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  1. Today
  2. You don't have to crank the torsion bars to using the diff drop brackets but I would only recommend this is you are getting the whole kit and never planning on a real lift. Doing the diff drops bracket was a lot of hassle for the same cv angles as a 1-1.5 torsion crank while actually having your bars cranked 2-2.5 inches. If you have dreams of a 5 or 6 inch lift skip the rough country lift due to how involved it is for what little you gain.
  3. It's my understanding that the differential bracket improves the cv angles. Is this just when you have a lift kit installed or does it improve the angles on a stock setup also?
  4. I'm not aware of anyone tring it, but it's certainly an interesting idea!
  5. Ah, sry, I just kinda skimmed the thread and must have missed that.
  6. Assume I'm using the ORD kit from 4wdfactory. Do the "stock" wagoneer springs in an SOA setup move the axle forward? I do know if you "flip" them it moves it foward something like 1.5 to 2". What about in the non "flipped" position?
  7. Yesterday
  8. I tried searching and didn't see any really relevant posts on the subject, maybe it's just way off base and not worth even posting, but I was just wondering if the front Diff in/on pan dealy the TrailBlazer uses is applicable at all to a ZR2 LS swap? It's a tight little package that seems like you could just eliminate the front diff mount altogether. My understanding from the SyTy forums is that the ring and pinions will swap in, well appears 3.42 ratios and up will. It is also my understanding that except for the dry sump LSs a pan is a pan, so does this pan and that diff make for a trick swap? ...or is the cross-member in the wrong place to make this an option?
  9. I'd also suspect the ambient light sensor.
  10. My front bumper I built and had powder coated about 8 years ago. Have been told by a few people it looks like it could have came from the factory with it (non zr2 people). A little faded but still looks good.
  11. Yeah I said in my first post that was planned for later on. Can't afford to do everything I want to do to the Z right now so I have to be patient... which is hard. Doesn't look like I'll be working on it today possibly tomorrow night after I get back from taking my daughter to the zoo.
  12. I'd recommend the 1 Ton idler arm adapter to go along with this. http://www.outfitterdesign.com/1-ton-idler-arm-bracket.html
  13. Nice truck Perazzi!
  14. Today I dropped the lower CA's and pulled the cv shafts and diff. Then cut the diff and put the new bracket on and reinstalled the diff. Dropping that differential was the single most aggravating thing I've done in years. Tried to save myself some work by not dropping the steering linkage but I was a fool. It would have saved me at least an hour and a lot of grief. I also bent the lower bracket out of the way and bending it back without a way to heat it up was tough. Ended have a buddy come over to help me get it back in. I honestly think it's impossible for an average to do that alone. Of course had i dropped the steering it would have been a lot easier. Didn't take any pics and I'm sorry but I was pissed off for 5 hours straight at that thing. I'm probably 7-8 hours total in on this already and still have about 2 more to go on the front no idea how much trouble I will have with the back. I'm not getting in a hurry though either and trying to take my time and not make any mistake or break anything. Have to to pick up new bands to hold the cv boots on before I go any further and clean up the seating area on the boots and axles. Then I'll finally to get put all the shiny new parts on.
  15. Last week
  16. If the headlights are working manually, all fuses and relays are good. You need to check the ambient light sensor in the passenger speaker grill on the dash. Or it could be a problem with the body control module.
  17. No worries, good to be sure.
  18. Add a leafs came in today they are longer than I thought they would be which is a pleasant surprise. Looks like I should be able to put them right under the main leaf. Also picked up a 36 mm socket, some locktite, and new sway bar end links. Hopefully going to be able to start working on it again in a few hours. pic of the leaves
  19. Ok cool thanks a million was just nervous didnt think you where wrong or anything..just needed that re assurance lol...thanks again!
  20. Kind of related and unrelated to the topic, but recently my AHL just stopped working and now have to use the switch manually to turn on and off lights. Not that I am too lazy to do this, but after a decade or so of the lights just coming on when it gets dark you kinda get out of the habit. Anyway, is this on a separate circuit somewhere? I when through the inside fuses in the drivers side dash and pulled anything that was labeled as something that might be related and nothing was blown. I didn't look through the under hood ones yet, but I figured I'd ask if anyone has had this suddenly stop working like this?
  21. Yes, just plan on swapping all of your sensors, distributor, accessories and brackets, etc.... Look in your glovebox for the engine RPO code, for 03 it should be LU3 but could be LG3, the only real difference is the improved injectors, which you now have installed in your blown motor and the LU3 had the "quiet cam" in it. Same lift specs and all, just profiled differently to keep the lifters in contact with the cam during ramp down. 2002 saw major changes to the 4.3L fuel-injection system. For 2002 California emission Chevrolet Astros, GMC Safaris, Chevrolet Silverados and GMC Sierras (This includes S10's) all came equipped with the updated LU3 4.3L. 2003 saw the L35 discontinued and the LU3 replacing it in all other applications. A new variation was also introduced in 2003, the LG3. For 2004 to 2009 the LU3 has been the only 4.3L produced. The biggest change to the LU3 and LG3 was the fuel-injection system. These engines used a multipoint fuel-injection system, with six Multec II fuel injectors mounted at each intake port on the manifold. The composite upper intake manifold and cast aluminum lower intake from the L35 engine is also used on the LU3. The LG3 uses a cast aluminum upper intake and a cast iron lower intake.[6] The LU3 also received a quiet cam to help reduce vibration at both idle and high engine speeds. This camshaft used the same lift and duration as the older design, but the cam was reprofiled to keep the valve lifters in full contact with the cam lobes as the cam ramps down.[6] The LG3 was used in Chevrolet and GMC S-series pickups and was only produced for 2003. The LU3 was used in the Chevrolet and GMC full-size trucks and vans, the Chevrolet Astro and GMC Safari vans and the Chevrolet S-10 Blazer and GMC S-15 Jimmy. The LG3 was rated at 180 hp (130 kW) and 245 lb·ft (332 N·m) of torque. The LU3 was rated at 190-200 hp and 250–260 lb·ft of torque. Year Horsepower Torque Fuel System Compression Ratio RPO Applications 2003 180 hp (130 kW) at 4,400 rpm 245 lb·ft (332 N·m) at 2,800 rpm MPFI 9.2:1 LG3 5 2003–2005 190 hp (140 kW) at 4,400 rpm 250 lb·ft (339 N·m) at 2,800 rpm MPFI 9.2:1 LU3 3,4,6 2002–2003 200 hp (150 kW) at 4,400 rpm 250 lb·ft (339 N·m) at 2,800 rpm MPFI 9.2:1 LU3 2 2002–2003 200 hp (150 kW) at 4,600 rpm 260 lb·ft (353 N·m) at 2,800 rpm MPFI 9.2:1 LU3 1 2004–2009 195 hp (145 kW) at 4,600 rpm 260 lb·ft (353 N·m) at 2,800 rpm MPFI 9.2:1 LU3 1,2
  22. Thanks for the welcoming words. Since I don't actually have a ZR2 yet here's some pics of some of my rides, the Suburban is in Japan now, the Sonoma is what I drive now, and the render of the Jimmy project concept: -Ken
  23. So im getting ready to get that 4.3 from the 99 or 98 Silverado... Are we super sure it will work?
  24. Welcome to the site Kevin!
  25. I have a 2001 four door jimmy that I am going to do a 5speed/manual transfercase swap in. My question is can I use the clutch pedal and bolt out of the donor truck(96 ZR2) or do I have to get one of the pedals that has the spring loaded pins in it like from a 98 & newer truck with a 5speed?
  26. Thanks for the info Jderek I'll have to put those on my list. Went ahead and started the lift tonight but had to stop because I don't have a 35 mm socket. Going to try and pick one up tomorrow along with some locktite. Got the old shocks and control arms out so far and spray painted the frame. Looks decent for not being able to wire wheel it. Torsion bars have been out before I think because they had grease on them and I slid them by hand to get the keys out. My sway bar end links bolts bolts were seized together. Some one had tried to remove them before because the nuts were gone off both sides. I ended up having to use a sawzall to cut them off. Starting measurements from fender to floor were 36" on both front fenders and drivers rear was 35" and pass side 34.5" hopefully the misses will let me work on tomorrow for a few hours and I can get the front lift all done. Reading all the horror stories about replacing shackles is making me nervous about doing the rear. Also never have done shackles or an add a leaf before only blocks so it will be a learning curve at first.
  27. For the curious, this is the Jimmy build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=570856
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