2 lover on here before she goes to ebay. I'm trying to be as honest as I can about the truck, so here are a bunch of details: THE BAD - Rust. Major damage is a hole in the bottom of the right quarter panel. The shop said it'll cost $400 to weld in a patch panel & paint it. It'll pass PA inspection if you cover it with duct tape like I did. - Paint is chipped & weatherstripping is torn at part of the edge of the front door. - The 4x4 selector doesn't work - never got around to troubleshooting it, so I'm not sure what's wrong. - Lower control arm bushings squeak in the summer, so they need to be replaced. - I had a transmission cooler put in, but the lines were leaking, so it's disconnected. It just needs a longer hose. - Right rear tire has a slight leak that needs to be patched. - The switch in the center A/C vent doesn't work. THE GOOD - Everything not mentioned above works just fine, including the accessories & A/C. - Recent PA inspection/emissions stickers (expires 6/2018). - Class 3 hitch with trailer wiring. Extended tow mirrors & ball/mount are included. - Tires: LF 7/32, RF 8/32, LR 6/32, RR 8/32, Spare 11/32 - All front ball joints were replaced within the last 1000 miles or so. - Interior was professionally cleaned & detailed. - What can I say? It's a bright yellow ZR2. Lots of pictures here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uoj95tbmcqws7y7/AABKxkjKPFiOGoYFszfbL4r4a?dl=0 If you have any questions or are interested, please PM me here or email me at talon440@gmail.com
  24. First off, welcome! Nice find on a low mileage rig! Post up some pics! One of the best things you can do is the one ton idler arm. (Cost is around $300-$350) There are multiple threads on it in here. I'm pushing four years on mine now. The stock idler will be toast in 6 months or less depending on your driving habits and your off road use. The 2.5" RC lift is a nice little upgrade for some better upper arms and ball joints. I'm running it on mine. Don't expect a full 2.5" lift. I think most are seeing about 2" max on the Z's. Oh the shocks with the kit are ok. I've run the fronts and they have been ok, the rears on the pickups are to stiff so I run my stock bilsteins.
  25. Hydro Boost *How To*

    There is nothing special. Just bolt it up and run your lines. This is a super easy mod.
  26. Hello everyone! I'm happy to finally have a place to share my new found excitement with likeminded people! A few months ago I purchased a 2000 S10 ZR2 with 90,000 miles on it. Prior to making the purchase, I can honestly say I knew nothing of ZR2's. I was a fan( from a distance) of tacoma's but had never gotten into off-roading much. Luckily with Craigslist and good fortune I stumbled upon greatness! Now I'm hooked! Lol. I have ordered a 2.5 rough country lift and have maybe another 600$ or 700$ to spend. Is there any suggestions for what I should replace/upgrade while I have everything torn apart and on the lift? i will post some pictures in a few!
  27. Hydro Boost *How To*

    So.. I have a question. Is there anything special with the 2500 pump? Do I just unbolt the 4.3 pump and bolt in the 2500 pump? Here's what I have so far.
  28. WTB Synergy hidden winch mount

    One for sale in Phoenix. https://post.craigslist.org/k/NAmAYU-U5xGa1E0471MNjg?s=preview
  29. HELP fuel injector issue?

    Blazer was normal driving to work and leaving it was shaking like it might have been misfiring for a short period but it never threw a ses light at me. Noticed yesterday doing the seafoam just how loud my exhaust rattle has gotten and it's only getting worse. Anyone know if a plugged cat could be causing my problems or has the injector leaking led to a bad cat so I'm looking at even more money for a proper fix?
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